Villefranche-sur-Mer

The Globetrotters Club

The travel club for independent travellers.

The Western Balkans by Sarah Guise

Sarah, an Aussie from Canberra has sent an update on her
European adventures.  She says: I have spent a few
weeks travelling by myself in Italy, Slovenia, Croatia,
Bosnia and Hungary. In Italy I went to Venice, Florence,
Siena, Lucca and Sam Gimignano (which I still cannot spell)
and Trieste. Loved Venice, as you know, and other highlight
was the Tuscan hills outside of San Gim. I could have sat
there watching the seasons change, the hills are so
enchanting. Went ambling through grape vines and olive
trees for that authentic experience. Will be looking for a
job squashing grapes in a small Tuscan village after I have
finished working on a ferry in Venice.

If you are ever in the region it is extremely worthwhile
to do a little circuit around the Balkans, where the hordes
of tourists that populate Italy have not yet
penetrated.  Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia is a
quaint old town with a wonderful range of cafes and
beautiful old buildings among the willow trees on the river
bank. A day trip away is Bled, home of my favourite castle
for this trip.  Perched on a cliff overlooking a deep
green lake with an ancient monastery on an island,
sheltered by the surrounding Alps.

Then I caught the ferry from Rijeka in Croatia down the
coast to Dubrovnik.  Slept on the deck with the smell
of salt air and the warm breeze to lull me to sleep. 
The coastline is stark, with weather bleached rocks and
sparse vegetation, the darker green of coastal conifers.
And the water is so clear azure at the shore and a deep
blue as though someone spilt ink where it's deep. 
Wandered the old town of Dubrovnik, enclosed by fully in
tact city walls and escaped the heat to an island 10
minutes away, with rocky beaches and a deserted fort to
clamber in and imagine where the old cannons would have
been fired from the crumbling walls. 

The hot sun on the ground creating that smell of dried
leaves and warm earth that is so intoxicating and evocative
of summer. A chance encounter with some English lasses –
the Beetle! – (and a few bottles of wine) and I was off to
Sarajevo. A contender for my favourite city in
Europe.  Certainly the most interesting if not the
most beautiful.  Minarets and church spires share the
skyline and the architecture tells the stories of all those
different periods of history from Turks to Austrians right
up until the recent war.  Shrapnel marks still scar
the pavement and buildings are pockmarked with bullet
wounds, and yet the cafe lifestyle is thriving and
thelocals delights in strolling up and down the pedestrian
walks each balmy summers night. 

The tunnel museum tells the story of the tunnel, the
only link between Sarajevo and free territory during the
siege, and locals will tell you their stories of how they
lived during the war.  A place with a long and
interesting history currently transforming and adapting
itself once more. Next stop was Zagreb for my
birthday.  A stately city with many fine buildings and
yet more cafe lifestyle.  Friends joined me and we
celebrated my 103rd birthday by watching some crazy French
street performers doing a comical version of the magic
flute, complete with soprano and brass ensemble and full
audience participation. 

The other highlight of Zagreb was the annual animated
film festival, for something a bit different.Another long
un-air-conditioned train trip later and I was in Budapest
to meet another friend, wondering how many times I would
have to revise which is my favourite city in Europe. 
Rightly compared with Prague, the most beautiful feature is
the palace, castle and parliament buildings along the
river, that along with the bridges are beautifully lit at
night. We went to a small town on the Danube bend and
climbed to a castle before catching the boat back down the
river to Budapest.  Spent a lovely day at the hot
baths, and then enjoying a long meal on the river front as
the sun set on another beautiful summers day. And now I am
in London. 

The last four weeks of this trip will see me dashing
around the UK, catching up with friends and family. I will
also go to Scotland, having been unsuccessful in obtaining
a visa for Russia as well as to Ireland for a few days for
a South American truck reunion and to see some more
family. 

If you'd like to contact Sarah, her details are: sarahguise@hotmail.com


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