Meeting news from our branches around the world.
Category Archives: Main article
London:
Saturday 8th June 2002 – London Meeting by Padmassana
This Saturday we were treated to two splendid talks, about two different areas of the world.
The first by Peter Eltringham entitled, “The Maya World” was on Mexico, Guatemala and Belize. Peter showed us temples from the Maya period (300-900 AD), many of which are being reclaimed by the jungle, to the extent that some even have trees growing on the top of them. We saw photos of huge Maya ceramic pots found in deep caves. We saw local life such as women weaving the colourful local textiles and the costumes being paraded during Holy Week fiestas. Peter showed us the kind of transport you can expect to have to use on a visit to the area, such as small planes, high wheeled 4WD's for negotiating the jungle and the “Chicken busses” used by the locals. Peter finished with some landscapes, turquoise coloured rivers, Fast flowing rivers that can only be negotiated using inflatable kayaks and beautiful blue coral lagoons, which are a divers delight! And once Peter had emerged from the jungles having avoided the deadly snakes, his last picture was of a hammock slung between tow trees on a beautiful tropical beach.
Our second speaker was Mary Russell, although her talk was entitled “Travelling around Syria, digressing to Baghdad”, she started with a story from the former Soviet Republic of Georgia. She told us that in order to get an extension to your visa, you have to “fall ill” the day before it runs out, but only a little bit ill! You then get a sick note from a friendly doctor stating that you are too ill to travel and lo and behold your visa gets a few more weeks added on!
Mary showed us the Syrian capital Damascus, from the plain doorways of the closely constructed buildings, the bakery with its fresh flat bread and the labyrinthine souks. She showed us one super photo of a popcorn seller, whose equipment was mounted to his bicycle complete with an exhaust pipe for the cooking gasses. On returning home from Syria Mary found on her doormat an invitation to visit Iraq. It was just after the events of September 11th, but despite the uncertainty of the time Mary flew back to Damascus and then took a taxi to the Iraqi capital. Mary explained that to enter Iraq you have to have an AID's certificate, if you don't as she didn't you have the choice of paying US $60 to have the test or US $70 not to! Needless to say she chose the latter. Mary's slides of Baghdad included Saddam Hussain's Palace which he built next to the remains of what was once Babylon, Fountains, the university which is reputedly fifty years older than England's Oxford University, the hospitals full of smiling doctors and tragically ill children. We saw one positive side to the sanctions imposed by the west, Iraq now grows its own fruit and vegetables which in former years it just bought using its oil wealth. Mary's talk was a fascinating insight into two interesting and much misunderstood countries.
London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back on Saturday 1st September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotter Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk
New York:
Jason Florio gave us some fabulous insights into life in Afghanistan and entertained us with some amazing stories of his time there.
We will NOT have a July meeting due to all of our summer travel plans and the July 4th holiday. Hope to see you August 3rd.
New York meetings are held at The Wings Theater, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month at 4 pm.
Ontario:
The annual Toronto & Ontario GT picnic on Georgian Bay (in Meaford) is upon us, and will be held on Saturday, July 13th, 2002. As usual, our host will be Vera Blowers, and the address is:
228 Eliza Street, Meaford, Ontario tel. 519-538-5729 Program: Arrive on Saturday around noon, bring some barbecuables/munchies/salads/deserts of your choice to share with others. There will be BBQ in the afternoon, a game of croquet or horseshoes (if that's your thing), a swim in Georgian Bay or you can just sit around and talk travel. The hardy types can pitch a tent and stay overnight, watch the sun rise from the lake, go for another swim, walk through Meaford or do whatever else you might wish to. If you would like to bring and show some new and interesting slides we'll have a slide projector & a carousel available. Directions: From Collingwood: Go West along Hwy 26 to Meaford. On the first lights turn right/north/towards the lake and down the hill to a school that is at the corner of Eliza Street. West on Eliza to #228. From Orangeville : North along Hwy10 to Flesherton (there is a little “jog” West on #10 between Primrose to Shelburne), in “downtown” Flesherton turn right on Hwy 4 and after about 4-5km left/North on #13 to Kimberley and from there on #7 all the way to Meaford. In Meaford on the lights (Hwy 26 & #7) go straight down the hill towards the lake etc. If you can give a ride to someone or you need a ride to get there, please contact me (Svatka Hermanek) by email by Friday, June 28 (I will be away from my computer from that date on) or by phone before July 3 (416-503-2933). I will try to arrange car pools. After this date call Vera Blowers at the above number. Hope to see you there.
For information on Ontario meetings, please contact: Svatka Hermanek:
shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259
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Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.
Texas:
The next Texas meeting will be completely open: please come and talk about your favourite place, travels, anecdote or listen to others!
A reminder that Texas meetings will start one hour earlier, at 2pm and not 3pm.
Meetings are held at 2pm at the New Braunfels Public Library, 700 E. Common Street in New Braunfels, Texas. The meeting ends at 5 p.m. If you would like to continue travel talk on a more informal basis, we plan to adjourn to the Hoity-Toit, a local New Braunfels establishment. If anybody would like to enquire about meetings or help Christina, please contact her on: texas@globetrotters.co.uk
London Markets: Portobello Road
On Saturdays there are three markets in one: the antique section is in the south between Chepstow Villas and Coleville Road (the Notting Hill Gate end); a fruit and vegetable market in the middle, runs from Coleville Road to Westway; and at the north end of the market you will find records, books, jewellery and trendy clothes, both new and second hand, along with a flea market.
There are said to be over 1,500 antique dealers here! This is an extremely popular location for tourists and locals alike, so be warned, it is a prime spot for pickpockets. There are lots of good pubs and cafes nearby where you can get refreshments after a hard day shopping.
It's obviously in Portobello Road, London W11 (underground: Notting Hill), open Fridays and Saturdays 8am to 3pm. You can also check out info on: Portobello Online
Next month: Brixton Market
Jacqui's Diary: Guatemala and Mexico
Hola! mis amigos, I have been in San Pedro la Laguna, on the shores of Lake Atitlan, for the past three weeks, learning more Spanish and living with a lovely family. It was an insight into the lives of people here and I was glad to have the time to relax and rest after my long overland trip. The atmosphere in San Pedro could not have been better. No hassle, lots of learning, good weather and the lake as a lovely backdrop to everything. I saw a couple of video movies at Nick's Place and otherwise lived a quiet life.
I did get to Chichicastenango last Sunday for the market and that was a real change of scene. I refrained from buying all that I could see and just soaked up the ambience. As I will have the chance to re-visit the market with the next overland group there was no need to rush into anything. It was also the only rain I saw in three weeks. The benefit of this was to clear the air of dust so that, for the first time, I could see why Lake Atitlan is dubbed 'the most beautiful lake in the world'. It is certainly picturesque and well worth the visit. Mexico is next on my itinerary!
Greetings from San Cristóbal las Casas!
I have started my next overland trip and it is as different to the first as is possible to imagine. I got to Mexico almost three weeks ago from Antigua, having had my main bag of luggage “disappear” from my hotel. I have almost come to terms with it now but it was hard to accept that all my camping things, personal items, some new clothes and various other bits and pieces were no longer mine. The owner did not want to involve the police so we settled the matter in dollars cash but it doesn't really compensate for the loss. I am fine now and have replaced the necessary and am thankful for having sent so much home in Venezuela. The trip to Mexico was an overnight bus trip and suddenly I was in Mexico City. It is pretty high in altitude and very smoggy but it is just a bigger than average city and I had no trouble there at all. Lots of old and very elegant buildings in the centre, mariachi bands in Plaza Garibaldi, the Museo de Anthropologica, parks, palacios, an excellent metro system and a chance to catch my breath.
From there I went to Guanajuanato, a beautifully preserved colonial town about 4hrs drive north of Mexico City. Also a university town under a UN World Heritage site order. I had three days there, and except for the fact that some insect had me for a midnight feast in my hotel, I loved the place. Next stop a town 80 kms away called San Miguel de Allende, and two lovely evenings of music and traditional dances at a local festival. It was done with their magnificent San Rafael Cathedral for a backdrop and with lots of goodwill on the parts of both audience and performers. I then went to Guadalajara, Mexico's second city. It was surprisingly beautiful in the centre although I had only one day and could not do justice to its many advertised attractions. From there I descended further and had a hot and sticky day in Acapulco. It is as ritzy or as grungy as you like and was surprisingly attractive in a slightly citified/beach resort sort of way. Back into the hills and a night at the town of Taxco to wander the streets and try not to buy the mountains of silver on offer. It was full of cobbled streets and silver shops and they were all up hill!
Back to Mexico City and I succumbed to the tummy bug that I picked up somewhere so I did not get to see the Basilica of the Virgin of Guadalupe as I had planned, but I did meet my new leader, Wayne (40, mad, English Exodus driver) and the two (honest!) other fellows on my new “group”, Derry (retired 60+ Australian accountant) and Martin (34, English IT technician). Evidently the van has to be in Panama for a full group in August so they have to relocate it and decided to run the trip despite the lack of numbers. So far it has been great. All of us have travelled extensively and we never seem at a loss for something to say. And while we do not necessarily agree about everything we very quickly established that we wanted to have a good time and were prepared to discuss and find the best option for all. As you can imagine meal times are a group effort and there is no hassle when it comes to trying to do any activity as we fit in anywhere. Should be good – I'll keep you posted!
Since leaving Mexico City, we have had two nights in Oaxaco, visited our first ruins at Monte Alban and Mitla, travelled on to camp in the Sierra Altavesada at Jiquipilas, and now in San Cristóbal. From here we head towards the ruins of Palenque and then to Uxmal and Merida, Chichin Itza and on to the coast. It will evidently be hot and humid from here on and I will not always have email access so the next group letter will probably be from Antigua towards the end of the month.
Thanks Jacqui and keep us posted! If anyone would like to contact Jacqui, her e-mail is: jacquitrotter@yahoo.com
What have you seen on your travels? Drop a line to the Beetle! Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk
Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina: Phoenix with one wing by Sead Turulja
Anyone, anywhere in the world, who watched the news during the first half of the 1990s must know about Sarajevo. Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, a small but green and mountainous country with 4 million people, bordered by Croatia to the south and west, and Yugoslavia to the east. The recent war (1992 – 1995) and heavy siege brought unwanted world attention to the city, not to mention approximately 10,500 dead citizens and over 100,000 wounded.
The war is definitely over, and modern day Sarajevo in 2002 has a lot to offer to a tourist. The city itself used to be a “must-visit” destination in the decades before the war, especially if you were visiting Bosnia. After the war, much money has been invested in Sarajevo on improving its infrastructure etc, to encourage the return of tourists, but so far, the visitor figures are disappointing.
Bosnia and Herzegovina is a Western Christian Country with experience of 4 centuries of Ottoman-Turk presence, which made Sarajevo a point where west and east, and north and south meet. Some call the city European Jerusalem, where in a circle of 100 meters one can see several churches, mosques and synagogues together existing and co-existing in peace for centuries. “Equal chances for all” was the motto of the city for centuries, attracting some 10 different religious communities to settle in the city.
There is something to do in Sarajevo all year round. Sarajevo is a big open-air museum, with unique architecture and artefacts from 4000 years of European history. There's plenty to see and do: drink a cold beer in one of the many street cafes, whilst watching the world pass by, one can see: public buildings, squares, fortresses, famous places such as where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated, igniting WW1, museums, churches, mosques, synagogues, old houses, and much, much more! ATM's are all over the place, as are Internet cafes.
One of the highlights to visit in Sarajevo is the tunnel that was the only supply line during the war for the city and the tunnel museum from the last war. As well as reading and signing the visitor's book, which is almost an historic document in itself, you can actually walk down a small part of the 800 metre long tunnel. You can watch a 20 minute long video, a documentary with real footage from the last war.
Sarajevo was a host to the 14th Olympic games 1984 and has a lot to offer to a winter tourist. Our mountains Igman and Bjelasnica ( 45 minutes by car or bus from city centre) offer skiing 6 months a year with all facilities such as ski-lifts etc. The city is a serious contender for the 2010 Winter Olympics!
Citizens from all of the countries in Western Europe, the U.S.A. and Canada do not need a visa to enter Bosnia and it is easy to get to Sarajevo: 7 international air carriers have routes to Sarajevo, including Austrian Air, Lufthansa, Swiss Air, and Malev. There are also trains and long distance buses connecting Sarajevo with the rest of Europe. These include a daily train from Zagreb, Croatia (9 hrs), and long distance international buses, e.g. from Split (6hrs) and Dubrovnik (5 ½ hrs).
There are hotels to stay, including a phenomenally expensive Holiday Inn. Generally speaking, a room in a modern hotel will cost 45 euros+ (US $45) per person. Staying in a hotel is more or less the same as in any country of the world and is to be recommended only for people that suffer from surplus of money and like being bored. Private accommodation is cheaper, but if your host doesn't speak English too well, and is not officially registered, (proved by ID card with photo + official seal of his/her firm), you'll probably be taken to rooms in some suburb of Sarajevo in a middle of nowhere, apart from being involved in illegal activity. Good hostels or private accommodation in the two main municipalities cost from 15 euros per person.
SARTOUR has a hostel which is situated 10 minutes walk from the historic centre of the city, and offers single, double and triple rooms for 15 euros per person with one of the best views of the city, quiet original Bosnian style atmosphere, and a courtyard and garden for night time schnapps drinking! They can provide services such as English speaking tourist guides for city tours etc. They also offer a big breakfast for 3 euros per person, bike rental, laundry facilities, self-catering, family and group facilities and give our best to make your stay secure and pleasant for fair and reasonable prices. Enjoy a glass or two of our famous Schnapps (plum brandy – 41% alc.), a warm welcome and hospitality.
If you would like to contact Sead to ask him about Bosnia, its history, staying in Bosnia, or touring the area, please e-mail him at: sartour@lsinter.net
Incidentally, all readers of the Globetrotter's E-Newsletter are eligible for a 10 % discount on accommodation in the Sartour hostel, and on tours around the city until 01.01.2003. Next month, the Beetle will be writing about her time in Bosnia.
Notes on Ecuador by Ken Williams
About Ecuador – the country is the poorest in South America where the average salary is $90 per month. As with all countries, there are many people well off. It is possible to find a very nice hotel for $10 per night with breakfast or stay for hundreds; the Hilton is there. Climate wise, it has it all and no change of seasons being on the Equator, hence Ecuador. Very warm beaches, cool mountains and jungles. All is available via plane and excellent buses. Read up on the lonely planet and Ecuador.
Quito has the second oldest University in the Americas, Lima Peru being the first. Look up the hostel Maple on the web and stay in this part of Quito. There are many such places for $10 to $15/night. You will meet many fellow backpackers and can hook-up with them if alone. Lots of cafes to use the web and make calls home. If you want to take Spanish lessons you can stay with a family or just get private lessons at the numerous schools for a few dollars per hour. Art is wonderful, so bring back many items. The Inca people make their own paints and paint on leather not canvas. Stop them while having coffee on the street and haggle with them before buying to get to know them a little. They will have their special outfits and hats and usually a man and wife. They have to be the sweetest people on the earth. If you do not wish to return to Quito usually via plane because of time or go on to the Galapagos just keep heading south to Peru.
I was warned about Guayaquil's problems with muggings, plus it is hot and muggy-pon. There are several national parks and will take you to the top of the world with their many volcanoes or to the jungles. The people known for shrinking heads and dangling them from their waists come from these jungles. They are still very primitive but now give tours into their jungles. Roast monkey is still their meal of choice. Quito has many expedition companies to all these places.
Then hop a bus south and visit many of the antique Spanish towns, more state parks and spas. The only fairly good road is the Pan-Am highway. I had an Inca guide with horses and went into the Andes. The trails are so steep that without the horses could not have returned. The other roads along steep mountain gorges are very interesting. For $15 a day you can stay at mineral spring spas near Quenca and purify your body with organic foods, drinks, body washes/oils and massages. But, I go for the history and the Inca people. Go to the Indian markets; they are fascinating.
The Inca's meal of choice is deep fried hamster and hedgehog. Inca people are very shy and non-violent. Their civilization was the largest in the world prior to the industrial revolution. Then came the Spanish with small pox, venereal disease, TB, and slavery.
The biggest problem in the world is safe drinking water. I only drink bottled water. But, in Ecuador the locals water down certain juices, and South American fruits are wonderful. They are supposed to use water that is boiled, but hotels may have new help, thus ones ends up with G.I problems of a major magnitude. Get antibiotic Rx immediately. Medical help was excellent and very reasonable in the major cities such as Quito and Quenca; the doctors came immediately to my hostel and there are pharmacies everywhere. Luckily, I always carry 3 cans of those high calorie vitamin drinks and can be purchased in pharmacies; I prefer chocolate flavour, and these helped me through my toughest period of the illness, when I could barely get out of bed to get something to eat. These nutritional canned drinks were also useful on long bus journeys there, when sanitary food was not available. You also may want to carry a better quality toilet paper; it seems the paper in some countries resembles double 0 sandpaper.
How to Learn Another Language Quickly! by Eric Dondero R.
Learning another language is not an easy task. However, there are shortcuts and even a few tricks that can be employed to make the job a little easier. Over the years I have learned over 20 languages. I have also learned survival skills for another 20 or so. I learned my first – second language, the hard way. I have learned all the others using accelerated learning methods, many developed by others, and some by myself.
My own language learning journey started with Spanish. I picked up some survival skills in the language as a sailor in the Navy after port calls in Spain, Puerto Rico, and the Philippines. Afterwards, when I attended college I took some Spanish courses as electives. This brought me to a basic level. But I desperately wanted to go all the way.
What followed were several years of difficult yet self-determined study. This included: studying the same textbooks over and over, memorizing textbook glossaries, countless hours listening to language tapes in the car, lots of Salsa, Tejano, and Latin Pop music, Mexican radio and television, and most importantly, frequent trips to the border.
Even after 6 to 8 years of study, I had only reached the advanced level. Finally, I headed to Mexico for 3 months to teach English at a well-known college in Tampico. This extended period of total immersion in a Spanish-speaking environment pushed me over the top to full fluency. Reaching the top and becoming totally fluent was a tremendous achievement. It felt truly wonderful. I would encourage anyone to follow the same path. But the amount of effort and time I invested for fluency in Spanish was enormous.
I did not learn my other languages in the same manner. Before I ventured into learning other languages I invested some time reading books on language learning methods, accelerated learning, advanced study techniques, and brain development. For my next language – Italian – I cut the language learning time in half. For French and Portuguese I cut the time it took me to learn Italian by half. Since then, I've been able to learn other major world languages to a medium level of fluency in about a year.
So, what are the tricks?
Build Your Vocabulary – There is a core group of about 50 to 100 essential words in any language that should be mastered right away. These words include prepositions, question words, a few adjectives, and some selected nouns. Learn these words and many other words can be understood eventually through context.
Memorize Vocabulary Words – Word lists should be memorized and then reviewed many times over. Saying the new words out loud, rather than just reading them silently, helps greatly. Word association, imagining an equivalent word in your native language, can also be helpful. Flash cards might seem a little low tech but they are quite effective tools for this. Even Post-it Notes placed on household items with the vocabulary word listed can help. To gain maximum retention the vocabulary list should be reviewed daily for a week or two and then again weekly for at least 4 to 5 weeks.
Always Read Aloud! – Don't just read new phrases and vocabulary silently to yourself. Read aloud. Studies show that this helps you retain new vocabulary at a much faster rate, plus it helps with pronunciation.
Don't get Bogged Down by Grammar – Let's be honest. Grammar is a dry subject. It can be an absolute incentive killer. So, just start out with a brief overview of prepositions, definite and indefinite articles, singulars and plurals, adjectives, and most importantly, pronouns. Put off learning conjugation for verb tenses for later on. Just learn enough grammar at the start to get you by. If you make mistakes no big deal. Native speakers can understand what you are saying 90% of the time through context.
Study Phrase Books – Always carry a phrase book with you for the targeted language you are learning. Study it at every opportunity including standing in line at a grocery store, waiting on a train or bus, over your morning cup of coffee, or while relaxing in the yard.
Immersion – Look for every opportunity imaginable to use your languages skills. The best way of course, is to physically go to the actual country where your target language is spoken. I cannot stress enough how critical an element this is. Even if it's for a very short time. Look for any excuse to travel to the country where your targeted language is spoken. The next best thing is to visit an area in your city or town where the language is spoken. Hang out at cafes, libraries, malls, bars, and other locations and engage foreign language speakers with simple conversation. Make friends with native speakers. Invite them over for dinner or a few drinks. Tell them that you want them to speak to you only in their native language. Date a native speaker. The absolute best way to immerse yourself quickly is to find a boyfriend or girlfriend who speaks the native language you are trying to learn.
Watch Television and Movies for Your Targeted Language – These days television stations are available in a whole range of languages over satellite and on cable. Watch them for an hour or two every day and try to pick out familiar words and phrases. Additionally, try to mimic the tone and accent of the speakers. Go to the local video store and rent movies for your targeted language. Have a 2-hour review session of vocabulary before you watch the movie. It's even better to watch them more than once.
Listen to Music for Your Targeted Language – Give your native music a rest for a short while and experiment with some music from the country of your targeted language. Many of the national bookstore and CD chains now have excellent World Music sections. Listen to stations and programs on radio for your targeted language. You can tune in to some of these stations on-line.
Listen to Language Tapes! – Purchase some language learning tapes and listen to them as often as possible. First read the accompanying booklet to get a feel for the vocabulary and grammar. Then, listen to the tapes while relaxing at home, while driving to work, on a Walkman when jogging or while working out, and even while in the shower. Be a maniac with the tapes. Don't just listen to the tapes in your easy chair or in your car once a day. Listen to them around the clock. You need to listen to the tapes about 15 or 20 times before they really start to sink in.
Take Computer Language Courses – Whether on-line or a software program, computer language courses provide good visualization for learning vocabulary words.
Immerse yourself in the language learning experience and you will learn much more quickly.
Eric Dondero is a Certified Language Instructor and Interpreter in Houston, Texas. He speaks over 20 languages. He is the author of “Worldwide Multilingual Phrase Book.” Further language learning tips, a Free Quick Spanish Lesson and a Crash Course in Chinese are available at his web site at www.portsidelanguages
Volunteer Work in Africa
The International HUMANA People to People movement is currently running over 150 humanitarian projects in Africa, Asia & Central America, working in fields such as: basic health care, pre-school and primary school education, child care, vocational training, teacher training, environment and community development, AIDS, etc. So far, more than 6000 Development Instructors (our word for volunteer) have participated in starting up and running these projects.
For the successful continuation of our work we are always looking for people, who would like to participate in the program.
The program is open to everybody, regardless of educational background, experiences and nationality. Minimum age is 18 years. It consists of 3 periods – training & preparation period in one of our Travelling Folk High Schools, the working period in a Humana project, a follow up period (evaluation & information work in Europe / USA). Through out the whole program, the Development Instructors are part of an international team.
TCE (Total Control of the Epidemic) is a Humana People to People award winning program to fight AIDS in Southern Africa. In its conception it is based on the experiences of more than 20 years of development work in and with the communities of the region.
HIV/AIDS in Southern Africa is out of control. 26 million people in this area are HIV positive, 10 million children have already lost one or both parents to AIDS. A situation that can only be managed in a great act of international solidarity. In Botswana between 35 and 40 percent of people in the sexually active age group are infected, the highest rate in the world today. TCE (TCM) has been adopted by the government of the country to fight against the epidemic. The results so far are promising, and more and more countries in the region have become interested.
On the subject of costs, we rely on contributions from the volunteers – for food, accommodation, etc. during the preparation period. Visas, flights and vaccinations are paid half by Humana, half by the participants. Scholarship programs are available. Whilst in Africa, Humana pays food, accommodation and pocket money.
We need volunteers, people with good will, hearts, souls and a lot of energy to take part in the fight against AIDS in Africa. If you think you can help, please contact Henner Rödiger on henner@volunteerwork.org or call on 0045 24 42 41 32.
Aung San Suu Kyi freed
Burma's military government has released the pro-democracy leader, Aung San Suu Kyi, who has been under house arrest in Rangoon for the past 20 months. A government spokesman told the Reuters news agency she was “at liberty to carry out all activities, including her party's” from Monday 6th May.
Aung San Suu Kyi has not had an easy time in her native country, Burma. She is the daughter of assassinated independence hero Aung San, and was held under house arrest from 1989 to 1995. She was placed back under house arrest in 2000 when she tried to travel by train to Mandalay in defiance of restrictions put on her. As a result of this, and Burma's human rights record, Burma has faced international isolation and economic sanctions. Aung San Suu Kyi returned to Burma to nurse her dying mother in 1988 and in 1990 her party was elected to power, but this was ignored by the ruling army. In 1991, she was awarded the Nobel Prize for Peace. She was not allowed to return to Oxford, England, where her husband, an Oxford don was dying of prostrate cancer as she knew that she would not be allowed to re-enter the country.
If anyone would like to read more about Burma and what has been happening, the Beetle recommends reading a fantastic book by a Burmese writer called Pascal Khoo Thwe, From the Land of Green Ghosts – A Burmese Odyssey, published by Harper Collins. It is an amazing read – see www.fireandwater.com for details.
Follow Up on Korea, by Young of California
Young, a Korean American, living in California saw Globetrotter Kevin’s Korean itinerary in March’s Globetrotter e-newsletter whilst visiting Korea for a week with his wife and daughter after a trip to Tibet and Sichuan, China.
Young has a few hints and tips he’d like to pass on to us, particularly more interesting as Korea will see a massive influx of tourists as a result of co-hosting the next Football (Soccer) World Cup with Japan in a few weeks’ time:
1) Gyeongbokgung is a fine introduction to Korean “old palaces”, a significant part of Korean cultural heritage. An advantage is that there are museums on the grounds as you say. But if I were to pick a single palace for someone with limited time, it would be Changdukgung Palace, which is a beautiful place, especially the Piwon (Secret Garden) part. There are also regularly scheduled guided tours in English. 2) In Gyeongju, most Koreans would consider Sokuram (Stone Grotto) a must see. Last year I had a privilege of seeing it up close (beyond the glass barrier) thorough some contact, and it was a great experience to see the details of the stone carvings. Certainly not as extensive or imposing as the relief in Angkor Wat which came later, but they offer subtle and balanced beauty that you see commonly in Korean art.
3) We took a 3-day side trip from Seoul to Busuksa Temple and Andong in Kyungsangbuk-Do (the province where Gyeongju and also Taegu, one of the World cup sites are located), made easier with the recent opening of “Central Highway”. Busuksa is an old Buddhist temple dating back to the 7th century, and contains the second oldest wooden structure in Korea. Some people consider this temple to be in the most beautiful mountainside setting in Korea. Andong is a traditional town with well-preserved Korean style houses. At the nearby hamlet of Hahoe, we attended the annual festival commemorating the visit by Queen Elizabeth II 3 years ago. The highlight is the mask dance that started as a parody on the ruling class 600 years ago. From spring to fall, there is a performance of the dance every Saturday and Sunday. We also visited the most celebrated of the old private schools for Confucian scholars, Dosan Seowon, dating back to 16th century.
4) For me, the fascination of the Korean landscape and culture can be found in one setting – Buddhist temples. They are typically located deep in mountains, and many of them have survived the ravage of war throughout centuries. They are still the central repository of Korean Buddhistic practice where meditation in the serene setting is an integral part. Try to visit at least one Korean temple – it is vastly different from a Thai temple, typically gaudy and metropolitan. The most famous is Bulkuksa (often overrun with tourists), mentioned in Kevin's itinerary, not far from Daegu and Ulsan where World Cup matches are to be held. Haeinsa and Tongdosa in Kyonsangnamdo, near Busan are also well-known.
5) Visitors will find it difficult to communicate in English in Korea, especially in the countryside, even though we saw the whole country gearing up for co-hosting of the World Cup. Organized tours will be convenient but expensive. Independent travellers will need patience and spirit of adventure, but rewarded with memories of a unique culture, neither Chinese nor Japanese. Korea is much cheaper than Japan, but significantly more expensive than most third-world countries, especially in the world-class city of Seoul.
MEETING NEWS
Meeting news from our branches around the world.
Costa Rica Volunteer Programme
Rachel works for a non-profit conservation organization in the US, The National Save the Sea Turtle Foundation. She is are offering Volunteer positions at our field station in Costa Rica where we have a sea turtle conservation project. Any volunteers would be doing nightly beach patrols to look for turtles as well as participating in a nest protection technique study. In the mornings we do nest surveys on horseback. The cost is $600US per month and this includes your room and board. All transportation is separate and must be covered by the individual. But I can help with arrangements. This opportunity is for the hearty, as it includes a lot of walking on soft sand late at night plus we need people for the complete month. We also have ten-day ecotour packages; Deluxe and Economy. If any of this sounds interesting to your group, please contact me. I hope to hear from you soon.
Pura Vida, Rachel Silverman National Save the Sea Turtle Foundation
http://www.savetheseaturtle.org
London Meeting review by Padmassana:
Our first speaker was Mark Honigsbaum, whose talk was entitled The Fever Trail, after his book of the same name, which documents the discovery of the Cinchone tree (Cascarilla), which was found between 4,000 & 10,000 ft up in Ecuador. This tree provided the cure for malaria and was brought back to Europe and then planted in other malarial regions of the world such as India and Indonesia.
Mark’s slides however showed us a trip he made to Ecuador in April this year. He travelled into the mountains with a guide following an old treasure hunter’s trail for seven days and a distance of around 30 km’s. His scenic photo’s reflected this stark area that the sun hardly seems ever to penetrate, the mountains seemed to always be covered in cloud. As well as the scenery he showed us the revered grave of an old treasure hunter, where today’s treasure hunters leave an offering.
Our second speaker was Toby Green whose talk was entitled Travels in West Africa to Senegal, Guinea and Guinea-Bissau. Toby’s mission had been to find the Marabout, who are shamens and charm makers who can reputedly make you invisible with their ju-ju magic! Toby’s slides were not for the squeamish as they depicted what goes into the making of the charms, such as parts of black cats and used funeral shrouds.
Toby heard of cases where these charms were used to cure snakebites, but this did not stop him coming down with malaria! His pictures showed us the regions green valleys, volcanic cones and waterfalls and scenes of village life including millet pounding and tea making. We saw a photo of a “Magic stone” these stones miraculously come back to the same place even if removed; this has resulted in dead straight roads taking diversions around them.
Toby did finally meet a Marabout who for a price would make him invisible, but he wouldn’t divulge whether he managed it, we’ll all have to read his book, “Meeting the invisible man” to find out.
The next London meeting will be on the June 8th (the second Saturday due to the golden jubilee bank holiday weekend). Speaking will be Peter Eltringham Travelling in the Maya World and Mary Russell Travelling around Syria, digressing to Baghdad.
London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the ussualy onfirst Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back on Saturday 1st September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotter Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk
Sacred Texts to be Stored in Computers by Rinzin Wangchuk, Kuensel Online
The central monk body has begun teaching computer operations to monks in its bid to electronically archive Bhutan’s rich collection of Buddhist manuscripts, biographies and historical documents.
Twenty monks of the central monk body recently completed a two-week computer operations course conducted by the National Technical Training Authority under its special skills programme. Among the skills taught were using Dzongkha (the national language) fonts with MS Word, typing, editing and formatting in Dzongkha, typing pechas (scripts) and using templates for pechas, printing techniques and an introduction to the internet. With this training the monks will be able to save all the scripts on computers using CDs as back up storage. The central monk body has already purchased twelve computers for the project and will soon buy another eight.
This project was personally initiated and funded by His Holiness the Je Khenpo, His Holiness contributed Nu 1.8 million (£25,289/$36,815 source http://www.xe.com) to the project.
To start with the Drukpa Kagyued text will be compiled. “Some portions of the text have been lost”, said Karma Lhendup of the central monk body, “but we have borrowed the text from Buddhist monasteries in India and Nepal to fill in the missing bits and make corrections where necessary.” He added that other rare Buddhist texts, which once existed in Bhutan but are now lost, will also be borrowed and archived. Important religious texts of other Buddhist lineages like the Nyingma tradition will be compiled at a later date.
“When we complete compiling, our archive will be accessible to the public and those interested in research” said Karma Lhendup.
Keep up to date with news from Bhutan by visiting Bhutan’s national newspaper online at www.kuenselonline.com
This article was taken from the April 2002 newsletter of The Bhutan Society. With thanks to Lucy Hornberger and Kevin Brackley from the UK.
New York:
Hello Globies!
June 1st is our next meeting. A timely and interesting topic; Afghanistan. We will NOT have a July meeting due to all of our summer travel plans and the July 4th holiday. Hope to see you June 1st.
See below for a glimpse into Jason's adventure in Afghanistan.
Travels in Afghanistan August 2000 and August 2001 by Jason Florio When I journeyed to the Taliban controlled region of Afghanistan in August 2000 it was by default. I was on my way to Kashmir when I got a call to join a journalist colleague who said, “This [Afghanistan] is where it is happening”. In August 2001 my Afghan journey to the North eastern region was fuelled by a need to complete a picture of a divided country. The North eastern area of the country under the control of the Northern Alliance (who opposed the Taliban,) was a Shangri-la compared to the Taliban held region where I constantly felt a great sense of general and personal paranoia (I was arrested by the Taliban Vice and Virtue police for taking pictures of a football match, and then being accused of spying by their military). I wanted to experience Afghan life without the confines of the extreme Deoband form of Islam practiced by the Taliban.
My first attempt to cross into the Northern Alliance region (2001) from Pakistan by horseback, disguised as an Afghan woman in a head to toe burqa failed. After subsequent weeks of waiting. I finally made it in after landing a flight on an Russian made Northern Alliance helicopter crossing from Tajikistan into the Panjshir valley, the lair of the legendary “Lion of the Panjshir”, Commander Massoud. This idyllic valley is the gateway to the north, and who ever controls it controls the region. Being allowed to roam freely and shoot photographs without the constant monitoring of the Taliban was liberating. Working closely with the Afghan Ministry of Foreign affairs, I was granted permission to photograph on the front line at Bagram as well as deep in the Panjshir valley where multi-national Taliban POW's were held. In addition, I also photographed girls' schools (non-existent in Taliban territory) and fighters en route to the front line.
While waiting for the Massoud interview I was promised by the Ministry upon my arrival, I headed deep into the mountains with five Kalashnikov carrying mujahideen fighters to find the Kuchi nomads. After twenty-two years of fighting in the country, their life style had changed very little. They were still camel-riding transients who showed they were virtually immune to the effects of the war by crossing through the frontline without hindrance from either side. The Kuchi we encountered greeted us with open arms, until one of them thought I was trying to photograph his wife. We were then asked politely to leave in the form of a group of young nomads palming rocks at us. Before heading to the sandy wastelands of the northwest and eventually onto our UN flight back to Islamabad, we finally were granted audience with Massoud, “The Lion of the Panjshir” met us in his fortified bunker office and gave us forty -five minutes to interview and photograph him.
Within a week of returning to NYC on Sept the 5th, commander Massound would be assassinated by Al Qaeda operatives posing as journalist, and the attacks in the US would indelibly link the US and Afghanistan, finally giving the Afghan “Silent Majority” a world voice.
New York meetings are held at The Wings Theater, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month. Meetings start promptly at 4:00pm and end at 5:30pm. $10.00 for non-members, $8.00 for members.
Weekend away: Marseilles
Where is it? South of France, on the Med
Why would I know it? The French Connection? The Count of Monte Cristo? Beautiful people in the south of France?
How do I get there? It is possible to fly direct, alternatively, get into Paris, by plane or train (Eurostar from the UK) and take the train a grand vitesse (TGV) to cover the 700km from Paris to Marseilles. It only takes 3 hours!
What’s it like? Old, the Phoenicians landed in the natural harbour around 600BC, had a bad rep with drugs and immigrants from French immigrants. Nice harbour with cafes, a castle and a large cathedral on the hill.
Is it safe? Well, it’s a lot different from the image projected by the French Connection! No, seriously, like all big cities, you stick to the good areas at night – there’s been a lot of money pumped into the city to do it up and make it a really attractive place these days!
What’s there to do? These days, it’s got good shopping, vibrant nightlife, try out the bouillabaisse (fish stew), get a tan, mix with the “beautiful people”, eat well, try out good bars, visit the ballet or the opera, buy some soap (seriously, a Marseille speciality!)
Take the ferry to the Château d’If, (famous from the Count of Monte Cristo) from the quai des Belges, otherwise, wander around the Vieux Port, shop, eat, drink….
Would my mother approve? Um, take her shopping, then for a good bouillabaisse, keep her away from the railway station, then, yes!
OK, when should I go? It’s a bit windy with the Mistral during February and March and also October and November. Otherwise, any time, but maybe avoid August – it’s almost national holiday time.
Ontario:
The last Ontario/Toronto GT meeting was held on Friday, May 24th; members Ray & Inge Bates spoke on “Six Months in Asia Following 911” and Dan Ramrose spoke about “Five Months' South American Adventure” and Paul Webb gave a talk on “Eight Weeks in Ghana”.
We are planning our annual GT picnic this summer. Proposed dates include one weekend in July or the beginning of August. The location could be at Meaford (on Georgian Bay,) at Vera Blowers' place or Toronto Island. To be advised when arranged, so stay tuned – we just hope the weather improves a little bit.
Bruce Weber has just left for a month-long trip to Vietnam and the Philippines and he is planning to tell us all about it in September.
For information on Ontario meetings, please contact: Svatka Hermanek:
shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.
Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.