One of the best ways to discover some of the many views of and from this well known corner of north London can be located by heading up Highgate Hill, at the Archway junction of the A1. Since living in the area, I've completed this route many times and found whether I travel by foot, bus, car or wearily push my cycle up the steep incline that l always seem to see something different on my journey. A bonus to this journey is if it can be made at the beginning of an August's summer day…

My first thought is that I am crossing a boundary – in that I am leaving behind the modern and the utilitarian accommodation of transient London and heading off into a very slowly changing but more permanently rooted era. An initial signpost of this change may well be the tall gothic spires and high roofs of the now renamed Archway Campus, which still seems rooted in its original purpose of providing medical care. Or take the caged Whittington Stone, complete with perched cat on the pavement just before the modern Whittington Hospital, as a signpost. The statue itself is but a small 1935 tribute to commemorate the mayoral achievements of one Richard Whittington, but it talks of a shared history for London.

At the junction with Dartmouth Road, it could be said that apart from the volume and nature of road traffic nowadays, much of the surroundings are as they were at the turn of the 20th century, when London swallowed up villages like Highgate during its' suburban expansion. St Joseph's Roman Catholic Church and Retreat proudly stands on its 1888 roots and marks a good point to catch your breath and look back across London down towards the Millennium Dome and the southern cityscape. Cathedral in posture, its copper domes tower above the nearby Old Crown and the now defunct Presbyterian Church on Cromwell Avenue. From neighbours who have a longer association with the area I have heard stories of horses, their carriages and their drivers heading down the hill in unconventional styles, as their wheels and legs attempt to work their way across this busy crossing during snow and ice.

Along from St Joseph's is another landmark from that different era, Lauderdale House, which was renovated in 1893 to become a council operated venue. Nowadays it is a popular location for well attended weddings, craft fairs and views out across Waterlow Park – whilst the coffee could be better its' less busy nature is a welcome contrast. Facing Lauderdale is the imposing Northgate House with is walls struggling to support a large number of windows and the Ghana High Commission with its roof top cupola, arching lines and gated entrance.

The Channing Schools and the art deco Cholmeley Lodge welcome visitors into Highgate village proper and the high street. Local shops and businesses seem to stand their own corner against the undeservedly well located chain restaurants and ubiquitous estate agents !

Highgate becomes one of those weekend destinations that creaks at the seams during the Kenwood season or as people enjoy a summer day. One of my favourite aspects is that the 210 allows me to alight from the bus and almost walk directly through the front door of The Prince of Wales and to a very good pint, whatever the choice ! Other local recommendations include the frustratingly organised Highgate Bookshop, the Village Bistro and the precariously perched stall of Village Flowers.

To extend the search for views turn left into Hampstead Lane and proceed past the always green playing field of Highgate School and its' numerous red brick buildings. Once passed the faded blue sign of the mysterious Highgate Golf Club, you find yourself walking along under broad leaf trees to the entrances of The Iveagh Bequest at Kenwood – however rather than enter through the popular stables entrance, head towards the main gate. I found the simple pleasure of walking down the sweeping drive, towards the front of Kenwood House immensely appealing. This neo-classical house, remodelled during the 1760s to include an archetypal, stately frontage, was home to the 1st Earl of Mansfield…however it his heir, the 2nd Earl, that is to be thanked for commissioning Humphrey Repton's widely enjoyed landscaped garden. This pleasant perimeter of Hampstead Heath makes for a perfect spot from which to explore the 37 odd ponds, Parliament Hill and many superb vistas of the cities of London and Westminster. Depending on the day's clarity, attempt to locate Canary Wharf, the ever majestic St Paul's, the London Eye and the Telecomm Tower at the very least ! And remember that in spite of busy periods, the main Kenwood House makes itself available for excellent afternoon teas…

To prolong your pleasure, avoid the exclusive, brash wealth of the gated Compton, Courtenay and Bishops' avenues and follow Hampstead Lane further round the heath towards the still splendid Spaniards Inn and beyond towards Hampstead itself. For those that wish to return down back down the hill, the 210 can be caught from almost outside the main house and a pleasant journey can be drawn to a close in an unhurried manner !

Matthew is happy to be contacted by email chair@globetrotters.co.uk or at the monthly London meetings.

British Columbia, Canada's westernmost province, is located on the Pacific Coast. It is Canada's third largest province comprising 9.5 percent of the country's total land area. The province is nearly four times the size of Great Britain and larger than any American state except Alaska.

Geography

British Columbia, Canada's westernmost province, is located on the Pacific Coast. It is Canada's third largest province comprising 9.5 percent of the country's total land area. The province is nearly four times the size of Great Britain and larger than any American state except Alaska. The population in 2001 was 4.1 million people with well over half living in the Vancouver/Victoria metropolitan area. From south to north, B.C. stretches 1,200 kilometres and as much as 1,050 kilometres east to west. It's glaciated fjord and island-dotted coastline extends some 7,000 kilometres.

British Columbia, renown for it's spectacular mountains landscapes, has four distinct regions: the Coast Mountain Granite Complex in the west, the Rocky, Percell, Selkirk, Monashee and other sedimentary and volcanic ranges from the eastern border, an extensive Interior Plateau and a lowland segment of the continent's Great Plains in the northeast.

The province is blessed with 1.8 million hectares of clean waterways in the form of rivers, lakes and streams. The combination of mountains and plentiful precipitation provides the province with abundant clean hydroelectricity for its homes and factories.

Climate

The highly varied terrain produces a full range of climate from regional temperate and coastal rainforests to alpine and desert climates. The southern interior has the province's driest and warmest climate with Canada's only defined desert with the area around Osoyoos receiving less the 10 inches of rain annually. Microclimates, rainshadows in the lee of some mountain ranges, permanent snowcap regions all result from the unique topography.

Environment

British Columbia has the richest variety of habitats in Canada including forests, grasslands, meadows, wetlands, rivers and inter-tidal and sub-tidal zones. They support the greatest diversity of plants and mammals found anywhere in Canada. In addition to their diversity, the populations of some species in B.C. have global significance. The province has 75 percent of the world's stone sheep, 60 percent of the mountain goats, 50 percent of the blue grouse, at least half of the trumpeter swans and 40 percent of the grizzly bears and the most bald eagles.

Services

The province hosts world class services ranging from the urban center of Vancouver and Victoria where over half the province's population live. Vancouverites enjoy one of the healthiest lifestyles in the world with outdoor activities ranging from year round sea kayaking, running, golf, tennis and even gardening. Skiing at the nearby world famous Whistler Resort or 4 local mountain resorts is a part of an active winter scene. The city has world class dining, shopping, nightlife and tours.

The interior hinterland of the province includes a full range of outstanding outdoor activity that the varied landscape can provide. Hunting, fishing, downhill and ski touring, hiking, riding..there is hardly and activity that can't be found in some terrain in the province. The medium sized centers such as Kelowna, Prince George and Prince Rupert carry many of the services of Vancouver including universities, hospitals and many other urban businesses.

Tourism

British Columbia's scenic attractions, combined with its clean, safe image, serve to make it an attractive destination for Canadian as well as international tourists. In addition, there are a wide variety of urban and cultural attractions, ranging from the performing and visual arts, to professional sports, amusement parks and shopping. Tourism is a major part of the provincial economy. During 2001, $9.2 billion was spent by 22 million overnight visitors.

British Columbia's national, provincial, regional and local parks provide a spectrum of natural beauty, breathtaking scenery and opportunities for outdoor enjoyment and recreation. The 807 protected areas (provincial parks, ecological reserves, recreation areas and other protected areas), covering 11.4 million hectares, are diverse in their features and facilities. There are 13,302 campsites, 487 day-use areas, 136 boat launch areas and 3,000 km of hiking trails within Provincial parks, that serve approximately 24 million park visitors each year. Nearly one-tenth of the province's parks are wilderness, largely untouched and accessed by back-packers and mountaineers. Inland and coastal waters are dotted with marine parks intended primarily for water-borne users.

The abundance and variety of wildlife in British Columbia reflect the great diversity of the province's environment. There are more species in total and more unique species of birds and mammals than in any other Canadian province. In British Columbia, the salt and fresh water

resources of the province provide both recreational and tourism opportunities for such activities as sport fishing, boating and sailing.

Imagine a holiday in a province where, no matter what your recreation passion, be it skiing in the summer, rock climbing, horseback riding, ocean fishing or reading a good book on the porch of a mountain cabin by a lake, British Columbia has it all…and more

Steve is a former corporate geologist with an extensive background in international remote terrain exploration. He is the President of GeoQwest, a company he started to provide informed travel through the spectacular wilderness landscapes of British Columbia. For more information about travel in British Colombia, contactSteve on: snoakes@okanagan.net or visit his website: www.geoqwestexcursions.com

In the first article I talked about the best ways to avoid getting bitten by mosquitoes and consequently how to avoid catching some of the many diseases they carry. Here we will look at a few of the most common and well known of those diseases and the consequences of not using your DEET based insect repellents and mossie nets properly.

Malaria

This is the one mosquito borne disease that eclipses all others. With up to 300 million cases of malaria reported each year it kills more people worldwide than any other disease. It is actually caused by a parasite that is injected into an individual along with some of the mosquito saliva, and from this initial point of invasion within minutes heads to the liver and sets up home where it develops over a period 7 days – 1 year. When its ready to leave the liver it may have reproduced into 40,000 parasites all ready to cause fever, illness and possibly death within a few days. Every year about a thousand travellers from the UK will get malaria, unfortunately a handful of who will become seriously ill or die. The initial effects of the disease are very similar to a mild viral infection, headache and general malaise, but it will rapidly move onto severe fever and chills, profuse sweating, diarrhoea, stomach pain and cough. At this point if it is not treated correctly it starts to get nasty. Many people are reluctant to take medications that can prevent malaria because of stories they have read about in the media, or something that happened to a friend of a friend. Those that have had malaria and recovered (which most people do) have described it to me as the worst case of flu that they have ever had and definitely not something that they would want to experience again, these people invariably take their tablets wholeheartedly and come back for more!

Dengue Fever

Whereas malaria is carried by a night time biting mosquito, dengue fever is transmitted by a daytime biting cousin. It is present in Asia, Africa and Central/South America. It frequently causes outbreaks in various countries but a fairly recent outbreak in Brazil was massive and present all along the Eastern coast, it resulted in thousands of cases including professional footballers and plenty of tourists and travellers. In otherwise healthy westerners it is rarely fatal but can be very serious and even the milder cases can be a very unpleasant experience. It is known in many places as ‘breakbone fever' because of the severe pain felt by sufferers, after about 4 days or so you often get a very fine rash followed shortly by a full recovery. If you happen to be a child, elderly, immunocompromised or just unlucky, the disease can move on to what is known as ‘dengue haemorrhagic fever' (DHF for short), this will generally happen if you have had dengue before and been careless enough to get it again. There is no vaccine against dengue fever at the moment although we are hopeful that there will be a good vaccine on the market very shortly. It is therefore important for an individual to reduce the number of mosquito bites received during the day as well as during the evening.

Note: Insect repellents should always be applied after sunscreens, and it's worth bearing in mind that DEET based insect repellents may reduce the effectiveness of your sunscreen.

Yellow Fever

This virus is carried by another type of daytime biting mosquito and is present across all of Sub Saharan Africa and a majority of South America. It is not currently found in any parts of Asia though the conditions are right, and therefore all Asian countries are doing their best to prevent its introduction. Unlike malaria, it is found in even the largest urban populations and apart from bite avoidance the best way to prevent catching yellow fever is to have the vaccine before exposure. The vaccine takes 10 days to become fully effective, but following this short period virtually 100% cover is achieved. When you are vaccinated you are given a little certificate that becomes your ‘yellow fever passport'. It is the presentation of this document that allows travel across borders in Africa, South America or travel to an area such as Asia when travelling from an infected country. The disease manifests itself initially as fever and jaundice (hence yellow fever), but again can move on to become haemorrhagic yellow fever for which there is no specific treatment except fluids to treat the shock and internal blood loss. Yellow fever can be fatal in almost 50% of non-vaccinated individuals during an outbreak, so that vaccine is well worth getting.

Japanese B Encephalitis

Although very rare amongst travellers it a potentially very serious disease present throughout Asia, although it occurs only very, very rarely in Japan. It is caused by a virus spread via the bite of an infected night time biting mosquito that breeds mainly in paddy fields. The most commonly infected animals are pigs and fowl – wading birds etc so in order to be in an area of risk you need paddy fields just around the corner and pigs at your feet. Actually quite a common sight in Asia but it also tends to have seasonal outbreaks especially at the end of the rainy season, for example around May in the southern areas of Nepal. If you think that you may be in these risk areas at high risk times there is a vaccination course available of two or three shots but you really should start this course a minimum of 38-40 days prior to travel.

For more information, visit the Nomad Travel web site: Nomad Travel or call the Travel Health Line: 0906 8633414 (calls cost 60p per min) to discuss your travel health queries with a medical.

Having decided that my hair was in desperate need of some care and attention, I decided to be brave and try to get my hair done. The word for hairdresser in Portuguese is Cabeleleiro (and no, I still can't pronounce it properly) and because of that I decided to do the coward's way and go to El Cortes Ingles where I thought I could wing it. Well after prowling ladies underwear twice (very glamorous and quite a lot of men wandering around!), I approached an assistant and managed to make myself understood and she directed me to a very smart hairdressing salon.

Well the interesting thing was that not one of them spoke English so I found one who spoke French and the rest was down to sign language and pointing at pictures in magazines (I knew that word at least but as for tint, cut etc forget it). There is no appointment system apparently in this country, you turn up and just wait. I got there around 4.00 and left at 8.00!

I decided I was sick of being my wonderful three shades of red as it had gone a very strange colour in the sun so thought I would go back to blonde. This was indicated to the staff by pointing at an assistant with what I thought was a nice shade of blonde streak! You are given the usual gown but you have a pocket on the arm into which they put what treatment you are having i.e. cut, colour, manicure, pedicure etc.

The backwash is very high tech; the chair has a series of buttons on the inside of the chair arm which allows you to raise the lower part of the chair so you are practically lying down. All the women are beautifully turned out as you would expect and as it was all a bit of an adventure, I decided to go the whole hog and had a pedicure and manicure as well. This is quite entertaining as the manicurist follows you around whilst you are having your hair washed, cut, coloured etc. All in all it was a great experience and my hair looked brilliant as well as my nails. Cost-wise it was on a par with where I used to go in Bath, but it was a high class department store.

Some other interesting things about the city are the fact that the metro system is small and very efficient. It is also amazingly clean and considering the seven months of hell I had using the District Line, someone from LT should take a look. You never seem to wait more than five minutes for one either. The trams are good fun. The No.28 is one that does a circular trip and is very handy if you are down in town with a heavy bag – Lisbon is made up of seven hills and I live on one of them! The fare is 1 Euro! I got stuck in a tram jam the other week which as amusing as it means that no cars can get by as trams have right of way. There were four No.28s in a row. Before I got on it, I heard one of the old dears waiting at the bus stop saying that she had seen four No. 28s go the other way and none hers – reminiscent of the London bus problem.

I never fail to be amazed as how silly some of the tourists are over their personal safety here. When I was wandering around Feira da Ladra (Thieves Market held every Saturday and Tuesday), you spot them with rucksacks or big bags on their backs and it is so easy for pickpockets to lift wallets and purses from them in crowds. Women in particular seem to lose all common sense – they wear totally inappropriate outfits and cause great amusement when you see them bright red and staggering around in shoes suitable for premieres rather than sightseeing. There again men who are follically challenged really ought to wear hats!

We went to the outskirts of Sintra (Lord Byron thought it was wonderful – gardens, palaces etc etc) with a friend who has a car and investigated a garden centre. Now this was interesting. There were the usual pots etc but the plants were fascinating. Large bougainvilleas, lemon trees, lime trees, climbing roses, herbs etc. Some plants were the same as in the UK and others were new to me. I settled for pots (60p for terracotta 23″ ones!), some herbs, a climbing rose, something called a plumbago and an amazing large lavender. Inside it has the usual candles, pot pourri, plastic flowers etc – it's run by an Englishman apparently. After we had finished there, my friend took us to Sintra to try a tearoom. Everything in the tearoom was for sale, from the plates to the pictures. It was a very eclectic mix and had that “I think we should whisper” atmosphere that you find in posh tearooms like Castle Combe! Anyway they do a mean cream tea, which consists of three scones (warm), jam and cream, a piece of cake and a tea of your choice – excellent! Afterwards, to walk it all off, we wandered around Sintra.

Sintra was where the Portuguese Royal Family used to escape to in height of the summer heat. There are some amazing houses/villas as well as palaces on the top of mountains and in the main square. One of the palaces, the Pena, you sometimes see on tourist posters – it looks like something mad King Ludwig of Bavaria would have built. It's all different designs and colours and quite spectacular to get to.

I have got involved with a local theatre group – The Lisbon Players – via my Portuguese teacher. She invited Derek and I to go to a workshop on Shakespeare's Measure for Measure. It was a very entertaining evening and by the time we left, I had been asked if I would like to get more involved with them. I have now been made Stage Manager for the production as well as Task Force Director to help them raise funds and gain a higher profile.

They operate out of a lovely old theatre – Estrela Hall – that originally used to belong to the British Hospital. It has a certain faded glamour (dust) and does quite a few productions each year. We start work on the production in the next two weeks and then I shall be thoroughly occupied most Sunday, Monday, Wednesday, Friday evenings with rehearsals all the way through to Christmas. Obviously it is unpaid but it means you meet new people, which is great. Shakespeare is very popular with the Portuguese and is on their education programmes so you get a good mix of audience.

Sally can be contacted by e-mail on: Sallypethybridge@aol.com should you wish to ask her any questions about Lisbon or Portugal in general.

I am an artist and one who, not surprisingly, is drawn (no pun intended) to the sun, the sea and a beautiful landscape. Now, obviously, you don't need to be an artist to appreciate those sorts of things. I, on the other hand, do like to make paintings of them and it is because of that I would like to speak of a group of islands that lie off the north coast of Sicily. They are called the Aeolian islands and there are seven of them, steeped in history and wound into the fabric of myth. That, as they say, is another story, for now I would like to explore briefly only two of the seven islands and the first of those is called Stomboli.

Arriving at a small jetty, a long beach of black volcanic sand stretches away to your right and the tangle of tiny streets of Stromboli village lie ahead. Jasmine and bougainvillaea ramble over the garden walls, the narrow lanes are lively with scooters and “ape” a type of tiny three wheeled truck. Walkers are there, kited out for the rocky paths to the volcano summit. Behind you the spiky outline of islets break the blue water.

It takes about an hour, walking along a pleasant road through fields, from the square in front of a pretty church, at the top of the village, to the lower slopes of the mountain. Another couple of hours on a steep but well-marked path brings you to the peak, 918 meters up and as you arrive the craters explode dramatically, shooting stones and hot ash high into the air. This happens every twenty minuets or so and it's quite safe as long as you stay on the paths, strong shoes are a good idea, the ground is hot. These regular explosions give rise to the term ” strombolic action ” which prevents pressure building up to a major eruption.

By day the view of the other islands is stunning. Particularly from the high ridge on the southern side. Night hikes with a guide, or a night boat trip to the north-eastern side of the island offer spectacular views of the red hot lava flows and fiery explosions.

From there you board the ferry and eventually arrive at Alicudi. On the map, if you've got one to hand, it is on the other end of the group, the most isolated and the next island that I would like to speak of. Uniquely car free, Alicudi is a near perfect cone, over six hundred meters high and only 2.5 kilometres across. The rugged slopes are covered with huge prickly pear cactus, gorse, carob, olive and wild apricot trees. Surprisingly, in times not long past, over a thousand people lived on this tiny island supporting themselves by growing their crops on narrow terraced fields.

Over the years that number has dwindled and the population is now only about one hundred and life is quiet. Mains electricity arrived no more than a decade ago and the major water supply is still rainfall, caught off roofs and collected in wells on the terrace of each house. It is charming and quaint.

Hawks and ravens wheel high above and bright green lizards dash away as you explore. The sea is very clean and rich with fish, shrimp and shellfish, and, so the locals tell me, ideal for snorkelling although I've never done it but, from the look of it, I could well imagine.

At night you can see the lights off Sicily's north coast, 20 kilometres away and on days when the haze has evaporated, about this time of year, the snow covered slopes of Mount Etna are visible, the black summit streaked with red lava. Colour seems to be the theme of these islands, it really is a painters paradise, so much so that you don't need to be a painter or an artist at all to appreciate it. The imagery around you is just so strong and peaceful at the same time, the countryside so unspoiled. It is just one of those places. I have painted in country that is beautiful to the eye but putting it down on paper can be very difficult. One finds ones self inventing, a bit of red here, a bit of yellow there, not because it's in front of your eyes but because the painting needs it and so you make it up. Alicudi and the other islands are not like that in the least, the place is there to paint. The hand runs riot along with the eye. To my mind, not only an easy place to paint but a pleasure and pure joy, if for nothing else but to just sit and look. A tiny little haven almost at the end of Europe.

Murray Hubick is Canadian, now living in Kent in the U.K. As an artist his time is divided between work in the studio, teaching art and as much travelling as possible. He is currently in the process of organising an art excursion to the islands for the coming Christmas/New year and would welcome anyone interested to join him in having an espresso overlooking the sea in the sun on New Years morning.

Murray is happy to answer any questions on Sicily, so please e-mail him on: murrayr@onetel.net.uk

The tourist season in Oslo starts around the middle of June and finishes in the middle of September. The 15^th of September, to be precise.

This means that going to Oslo in October is not such a great idea. The second mistake was not only visiting Oslo in October but also flying there with Ryanair. A very bad move as Ryanair lands in Torp, some 100km away from Oslo where there is only a Ryanair bus to take you the 2 hour journey into Oslo. Torp airport is small, very small, the size if Cork perhaps (another Ryanair destination in Ireland) and there is little to do when your flight is delayed or waiting for luggage. There is also little tourist info at Torp.

By October, Oslo is beginning to be cold. The first day of the Beetle weekend, temperatures were around 6^OC and the next day it snowed. If you don't do cold, this is not the time and place for you. Take a hat, gloves and a scarf, plus a warm coat and good walking shoes.

OK, what is there to see: well, the “attractions” consist mainly of walking around the town (it's small), seeing the royal palace, the university, the Parliament building, the town hall, visiting the Arkhus Castle, taking boat trips, (summer months only), and visiting the 20 or so museums, none of which have free entrance. That is Oslo in a nutshell. You will not want to eat, have coffee or go shopping – it is so prohibitively expensive! Also, the shops are closed on Sundays and the museums have shorter opening times so that after about 3pm, on a Sunday, in Oslo, there is very little to do – so book your return flight for the late afternoon!

Spending more than a weekend in Oslo might necessitate considering your finances, maybe a second mortgage: it is breathtakingly expensive – about 50- 100% more than central London prices!

The next mistake was to buy an Oslo card. The Beetle could only find one guidebook in the whole of Stamfords, (the most wonderful travel bookshop on this earth – funny, that …), but both the guidebook and the local literature, of which there was plenty (thanks goodness!) all said that we should buy an Oslo card and this would entitle us to free entrance to all of the museums and local transport.

A 2 day Oslo pass costs around £25 or $40 per person. This allows the holder free entrance into all Oslo museums and free transport around the city. As museum entrance only costs around £2.50 or $4, it became a challenge to visit as many museums as possible in order to get our money's worth! However, our vfm did not take into account public transport – when we added in the cost of a day ticket for the bus, train and tram, (£5 or $8) we just broke even.

The Kon-Tiki museum is disappointing: small, amateurish with bizarre exhibits including polystyrene sharks. Very odd. The Fram museum was one of the better ones: a small-ish A frame building, built around the original early 20^th century ship used by Amundson and others in voyages to Antartica. The Viking museum houses 3 10^th century long boats and even if you are a Viking buff, it'll take you about 20 minutes. The Museum if the Inquisition was plain upsetting. The Beetle's fave place was Viegland Park, a park a short tram ride out of town with a collection of sculptures and statues. The Oslo city museum was dire; about a third of the exhibits were labelled in Norwegian only! The ski Museum is one of the most expensive museums to get into – entrance fee around £7 or $11 but you get to go up to the top of the old Olympic ski jump. We had to go there to get value for money and also take in the views of the city!

The transport system is excellent, frequent, clean, modern and fast. There were many fast food outlets – Kentucky, Burger King, McDonalds – when you see the prices in the restaurants, you can start to understand why. Eat well at your hotel by stocking up on the buffet breakfasts is the Beetle's advice! The people were friendly enough, but compared to the last Beetle visit, an embarrassing 15 years ago, the city was surprisingly dirty, the walls had graffiti sprayed on, and there were a few people begging on the street – not at all the clean Scandinavian image the Beetle had imagined, but then it is a capital city and perhaps nowhere is exempt from these problems.

If you want to visit Oslo – go in the summer months! Then you can take boat trips and visit the fjords. For more info on Oslo, contact the Beetle on: Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk

It may be cheap (but not always), but it certainly isn't clever. And it definitely isn't funny! Flying Ryanair is not the fantastic low cost and cheerful option that it is made out to be. First, the low cost airlines (Ryanair, Buzz, and Easyjet/Go) have made Stansted their main hub.

Stansted is a major pain to get to and from as it is situated some 68km north of Central London and the principal way, to get there using public transport, is on the Stansted Express from Liverpool St in Central London. A return ticket from Liverpool St in central London costs £23 – not cheap for the 50 minute journey each way. If you arrive back into Stansted after midnight, the chances are that you will have missed the last train, because they do not always wait for the last flight, so the alternative to travel back to London is by expensive taxi – we are talking £60+ (or $100+). Now that the Stansted Express no longer runs on Sundays due to rail works, you have to take a painfully long coach journey that takes around 2 hours.

Secondly, one of the particularly unendearing habits practiced by BAA (British Airports Authority) at Stansted is to be selective as to which flights they decide to put up on the flight information screens. This lack of info seems to apply particularly to Ryanair flights. This means that you could be sitting waiting in the check in area for your flight check in information to appear on screen and it never does. A weary frequent Ryanair traveller warned the Beetle that this happens frequently, so a lesson learned is to occasionally prowl around the airport to check that your flight hasn't already started checking in. This happened to the Beetle going to Trieste, resulting in a late check in, only 15 minutes before the gate closed, reducing the amount of time available for foraging for duty free chocolate (and other Beetle fodder) to a minimum!

Thirdly, Ryanair do not give you a boarding pass with a printed seat number – it is free seating. What a nightmare, all those people with their sharp elbows. Dignified British queuing (um, no!) turns out in reality as a training opportunity for a rugby scrum! Is it really too much trouble to put seat numbers on a ticket?

Once you have wrestled your way on board, you may think about reading material to while away the excessive amount of time spent on the runway awaiting clearance to depart. You'd be disappointed. There is no reading material whatsoever; no free newspapers or magazines to read. The staff do hand out a brochure with pictures of perfumes and silly Ryan Air models (as if!!) and then when you approach landing, you are requested to hand them back again! (There really isn't anything worth reading in them anyway all, unless you like looking at pictures of grey coloured pearl necklaces.) Buzz, by contrast have excellent info brochures with information about your destination, what to see, where to go, recommendations on where to eat, day trips away etc.

Fifthly, forget on-board entertainment or headphones, music or films – the only entertainment to be had is to observe the no frills service you are paying for, for example, watching the faces of the uninitiated when they are asked to pay £4 ($6) for a sandwich, and £1.50 ($2) for a small and nasty coffee. For her trip to Oslo, the Beetle took a flask of coffee, much to the envy of fellow passengers and the annoyance of the air crew. (Buzz do the best and very drinkable coffee if you have a choice! Also recommended by our Webmaster!)

Even for someone of limited height, (5'2”), the seats are cripplingly unrealistically tiny with next to no leg room. Even the Beetle's knees touched the seat in front.

Sixthly, presumably also to cut costs, passengers are responsible for cleaning; whilst I agree with our webmaster that passengers should be tidy and take their rubbish away with them at the end of their journey, the Ryanair way is to have 2 “hostesses” walk down the aisle with a big bin liner open. You are required to lean over your fellow passengers and throw your rubbish in the bin liner as they walk by. Talk about target practice. It is one of my nightmares that one day, someone will actually use the sick bag provided (the only object to be found on your seat pocket) and be too embarrassed to try and throw it into this walking bin bag, so they'll leave it for me to find, whilst thinking oh, that's strange there actually is something in my seat pocket, I wonder what it is!

Seventh: the staff. My theory is that people who work for Ryanair failed to pass the Aeroflot entrance exams. Rudeness, ability to glare and make unnecessarily snotty remarks are all prerequisites for hiring. As for the pilots, flying Ryanair for them must be their first job out of pilot school. The Beetle has never, ever had a smooth two tyred landing on the handful of flights she has been with them.

But my biggest complaint about Ryanair: it's not just the poor service, which is abominable, it's not the supercilious staff, the lack of decent coffee or seat numbers, it's the fact that to cut costs, they often do not fly into the main airport in a city – and they don't even warn you about it on booking! The Beetle finds this practice offensively misleading. For example, if you want to fly to Copenhagen in Denmark, you actually arrive into Sweden and have to take a bus journey back into Denmark.

The Beetle recently flew Ryanair to Oslo. It was only after she had booked the tickets when she investigated how to get from the airport to the centre of Oslo, that she realised that Torp airport, where Ryanair fly into is 100km away from Oslo. At no time was this made clear when booking on-line, even though the booking was for Oslo. Had this been made abundantly clear, the Beetle would have gone elsewhere.

Not only is it 100 km away from Oslo, but there is no public transport after 8pm to Oslo from Torp (and even then, it is a very expensive taxi ride to the train station) as Torp is a very small sleepy little town. The Ryanair dedicated coach cost around £20 or $30 return and took 2 miserable hours so that a 7.25pm Stansted departure resulted in the Beetle arriving at her Oslo city centre hotel at almost 1am – and it is a 1 ½ hr flight and a one hour time difference. Do the math, as they say! The real airport in Oslo, where all of the other carriers fly into has excellent transport connections and takes less than half an hour from Oslo city centre by train. Never again!

For more info on Ryanair, visit: http://ryanair.com/

What do you think? Do you have a fave or hated airline? Want to get an airport or airline off your chest? Drop the Beetle a line: beetle@globetrotters.co.uk

Lahore is located 288 km from Islamabad. This capital of the Punjab is a city of gardens, parks and educational institutions with a rich heritage. It is an ancient town rich in historical monuments, including Mughal architecture. Lahore is considered to be the cultural capital of Pakistan.

Places of interest include the Badshahi Mosque, Lahore Fort, Old City Shrine of Data Ghanj Bukhsh, Anarkani Bazaar, Wazir Khan's Mosque, National Museum, Sikh monument, Minar Pakistan, the mausoleum of Jahangir, Nur Jahan and Asif Khan, Shalimar Garden, Jallo National Park as well as (some two hours drive from Lahore) there is a world's largest man made forest Chhanga Manga. Lahore is famous for folk dances (dhamal) with drum beating in a traditional way at shrines with a totally different essence of mystic surroundings. Visiting countryside and villages is an excellent experience near Lahore. Lahori people are very hospitable and this hospitality leaves unforgettable impression.

Badshahi Mosque

The city next crops up in literature in connection with the campaigns of the Turkish dynast Mahmud of Ghazni against the Rajas of Lahore between I00I and I008. Around this time it established itself as the capital of the Punjab and thereafter began to play an important and growing role as a centre of Muslim power and influence in the subcontinent. Its heyday was the Mughal era from the early sixteenth century onwards and, as Mughal power began to decline in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, Lahore suffered a concomitant period of ignominy and political eclipse. It was here, at the beginning of the nineteenth century, that the Sikh ruler Ranjit Singh declared himself Maharajah of the Punjab and allowed his troops to desecrate many of the city's beautiful Islamic shrines- including the Badshahi Mosque which was, for a while, converted into a powder magazine. By the time British occupied Lahore in I849, one writer moved to describe the city as 'a mere expanse of crumbling ruins'.

Lahore Fort

Nearby, the massively fortified walls of Lahore Fort speak eloquently of the centuries of passing history that they have witnessed. The fort antedates the coming of Mahmud of Ghazn i in the eleventh century, was ruined by the Mangols in I241, rebuilt in I267, destroyed a gain by Timurlane in I398 and rebuilt once more in I421. The great Mughal emperor Akbar re placed its mud walls with solid brick masonry in I566 and extended it northwards. Later Jehangir, Shah Jehan and Aurangzeb all added the stamps of their widely differing personalities to its fortification, gateways and palaces.

The fort encloses an area of approximately thirty acres and it is possible to spend many hours wandering there, lost in contemplation of times gone by, trying to reconstruct in your imagination a way of life that the world will never see again. The buildings within its walls are a testament to the gracious style of Mughal rule at its height, in which every man knew his place and courtly behaviour had been refined into an elaborately stratified social code. Much of the architecture reflects this code. From a raised balcony in the Diwan-e-Aam, or Hall of Public Audience, built by Shah Jehan in I63I, the emperors looked down on the common people over whom they ruled when they came to present petitions and to request the settlement of disputes. Wealthier citizens and the nobility were allowed to meet their emperors on a level floor in the Diwan-e-Khas, the Hall of Special Audience-which was also built by Shah Jehan, in I633.

Shalimar Garden, Lahore

Another magnificent remnant of the Mughal era, also partially vandalized in the late eighteenth century by the invading Sikhs, is the Shalimar Garden which stands on the Grand Trunk Road about eight kilometres to the east of the old part of Lahore. “Shalimar” means 'House of Joy' and, in truth, the passing centuries have done nothing to detract from the indefinable atmosphere of light-heartedness and laughter that characterizes this green and peaceful walled retreat. A canal runs the entire 2,006 foot (6II meters) length of the garden and from it 450 sparkling fountains throw up a skein of fresh water that cools and refreshes the atmosphere, making this a favourite place for afternoon walks for the citizens of modern Lahore. Lahore is rightly regarded as the cultural, architectural and artistic centre of Pakistan; indeed, the city is so steeped in historical distinction that it would be possible to spend a lifetime studying it without learning everything that there is to learn.

Hameed's areas of specialisation include documentary filmmaking, being a conservation leader from the WWF College for Conservation leadership, graphic design, teaching multimedia Arts at national college of Arts and he is a regular travel column contributor to an English speaking Pakistani newspaper. For more information on travel in Pakistan, Hameed is happy to answer any e-mails: hameed@gandhara.org

If you are looking for a friendly, clean cheap backpackers in Lahore, Hameed recommends the Regale Internet Inn in Lahore. E-mail: Regale_internet@yahoo.com

Ask most of the people around you: “where is Mauritius?” and they probably could not tell you. And yet the famous writer Mark Twain said: God created Paradise, and copied Mauritius. I am a Moroccan citizen lady, and by recent marriage to a Mauritian citizen, and I am now in Mauritius.

MY WAY is a famous song.

MY WAY OF SEEING MAURITIUS, is another story.

Mauritius is really indeed a beautiful island in the Indian ocean, near the east coast of Madagascar and South Africa. The main industry of the country is tourism, and tourists come from everywhere in the world, and all throughout the year, as there is really no winter here, and the weather is always temperate.

The tourism sector is well boosted and organized, and whatever type of tourist you are, you always have what you want in terms of accommodation and rates. It is very easy to get a good accommodation at even 4 Euros per day per person, in an apartment, studio, bungalow and you can also be accommodated in 5 stars hotels and suites.

If you browse any search engine over the internet and put “Mauritius” in your search box, you will be surprised to the number of information available and to see the number of companies, selling and servicing the Mauritius tourist business.

Unlike other places, Mauritius has lots of activities and places to interest tourists, for example, you get the best of many lovely beaches, interesting sightseeing tours that will lead you for example to the unique spot of 7 coloured earth in the world, situated at Chamarel, beautiful nature forests and waterfalls.

Mauritius is a cosmopolitan island where there is harmony of race. On the island, white people, Creole, Hindus, Muslims and Chinese live peacefully. Each race has its own culture, and it is very visible while going from one place to another, seeing the temples, churches, mosques. People in Mauritius attach great importance to religion.

For the short time that I have been on this island, I have seen the following:

You should always bargain and never accept the first price that is quoted to you. Whether it is for the airport taxi, or whatever goods you purchase, and you will see after the transaction that it was really worth bargaining.

Lots of native people are attracted to tourists and never miss an opportunity to make friends with you. It depends of what you want, but they already know what they want from you! Many Mauritians are proud to be in the company of blondes! (Beetle watch out!) Mauritians are very helpful – ask anything and they will try and help you.

There is also another side of Mauritius, which most of the tourists do not see: there is another way of seeing Mauritius, to live as a Mauritian with a Mauritian. You will see his difficulty for struggling to get his living. The salaries are low and prices have gone up. The gap between the rich and the poor has never been as wide as it is now.

Anyway, I am in Mauritius now, and one thing I want to recommend to you, is that you must not forget to do is to taste the dhull purri and farata, which is in a sense the national food, served on the street as a kind of fast food.

Yours from Mauritius

Fatiha Mray.

If you would like to contact Fatiha for information on Mauritius, please e-mail her on: cbspride@intnet.mu

Muir's Tours is committed to travel with concern for the environment, the indigenous people and of course our clients. Our name was inspired by John Muir, the “Father of Ecology”. We are a non-profit organisation with proceeds going to various charities. Your custom will provide us with funds that are passed on to various charities and projects.

We are looking for any help we can get, but most volunteers fall into one of two categories. The Casual Volunteer (CV) who will commit for at least a month and the Long Termer who will stay at least 1 year. We offer the casual volunteer on most of our projects food and accommodation at low cost and practical / logistical assistance with travel. All CVs must pay their own costs – these are minimal (e.g. in India US$6 / £4 per day for food and basic accom, US$21 / £15 train – Delhi / Dehradun / Delhi) together with a registration fee of US$75 / £50 to help with our admin costs.

The options are quite varied and the more popular locations are detailed below.

North India – In Dehradun and Dharamsala we are developing ways to help the Tibetan people help themselves. In Dharamsala there is a well established craft workshop and guest house and we are planning to set up others. We also need people to help promote the sale of crafts back in their home country. We want to establish homestays – a short holiday living with local people – in the areas around Dharamsala and Dehradun. Research work is needed to identify additional suitable families / homes.

Near Dehradun in the small village of Rajpur is a home for Tibetan children (mostly orphans) that have escaped by foot over the Himalaya from Tibet – we want to support this establishment by sponsoring individual children for their education. You can help immediately by suggesting to friends and relatives that they sponsor a Tibetan child, most of whom are orphans. If you know someone who is willing to pay $ 21 / £15 per month to educate, house, feed and clothe a young Tibetan, please let us know.

North central Nepal – near the Tibetan border in and around the village of Panglang. There is accommodation available in a local home and in the tourist periods of March / May and Sept / Dec there is the luxury of a riverside camp at additional cost. The camp is a permanent set up which is a base for rafting and kayaking. Some prior study of the language would be required as there are interpreters available some of the time only, but a limited vocabulary would not be too great a problem.

Mid central Nepal – near the town of Pokhara in a Tibetan Refugee Camp. There is accommodation available in a local home or in the community owned guest house. The camp was set up in 1962 following the Chinese invasion of Tibet and is now well established with brick homes, a fine monastery, a school and a carpet factory. The NKF has English speaking Tibetan staff permanently in the camp, so Tibetan language study is not necessary.

Mongolia – famous for it's horsemanship and yet it nearly lost its most precious horse breed. They are probably the last remaining wild horse species in the world. Przewalski horses almost become extinct with some horses surviving is zoo's. After careful breeding they were reintroduced in several Mongolian nature reserves. Only the group in Hustain Nuruu Reserve was successful. We need to monitor the horses to make sure they are adjusting to their new environment and to gain a better insight into their behaviour. You need to be able to work without assistance in tracking down the harems on horse-back and compiling data on their whereabouts and behaviour. You will need to help us encourage conservation awareness in the local communities.

Eastern Nepal – The Makalu – Barun area. We have a number of projects in this area in conjunction with The Mountain Institute (TMI) and the accommodation would be in local homes or lodges normally. Some prior study of the language would be required as there are interpreters available some of the time only, but a limited vocabulary would not be too great a problem.

To find out more, visit Muir's Tours website on: www.nkf-mt.org.uk or contact info@nkf-mt.org.uk

Mike is the winner of the Globetrotter Club £1,000 legacy available to members under 30 years of age for the best independent travel plan.

If you are under 30 and are a member, please visit our legacy page for details of how to apply. It is available to anyone in the world, as long as they are a member of the Globetrotter Club, have a great plan for independent travel and are under the age of 30. Get those plans in!!

Mike is using his travel award to visit Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. Here's Part 1 of his travels:

We've been in Thailand now for about 10 days and thought I should drop you all a line to let you know we're actually alive and what we've been up to. We spent a few days in Bangkok which was very different than I expected. It was so much cleaner and more organised and the Sky train makes it feasible to get across the city quickly. There is lots of diversity across the city with huge modern skyscrapers next to slums.

The Grand Palace is incredible and so are many of the other sites but the food is by far the best aspect. You can pick up great noodles on the street for only a few pence. We've also tried Scorpion, grasshopper and loads of other things that so far our bodies are accepting. The nightlife in Bangkok is also a completely new experience and we had a couple of wild nights out. We're also getting pretty ruthless with the tuk-tuk drivers.

We caught the sleeper up to Chiang Mai the second largest city where we had our Visas for Laos and Vietnam done whilst we went off into the Jungle Trekking. The Trek lasted 3 days and was hard work but well worth it! We met some hill tribes and also did the very touristy elephant rides and white water rafting. The weather here is mixed with some rain but always very hot and within seconds of doing anything we're sweating. We then headed up by bus to Tha-ton where we are now which is a small town only a few kilometres from the Burmese boarder.

It's been really nice staying here for a couple of days away from the noise and pollution of Bangkok and Chiang Mai. The views are amazing and we've only seen two other westerners here. We've even spent an afternoon chatting with a group of young monks about philosophy. We're leaving in an hour by boat down to Chiang Rai where we'll be spending a while exploring the northern tip of the country. So far it's all gone really well (touch wood) the people are very friendly especially when you get out of the cities. The weather has been good and we've kept away from trouble and illness.

We should be getting to Laos this weekend we think but we're just taking it as it comes.

Globetrotters meeting Saturday 5^th October 2002 By Padmassana

Eamon Gearon's talk entitled “Walking to Siwa” gave us a glimpse of the Egyptian desert. Eamon first visited the area in 1994 and has returned regularly since. His slides depicted the mad Siwa traffic and told us about the Brooke Hospital for working animals, a charity that seeks to alleviate the suffering of mules and other working animals. The camel market where Eamon buys his camels is a sight to be seen, the camel's owners mark them with paint and each subsequent owner adds their mark, so that in the end some of the camels are psychedelically coloured! Eamon told us a good camel costs around £200 and when he trades them in after use, “One careful owner”, he normally gets his money back. Eamon's treks into the desert last around 3 weeks. For the first 100 miles or so from the coast water wells are well marked, but after this water becomes an issue, he told us how he got dysentery from a well where he suspected an animal had fallen into it and died thus polluting this important source of life. The Egyptian desert is not a sea of rolling golden sand dunes as we may have expected, but mile upon mile of rock-strewn desolation. Though this landscape does lend itself to some superb sunset photographs. Eamon's slides of Siwa showed us the houses made of mud and the 100 feet high mud city walls, which have 21^st century additions like electricity cables and satellite dishes. Eamon explained that these mud constructions can be killers in the rain as they are prone to collapse and turn into mud slides. Siwa is a series of oasis, it is said that you can sink a well anywhere in the locality and you will find water, Siwa is a green place, despite its location.

Our second talk was by Tahir Shah entitled “Searching for King Solomons mines”. Tahir's ambition was to find the location of these legendary mines. After extensive biblical research Tahir came to the conclusion that they lay in present day Ethiopia. On his second day in Addis Ababa Tahir struck lucky finding a taxi driver called Sampson who had previously worked as an illegal gold miner. Tahir and Sampson headed to the mines via a town plagued by hyenas. The locals believed these hyena's came off the mountain in order to steal the local children, so to placate them, the local “Hyena men” would slaughter a cow and feed it to the hyenas each evening. The illegal mines are a dangerous open cast type of operation run as co-operatives. The material is moved by hand, along chains of miners. The women then do the panning. Tahir explained that if a miner finds a nugget he usually swallows it, waits for nature to take its course and then goes to the city to sell it. However it is not uncommon that if other miners find someone has done this, they are often murdered and disembowelled for the nugget. This is just another danger for the miners, especially the brave ones who go down deep pits in search of their prize, as these pits frequently collapse with loss of life. Tahir showed us a cave he suspected could be the fabled place he was looking for, but alas it was just full of bats and ended after a few metres. Tahir is sure that the legendary mines are out there somewhere, just waiting to be discovered.

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotter Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk

There is an old Namibian saying: “If the Namibian sun has shone on you once, you are part of the country.”

People who have never been to Africa seem to be under the misconception that lions and wild animals roam our streets or that we stay in the bush! This has caused much laughter from Africans and some even thought that this was just the opportunity to fool around with someone. But that is typical African hospitality. People will joke around just to make you feel comfortable and at ease!

And when you finally convince someone to come and stay in “the bush” in Namibia, it's amazing to see their reaction when they arrive, one of disbelief and feeling that a mistake has been made, is written all over their faces! You see, our International airport is situated 40km outside Windhoek and when you arrive there, it truly seems as if there is nothing! And you do not see the city until you are basically in it! The landscape is such that it hides civilisation from a first time visitor!

But once your find yourself in Namibia, you'll be angry at yourself for not coming here sooner! The country is exquisite in beauty, cultures, places to see and things to do! But don't be in a hurry! African time seem to have found its way to Namibia too! At the coastal town of Swakopmund (the most visited town in Namibia and the second largest town) you get a true European feel – people are laid-back and it seems as if they are on a constant vacation. But don't misunderstand: business is good – you do get good service, but this is the place to come and unwind completely! And we do offer the best cuisine! You can even experience a true African dinner in Windhoek in a township restaurant! This is a must do for any traveller! But you must have a strong stomach! This is not for the faint-hearted!

So what is there to see and do in Namibia? There are international events, such as championships in sand boarding and powerboat racing, to mention a few. And don't forget, we do have the oldest desert in the world, the Namib Desert. You can ride the endless waves of dunes on a quad bike or in a 4×4 or hot-air ballooning over the Namib Desert or visit indigenous tribes or go big game fishing or skydiving or going on a seal and dolphin cruise or bird watching or take a safari to see the big 5, or, or, or…(the list is endless!) Travelling in Namibia you will encounter good hospitality and good value for money and unspoilt nature scenes where wild life is abundant.

With is wide variety of inhabitants, habitats and scenery, Namibia has a lot to offer any traveller! It is fast becoming a popular holiday destination and with a well-planned itinerary, you can see an impressive amount of the country that will leave you breathless with awe and amazement! Even the most difficult to please will find something to enjoy.

For more information, visit Renate's website at www.mcleodcontours.com