AMAR GROVER – A Journey Through Southern Morocco
The first speaker of FebruaryÂ’s meeting was Amar Grover. Amar is a London-based travel writer and photographer. He first took us across the High Atlas mountains south of Marrakech, reminding us that even in the late 19th century Morocco was said to be as unknown as Tibet. At this time, some of the High Atlas passes were controlled by the Glaoui clan, one of whom was eventually appointed Pasha of Marrakech. At independence in 1956, the despised Glaoui family lost all power but their crumbling kasbah, or palace, at Telouet remains open to the public. Sadly, it is gradually decaying, so go soon! We then travelled down via the GlaouiÂ’s ancient salt mines and through the Ounila Valley to Tamdacht village whose Glaoui kasbah is still occupied by former staff (slaves) of the Glaoui. The Ounila Valley is a two-day walk or a dayÂ’s 4WD drive mostly along riverside ledges with wonderful views of the bare mountains, several villages and their lush oases of almond and olive trees. The UNESCO-listed kasbahs of Ait Benhaddou Â- a popular film location (think Gladiator, Jesus of Nazareth) Â- was the next stop before we cut across into the Anti-Atlas range towards Tafraoute to see some of its Berber fortress granaries honeycombed with courtyards and small chambers. Traditionally they provided individual storage facilities for families to guard against famine, and even provided refuge in times of strife. Few remain intact, and the best-preserved are still locked and looked after by a guardian. However, donÂ’t let that put you off – for a small fee, you can often enter these fascinating structures.
For more information and to view some of AmarÂ’s stunning photographs visit his website at www.pictographical.co.uk. The forthcoming edition of Travel Africa Magazine (www.travelafricamag.com) will contain a feature by Amar on the Glaoui.
PETER OVERTON Biosearch Expeditions to Malawi
Our second speaker was Peter Overton. Peter described his experiences of camping and trekking on the steep escarpments and high plateau of the Nyika National Park. The park extends over 3134 km2 and is part of MalawiÂ’s largest and most remote National Park. It is an area that is so inaccessible it is void of all tourists, so you really can get away fro it all! Peter is the Project Director Biosearch Expeditions. He first explored this region in 1972 as part of the Wye College Nyika expedition and loved it so much that he wanted to find a way to go back there each year and, at the same time, to support this special region. He has now organised 14 Biosearch Expeditions to the Nyika National Park where he takes groups of volunteers to live in this wilderness for a month at a time. The research directly assists the Parks Authority with their wildlife surveys, biodiversity research and protection of the game.
The terrain is varied with low lying wet season marshland at around 1000 m to over 2600m at the highest point. Guest trek and track wildlife with the support of game scouts; learning and sharing their skills. Everyone gets expedition training prior to departure and you become Â’part of the familyÂ’ when you return. This involves Peter opening up his farm in Lincolnshire once or twice a year for reunions, speaker events and camping weekends. Globetrotters may like to get a flavour for the expeditions by joining the next training weekend on 2nd-4th May in preparation for this yearÂ’s expedition, starting on 26th July. Please get in touch with him if you are interested – http://www.biosearch.org.uk/index.htm