Category Archives: Main article

Dubai – building a new island

Dubai has never been known to do things by halves. Tourism is a huge earner for Dubai, the tiny state on the Arabian peninsular. They already have super de-luxe hotel complexes, reputedly the world’s first 6 star hotel, golf courses created from grass imported from the United States, watered each night from a massive desalination plant. You start to get the picture that nothing is too much. And now, the Dubai government has started work on what will be the world’s largest artificial island called The Palm.

It will be 300 metres offshore, and 5km long, in the shape of a palm tree. The marketing company in charge say that it will be visible from the moon. Press information states that the project is using 415 architects and 760 labourers, working 24 hours a day to obtain the rock and sand that the island requires.

Foreigners will be allowed to own property, on a 100 year freehold basis, and there will be an estimated 3,000 villas, townhouses and apartments, many with private access to a beach and moorings. Sound tempting? Villa prices start at £350,000 or $550,000, but buyers can chose the style of their villa, from Italianate, Caribbean or Middle Eastern. 40 boutique hotels are on the drawing board, many designed according to a set of themes: Tahitian, Moroccan, Greek are just some of the styles.

For more info, take a look at: Palm Island Info


Cyprus – An Island Divided by Andy Brouwer

The majority of tourists visiting Cyprus are blissfully unaware of the pain and division that has haunted the island since 1974. To most, the image and experience of Cyprus is one of sun and sand, the snow-capped Troodos Mountains and exquisite frescoes housed in Byzantine monasteries. For the island's inhabitants its a different story altogether. After gaining independence in 1960, peace between the Greek and Turkish communities was already fragile with the Turkish minority, representing 20% of the population, retreating into ghettos and enclaves after sporadic violence and harassment. In their defence, the Turkish army launched an invasion of northern Cyprus in July 1974 and occupied the northern third of the island, leaving thousands dead or wounded and huge numbers of refugees fleeing to their respective sides of the divide. That division of Cyprus has remained to this day.

Whilst the south has enjoyed international recognition and a booming economy boosted by tourism, the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus has found life a lot tougher and depends on its sponsor Turkey for its economic survival. Separating the two factions and running almost the length of the country and dividing the island's capital into two is the Green Line, also known at the Attila Line – a buffer zone maintained and patrolled by the blue-bereted peacekeepers of the United Nations. Talks of a reconciliation between the two sides have stuttered and stalled on many occasions and feelings still run high, fuelled by recent incidents like the deaths of the three Deryneia Martyrs in 1996.

This was the background to my visit to the island's capital city Nicosia, or Lefkosia as it's called today. The holiday rep at my hotel in Pafos had whetted my appetite when he told me that crossing the Green Line wasn't a good idea, as I might not be allowed back. That statement immediately sparked my thirst for adventure and my wife Sue and I set off early one morning in our hire car to cover the 150 kilometers to see for ourselves. Our first stop in the capital was the 11th floor of the Woolworths department store on Lidras Street, where telescopes gave us a bird's eye view across into the northern half of the city. At the end of the street, an observation platform allowed us to peer into the buffer zone to see a street with rubble-strewn buildings and rolls of barbed wire, left as it was in July 1974.

On foot, we followed the Green Line westwards, punctuated by a series of UN bunkers, roadblocks, a wall of sandbags and oil drums and signs forbidding photographs and stopped at the Holy Cross RC church, isolated inside the buffer zone and guarded by a solitary UN soldier. Nearby is the only spot on the island where you can legally cross into the north on a day excursion, at the site of the old Ledra Palace hotel. As we approached, Sue's nerves became a little more frayed when we encountered up to fifty wailing Cypriot women, dressed in black mourning clothes and holding pictures of loved ones still missing since the 1970s.The stern-faced Greek Cypriot border guards made little effort to disguise their disgust at our desire to cross as they slowly copied details of our passports onto a list and pointed at a sign that instructed our return by 5.30pm. It was a few minutes past eleven o'clock.

Leaving the checkpoint, Sue and I walked quietly along a connecting road, the ruined Ledra Palace hotel on our left, now used as a billet by the UN (who have 1,500 personnel on peace-keeping duty on the island), and desolate waste ground to our right. Two female UN soldiers nodded their hello as we completed the 300 metre walk and checked into the Turkish police control building. A few minutes later and the form-filling formalities completed, we were in northern Cypriot territory and Sue began breathing normally again. No real hassle at all but a mixed feeling of excitement and unease nonetheless, heightened by the soulful wailing of the widowed Cypriot women we'd left at the border post as we crossed no-mans land.

For the next four hours we walked around the old city, along narrow passageways and empty streets, enjoying the friendliness of the people, soaking up the atmosphere and visiting a few notable attractions including the soaring minarets of north Nicosia's most prominent landmark, the Cami Selimiye Mosque. Its a working church with a strong French Gothic style but it was empty as I stepped inside and removed my shoes for my first look inside a mosque. Next door is the sixth century Byzantine church ruin known as the Bedesten and nearby is another ornate Gothic church, the Cami Haydarpasa. Undergoing restoration work is the Buyuk Han, a rare example of a Middle Age inn, known as a caravanserai. Although closed, the foreman invited us in to look around before we finished off our tour with a ten minute walk to the Turkish (Mevlevi Tekke) Museum, the former home of the mystical Islamic sect known as the Whirling Dervishes. They are famed for their spinning, trance-like dance that flourished for 700 years until they were banned in 1930.

Returning to the old city, we stopped at a sidewalk cafe in the pedestrian zone and listened to a rock band playing an open-air concert. One unusual aspect which gave Sue a few jitters north of the divide was the distinct lack of female shoppers. Instead, large groups of young Turkish men were much in evidence, either standing on street corners or wandering aimlessly and appeared to be army conscripts in civilian clothes. With an hour to go before the border closed, Sue and I made our way back towards the crossing point via the quiet back streets where buildings have been left unoccupied, others are bullet-scarred and in ruins including a church and the Roccas Bastion, where Turkish Cypriots can look through a barbwire-topped fence into the southern half of the city and what for them is forbidden territory.

The smiling faces of the Turkish police were in stark contrast to the dour look on the faces of the Greek border guards as we returned to the southern half of Nicosia via the long and eerie walk past a lone UN soldier on sentinel duty midway between the two factions. The wailing widows were still massed just past the guardroom and we were handed a flyer asking if we knew of the whereabouts of Pavlos Solomi and Solon Pavlos Solomi, missing since the morning of 15 August 1974 and the beloved husband and 17 year old son of the old woman who'd handed us the poster. Her name was Panayiota Pavlos and she told us that 1,588 people are still missing from that time, their fate unknown and the encounter was a poignant reminder of the human face of the division that still separates Cyprus today.

For more information on Andy’s travels, visit his website which has lots of travelogue stories with pictures. Andy Brouwer's website


 Amina Lawal to be stoned in Nigeria in the 21st Century As you may recently have read in the papers, a court in Northern Nigeria has confirmed that 30 year old Amina Lawal will be executed by stoning due to giving birth to a child after her divorce. “The crime”, proved by Ms Lawal becoming pregnant was made at a time when the Law of Sharia was not yet legal in the area. Funnily enough, the father of the “crime” could not be prosecuted because of the requirement of 4 witnesses to the event, who, strangely have not come forward. The stoning will take place when Ms Lawal has finished breast feeding her 8 months old daughter. What’s more, Miss Universe are still considering scheduling their event in Nigeria, despite this sentence.

At Amnesty International (AI) England's home page you can sign an open letter to Nigeria’s President to protest against this cruel sentence. AI say that more than 18.500 people have already done so. To sign the letter, visit: Amina Open Letter


Letter From Lisbon Part 1 by Sally Pethybridge

Well, where do I start? I left the UK on Wednesday 24 April 2002 to start a new life in Lisbon. My furniture and other worldly possessions left the UK on the previous Friday to sail to Lisbon and were due to arrive in port the day after I did – which meant that for the next few days I was anxiously eying up the docks to see if I could see my container. Portugal is renowned for its Bank Holidays and of course that week it had one, which meant that most people take the following day and make a long weekend of it – not very usefulto someone who is keen to know if her home has arrived safely.

We eventually moved into a flat on 1 May, under the walls of Castelo do Sao Jorge. It is on the top (fourth floor) with views over the River Tejo (Tagus) and the lower part of the city. We were so lucky to get it because flat hunting in this country is not an easy business. It is a large flat as it has three bedrooms, two bathrooms, kitchen, dining room and sitting room. We also have a 2 foot wide veranda at the front as well as a small outside area to hang washing, but the bonus is that we also have a garden which backs up under the castle wall – luckily we are shielded by lemon trees and vegetation.

The roads around the area are quite narrow and even more restricted by the fact that the parking rules mean that you park where you can i.e. on the pavement, against walls, often leaving just enough room for something to go through – most cars (and some are very expensive) sports cars along the doors and battered wing mirrors etc because of it. The pavements are very bumpy as they are made up of small blocks of stone – high heels are a definite liability – something with suckers would be more useful!

I’ve found a great store, it’s Spanish “El Cortes Ingles” – a John Lewis and Waitrose over nine floors (John Lewis), basement (Waitrose) and three underground levels of parking! And on Sunday we noticed that they have opened a massive UCI cinema complex inside as well. The shop also delivers!!!! Bliss.

The weather has been glorious and I cannot tell you what it is like to sit at the dining room table and watch the sun go down over the river and the 24 of April Bridge. It is also great fun watching all the ferries/car ferries and cruise ships going up and down and backwards and forwards. “The World” was in port a few weeks ago – that is certainly some ship. Saturdays and Sundays there are quite a few yachts out as well as speedboats. I keep waiting for a nasty accident as sometimes it looks like they are on a collision course with the ferries. Oh and the last ferries are at 2.30am – bit of a change from last bus from Swindon to Malmesbury at 6.15pm!!

Tourism seems to have felt the effect of 11 September as the number of cruise ships is certainly less than normal but at least it means you don't get blown out of bed by them sounding their horns coming into port at unearthly hours.

The whole transport system puts the UK to shame. Everything works and properly. Even the trams that were built in Sheffield before or just after the war still operate and look quite quaint compared to the huge new ones covered in adverts for Kit-Kat and Sagres Beer. Prices are so low: a return ticket for a 20 minute trip was 55 centimes – not even 1 Euro.

I am having Portuguese lessons three times a week, which is challenging and trying to watch as many programmes with subtitles as possible. We have cable TV, which means we get BBC Prime (good for catching up on Eastenders) and BBC World.

Eating lots of fish – we found a wonderful place, a warren of rooms (probably totally condemnable in the UK) and if you get in there early (12.00) you can get a table. You sit very small (and rather uncomfortable) wooden stools and for the princely sum of £7 ($10) for two of us, we had a bottle of house wine, two soups, two fish with large salad, two desserts, two coffees and two ports. Service is something that still has a long way to go before it reaches what we would class the norm, so you have to expect some Monty Python type situations occasionally, but in general they like the English very much and find it flattering when you choose to eat their home cooking.

We have had two water cuts – one totally unexpected which went on for about nine hours (ugh) and one today from 9am – 6pm but at least this time I was forewarned and able to store water so we could have drinks etc. When it came back on it was a delightful shade of rust!

To contact Sally and find out more about Lisbon, e-mail:

Sallypethybridge@aol.com


The Gambia by Rosemary Hamblin

Fate has a strange knack of intervening in your live when you least expect it. 1999 had been the worst year of my life ending with the death of my father after a long drawn out illness. I just wanted to get away from everything. I didn’t care where it was so long as it was hot and I could sit on the beach, relax and recover. So I found myself in The Gambia for the first time in late December 1999. I loved The Gambia immediately. Although not scenic, I was captivated by the warmth and friendliness of the people. I had travelled extensively in Africa before but there was something indefinable about this place that drew me like a magnet. All I wanted to do was relax so I would rise early and lay on the beach for a couple of hours to set me up for the day. I enjoyed being on the beach early, most tourists were still in bed and the peace and the early morning sun revitalised me. I did not want to be sociable so I read or feigned sleep. However, I could not help but be fascinated by one lady who also at on the beach every morning. She was always surrounded by Gambians. They encircled her, sat on the bottom of her sunbed, chatting away. They called her Mama Africa. As the days passed my self-imposed exile began to waver and my curiosity surfaced. Who was she? Why were The Gambians always flocking around her? Why did they call her Mama Africa? In the end I could stand it no longer and I approached her and asked her my questions. That long conversation was to alter the course of my life. Mama Africa and her dynamic daughter Debbie worked tirelessly to collect medical equipment which they shipped to The Gambia in a container every year. They were also involved in collecting items for the schools and the emergency services. She gave me her address and I promised to try and help. Over the next ten months I collected items towards their next shipment. The more I came to know them both, the greater the respect and admiration I had for both of them. They worked tirelessly for The Gambia. The project was by this time expanding so rapidly that Debbie took the decision to amalgamate the medical, educational and emergency services under one umbrella to become an official charity. Thus GO GAMBIA was born. I was asked to become a Trustee and took on the responsibility of Sponsorship Program Administrator. We now run an educational sponsorship programme for 200 children as well as providing desperately needed equipment for the schools, hospitals and the emergency services. GO GAMBIA continues to expand and has become one of the great passions in my life. I could go on forever about it but it would be easier to log on to our website where our work is explained in detail. Go Gambia website Fate led me to that beach in The Gambia in 1999. I often look back and think how strange it was that a conversation on Banjul beach turned my life upside down when I least expected it. Any Globetrotters members interested in sponsoring a child’s education or who can assist the project in any way can contact us through the GO GAMBIA website. Alternatively, you may contact Rosemary by e-mail on: rahamblin@hotmail.coms


A Pharmacist Writes…..Insect Bites by Jason Gibbs, Pharmacist at Nomad Medical Centres

There are many diseases spread by the bite of infected insects. This article focuses on methods of bite avoidance and therefore ways to reduce not only the inconvenience of insect bites but also ways to reduce the chances of contracting any one of the potentially life threatening diseases including malaria that can be contracted this way

Different types of mosquito will bite at different times, for example the mosquito that carries malaria predominantly bites between dusk and dawn whereas the one that carries dengue fever (predominantly present in Asia but also in the Americas an Africa) will bite during the day, so good bite avoidance techniques should be employed whenever biting insects are present.

There are several basic ways to reduce insect bites and these will be considered in turn. They are to:

Ø Reduce general exposure to insects

Ø Apply repellent to the skin

Ø Use insecticides which are impregnated into materials such as clothing or mosquito nets

Ø Remove insects from the environment using contact insecticides, e.g., knock-down sprays or burners/mats

Reducing Exposure

This means reducing the amount of exposed skin that is available for the mosquito to bite, therefore long sleeved shirts, trousers and socks should all be worn. It’s also been found that the mosquitoes find it more difficult to bite through loose as opposed to tight clothing.

Another way to prevent mosquitoes getting to your skin is to ensure that you always sleep in a mosquito net, these should either have a very fine weave to prevent any insect getting through no matter how small it is, or a larger weave that allows air to circulate better but these should be impregnated with an insecticide (see later)

Application of Repellents

There are many different types of repellent on the market but one of the best is still DEET, when applied in concentrations of at least 20% (many contain 40-50%) it is both long lasting and effective. It is safe when applied to the skin but can damage plastics so its always advisable to wipe your hands after application or you may find that when you go to put your sunglasses back on you leave fingerprints on the lenses. It will also sting the eyes and lips and therefore should never be sprayed directly on the face but can be applied lightly using the hands. Citronella oil and especially its derivatives are also very effective but citronella oil on its own doesn’t last very long at all and would need to be reapplied every hour or so.

Whichever repellent you use it is important to reapply regularly, its difficult to say exactly how often but no repellent will last more than about 4 hours or so (unless it is specially formulated into a slow-release application) and factors such as humidity, wind and the amount you sweat will all reduce effective duration but every couple of hours should suffice. Its also important to cover all exposed skin, not forgetting the ears or the back of the neck since mossies will always manage to find that one little patch of forgotten skin and have a feast!

High strength DEET can also be applied to wrist and ankle bands to be worn at high risk times and if these are stored in a little airtight bag they will remain active for days before another application is required.

Use of Insecticides

The type of insecticide now most commonly used is called permethrin, It’s available for application directly to clothing or in a much stronger solution that can be used to soak mosquito nets and give protection for up to 3-6 months. All nets should be treated where possible because if even a single mosquito gets into your net with you it is trapped for the night, with only you to feed on. It can land on a non treated net for a rest and then return to you for a further meal. When sprayed onto clothing it will effectively kill any insect that lands on the treated clothing and thus prevent the mosquito from biting you for up to two weeks. This method of bite avoidance is advisable for those individuals who find themselves particularly susceptible to insect bites or are in areas of particularly high risk of disease transmission. When using these products it is advisable to avoid contact with the skin whilst still wet, but once dry it is totally safe for humans and it is impossible to tell whether clothing has been treated or not. It doesn’t even smell unlike DEET that used to be used to treat clothing and nets

Removal of Insects from the Environment

These are generally ways to kill insects present in rooms etc. Knockdown sprays are very effective and readily available and the best way to use them is often to spray the room before you go out in the evening and let the insecticide do its work whilst you are enjoying yourself. Alternatively if you have an uninterrupted electricity supply, plug in products that release permethrin-type insecticide into the room throughout the night are very effective. They rely on a small heating element that will either vaporise fluid or heat little mats that in turn release the active ingredient into the room, again harmless to humans and virtually odourless. You can also purchase coils that burn releasing the insecticide, these can produce small amounts of smoke and fumes and should therefore not really be used in enclosed environments, they are however very useful when eating outside. A small piece of a coil (one coil lasts about 10 hours) burnt under the table will keep the mossies away from your ankles – one of the most popular areas for biting insects. Air conditioning will also reduce the number of bites you get during the night if you have none of the other options since lower temperatures do not encourage the mosquitoes to feed and the constant flow of air makes it more difficult for them to find you.

Formore information, visit the Nomad Travel website:Nomad Travel or call the Travel Health Line: 0906 8633414 (calls cost 60p per min) to discuss your travel health queries with a medical.


Curacao: the perfect diving spot for family men…and family women, Part 2

Philippe continues his tale of diving and exploring Curacao with his family.

Harry and his wife, Ann-Marie, have done all in their power to help us achieving the best diving around the island. They have lent us all equipment necessary including tanks to do some shore diving around the island and God knows that, around Curacao, there are several luscious beaches (e.g., “Klein Knipbaai”, “Playa Porto Marie” or “Playa Jeremi”) with astounding coral reef diving, down to quite extreme depths (that is, if you want) and very good facilities…for the after-dive relaxation.

The club boats have also taken us to some very good diving places not far from the hotel. One of these places was called the “Mushroom Forest” and, when diving there, we had the feeling of wandering in the middle of a forest of giant mushrooms, except that they were coral formations under which we could often glimpse lobsters and moray eels.

Easy Divers’ philosophy is based on the following principle: once you have established your credentials, you are free to dive the way you want, under your sole responsibility. This philosophy, in addition to the boat taking you to excellent spots, to the skipper giving you a good pre-dive briefing and to the boat picking you up at the end of your dive wherever you are (i.e. you do not have to navigate back to the boat), was what European divers like us needed to do exciting dives.

The club was also offering all expected facilities and more, like nitrox, a locker to store away your equipment to dry, a bar on the beach nearby, showers for after the dive, all books necessary to identify what we had seen (a special mention about Paul Humann’s and Ned Deloach’s “The Reef Set” books which is probably one of the best books ever made to precisely identify what you are going to see or what you have seen: definitely a must have!) and refreshing fruit salads to pick from while discussing your dives with your buddies, lying on deck chairs.

Furthermore, the diving club was conveniently located on the beach of a resort (the Sunset Waters Beach Resort) which was providing very good accommodation, food and all other amenities to make the rest of the trip enjoyable, including a casino, a swimming pool and a mini-golf. There were even some activities organised for the kids like movies, sea kayak trips or water-polo tournaments so they definitely have also been able to make the best out of their stay there.

Apart from Park Cristoffel which is supposed to offer some very good hiking, Curacao also offered a few interesting things to see on the dry over-the-water side of the island:

· Willemstad (the capital) made for an interesting tour with its Dutch inspired houses, its floating rotating bridge, its floating market (as nothing grows on Curacao, except Aloe Vera which has been cultivated there for a very long time, all fruits and vegetables are imported from the nearby Venezuela);

· A South-African Boer has opened an ostrich farm, which gave us the opportunity to discover the life of ostriches and even to taste them in the form of juicy steaks and sausages;

· The Kura Hollanda Museum about the Black Culture and Holocaust was also a highly interesting moment in the trip as it enabled us to understand more about the history of Black people in the Caribbean islands and in the USA, with, among other things, an outstanding highlight on the slave trade;

· Last, Curacao Seaquarium displayed some very interesting tanks and creatures, taking advantage of the sea close vicinity to display, among other things, nurse and lemon sharks, tarpons, groupers and rays in almost natural environment with a possibility for divers to interact.

All in all, a very pleasant trip to “one of the best kept secrets of the Caribbean islands” which I would definitely recommend to divers travelling with their families.

If you would like to contact Philippe about diving or info on Curacao, his e-mail is: philippe.sigal@bnpparibas.com


Moscow is not a city but a whole world by Katia in Moscow

When I was a little girl and the trees seemed too big for me I was first taken to Red Square by my farther. It is a wonderful feeling to realize how beautiful and different could be the Country you live in. Being about five years old I was lucky to have captured this sensation and later on it only became deeper.

I remember looking at the glowing Kremlin stars and feeling that I was in the center of the whole world, of the universe. I am a student of Moscow University now and I still have this feeling. When twilight comes the Kremlin stars are the first to be seen, and only then Mars, Venus and the North Star.

I have always adored Red Square (Red in Old Russian meant beautiful). Being the symbol of the Country, a famous sight it is at the same time the place that helps you to remember where are your roots and that you belong here. It is amazing how one place could embody so many ancient monuments and edifices from different epochs: from the 16th up to the 20th centuries.

Faces of Moscow are many and various and your vision of the city depends on the way you look at it.

To the left of Red Square leads off Varvarka Street. If you happen round in it, the close company of the golden domes of ancient Churches, the Old English Court, the Chambers of Romanov boyars of handsome originality will let you feel a merchant of the epoch of Ivan the Terrible, dressed in long red caftan and wearing boots of coloured leather with silver lining at the heels.

And if you shall go a way down you are sure to be enshrouded into a special patriarchal atmosphere, which the stones of this district – Zamoskvorechye (Beyond the River district) – still breathe. In the 16th century this territory was used to grow fruit and vegetables for the Tsar’s table and for a long time it was settled only by poor peasants and craftsmen. This area commands a beautiful view of the Kremlin. The Kremlin… here I recall one story.

Some time ago I worked with Italian tourists and we were exploring the center of the city. After we had seen the Kremlin, which took about a couple of hours, one of them asked me: “Look, we’ve been here nearly all day long, we’ve seen so many churches and gardens and I am dying to see one more famous place. Could you tell me where is on Earth that very Kremlin, please? Where is that building? ”. I could not help laughing. He was asking me to show exactly what he has just seen. I told him so. Kremlin is not just one building, but a huge complex of fortification walls, towers, churches and gardens.

The highest point of the city – Vorobievy Hills (Sparrow Hills) is the sight for the main building of Moscow State University founded in the times of Tsarina Elizaveta. The observation platform situated on the same place commands a splendid view of entire Moscow. On a good day the city is laid out before you like an opened book: the Olympic dome, the home to the Olympic Games 1980s is the first thing that strikes the eye. The seven famous skyscrapers seen from afar give an original look to the city silhouette and emphasise its radial-circular layout.

Your ideas of turning into an aristocrat for a while are likely to take shape in Prechistenka Street. It preserves all of the stages in the city’s history. There are white stone chambers, noblemen’s mansions and luxurious houses for rent created with outstanding taste. So never mind you might notice this dignity look on the faces of your companions – they must have come under the street’s spell.

On a fine summer day through the opened windows there might even seep out the sounds of the grand piano and young ladies’ great babble of conversation about preparing for the ball.

Every street has its own story to tell you. You just have to listen to it and keep your mind open on things. Each of us can find something of interest here.

From my mind a peculiar feature of Moscow is that this city maintaining eminent architectural ensembles of the bygone days manages to mix it with pure European signs of human achievements – prestigious hotels and fashionable restaurants, luxurious clubs and extravagant boutiques, which only adds a special flavour to it.

The title of this text holds certainly true of Moscow. The city is so huge that you may live in it your whole life and still not know it, still learn something new about it every day. But this is the stuff of life – to learn and let yourself be dazzled by the new, isn’t it?

Katia says: “I am studying foreign languages at Moscow University and I'm enjoying it very much as my profession is connected with people – that's why I've been an interpreter, tourist guide. And I love communicating with people from different countries, helping them to learn more about Russia, its history and culture”.

For more information, or to contact Katia, please e-mail her on: engmaria@mtu-net.ru


Visiting Cape Town for the first time by Geoff

Most visitors to Cape Town arrive by air and land at Cape Town's International Airport. The International terminal has recently been upgraded and facilities are good. The airport is about a twenty minute drive from the centre of Cape Town along the N2 freeway. For those brave people who like to drive themselves it is easy to hire a car as most car hire firms are represented at the airport.

Anybody who is used to driving on the right is in for a surprise. We don't! The Brits taught us to drive on the left. Please remember this as you could find yourself in trouble on the roads. BEWARE of the taxis. They drive like maniacs, stop anywhere and don't stop at traffic lights. The roads in and around town are good and well sign posted. If you know where you are going you should not get lost. That's easily said, I still get lost sometimes. You know us men, we don't like asking for directions.

Cape Town has three major access roads to get you in and out of town. The N1 which takes you to the north and the suburbs of Parow, Bellville and onto Paarl and the winelands if you keep on going. The N2, takes you along De Waal drive down Settlers way to the airport and Somerset West and if you keep going to Mosselbay via Sir Lowry's Pass. To avoid peak traffic do not drive along these roads from about 4.30 onwards in the afternoons. The third is the main road which takes you south through all the suburbs of Cape Town to Simonstown. Plenty of traffic lights, stop start driving and pedestrians. For shoppers there are some large shopping centres to visit.

Century City (Canal Walk) is the biggest and is found just off the N1 highway about 5 kilometres out of town. Here there are hundreds of shops to browse through. Do yourself a favour and wear your walking shoes when visiting Canal Walk. You will walk for miles and are sure to get sore feet. However, there are many restaurants and coffee shops to visit when you get tired, trust me you WILL! It is enormous with two levels and two shopping malls on each level. A shop-a-holics dream come true! While you are there take a boat ride on the canal and visit the bird hide on the island.

Cape Town itself has plenty to see and do. If you want to avoid driving, take a bus to the waterfront and visit the shops restaurants and pubs there. Many of the larger chain stores you find at Canal walk (Century City) are also represented at the Waterfront. The V & A Waterfront as it is named is part of Table Bay Harbour and is still used as a working harbour. Like boats? Take a cruise. Fancy a trip to Robben Island? They also leave from the harbour.

Cape Town has many places of interest within walking distance of the city centre.

I will list a few below.

· Museum and Planetarium found in the Gardens.

· The Gardens and the Art Gallery.

· Oceanarium in the Waterfront.

· The Castle of the Cape of Good Hope found close to the railway

station.

· Green Market Square with its permanent flea market.

· St Georges Cathedral.

Cape Town is relatively safe with most areas being monitored by surveillance cameras. There are however, those who will try their luck, so please keep all jewellery and valuables hidden under your clothing. It is not safe to walk around by yourself at night. It's Ok at the Waterfront, but not anywhere else. If you are driving keep your doors locked at all times and do not leave valuables where they can be seen, even when you are in the car.

The South African currency is Rand and cents. A British pound is the equivalent of about R16.00 and a US dollar about R10.50. If you are visiting Cape Town in summer, bring lots of beachwear and a hat. The sun is very dangerous. On the beaches use plenty of sunblock to prevent bad sunburn. Be careful of the rip tides on some of the beaches if you decide to have a swim.

Enjoy your trip. See you soon!

Geoff Fairman is the editor and publisher of Banker's Oldboy's Ezine, a free publication posted via email to your home computer weekly. To read more articles on Cape Town visit:

Brerrabbit-subscribe@topica.com


Volunteer with Save The Earth Network, Ghana

Save the Earth Network, founded in 1988, is a Ghana based NGO dedicated to promoting sustainable development, agro-forestry, environmental conservation, international solidarity and cultural immersion through voluntary work, eco-tourism and cultural tourism in Ghana. Our aims are to help reduce poverty, hunger, malnutrition, disease, illiteracy, drug abuse, unemployment, and environmental degradation that are increasingly becoming the order of the day in most parts of the developing world.

We are a membership-based organization and also a networking tool for environmental, social and economic development activists. We also offer travellers from abroad the most socially responsible, exciting and affordable eco-friendly alternative to mass tourism.

Ghana is an English speaking country on Africa's west coast with a population of over 18 million and over 92,099 square miles. Along much of the coast stretches a sandy, grass-and-shrub-covered plain. Behind it rises a moderately high plateau broken by forested hills and steep ridges. Ghana has a tropical climate with temperatures from 70 to 90 oF. Except for small European and Asian minorities, Ghanaians are people of many tribes. Most Ghanaians are Christians but there are many Moslems and others who hold animist beliefs.

We offer volunteer placements in areas that includes renovation and construction of school buildings and libraries for poor rural communities, teaching English language in foster homes and orphanages, HIV/AIDS prevention education, re-forestation and agro-forestry through tree planting and organic farming. No special skills, qualifications or previous experience is required of volunteers – all that is required is motivation, charisma, initiative, drive and the compassion to assist the underprivileged overcome their challenges and their struggle for dignity.

Volunteers can participate in most of the programs from a period of 4 weeks to 52 weeks or more. Volunteers work four days a week, from Monday to Thursday and can decide upon the amount of hours worked each day. The cost of participating in the voluntary work program is US$250 for 4 weeks. This charge covers board and lodging and help towards the running of our organisation. Volunteers stay with host families in homes with electricity and water. We can offer a 25% discount on the cost of volunteers who would like to participate for a period of more than 8 weeks.

We also have a holiday program where people can stay with host families for a holiday, cultural exchange, relaxation and recreation or to learn the local language. The charge for this, including board and lodging is US $250 for three or four weeks. Special discounts are available for longer stays.

We offer guided three day general tours each Friday, Saturday and Sunday for volunteers and those who are interested in seeing some of the tourist attractions in Ghana. The cost of this is US $100 for the tour guide for the three days plus the costs of bus, food and hotels – all of which can be advised upon.

We also organise unique eco-tourism programs in Ghana in conjunction with tour operators in Ghana. Our eco-tourism focuses on local cultures, wilderness adventures, personal growth and learning new ways to live in our vulnerable planet. We focus on travelling to destinations where the floral, fauna, and cultural heritage are the primary attractions.

Areas of eco-tourism which we cover includes small group hiking, river rafting and canoeing, villages and beaches, culture and photo tours, traditional stories, historic sites, traditional drumming and dances, traditional houses, trekking, animal sanctuaries, nature tourism, exotic natural habitats, scenes of spectacular natural beauty etc. the cost of joining is US $200 a week including food (at restaurants) and accommodation (at hotels) and transportation (bus) and professional tour guide's charge. Participants experience rich cultural immersion and unique hospitality. It is fun, worthwhile and rewarding.

People who would like to participate in any of our programs should please contact us for more information, contact: Edgar Asare or Eben Mensah at Save the Earth Network, P.O. Box CT 3635, Cantonments, Accra, Ghana. West Africa. Tel: 233-21-667791, Fax: 233-21-231485.Email:ebensten@yahoo.com


This e-newsletter

Did you know?…you are one of around 6,500 subscribers who receive this e-newsletter each month. 53% of you live in the United States, 22% in the UK, 4% in Canada, 3% in Australia and 2% in Poland. We have subscribers in another 145 countries, ranging from Uzbekistan to British Antarctic Territory. A big thank you to all of you – and don't forget, drop the Beetle a line about your travels, hints and tips, travel gripes, travel fun etc! This is an e-newsletter for you, by you! Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk.


First Stop – Bangkok by Ingrid Styles

As I proceeded through the terminal at Bangkok's International Airport I felt the warm air greet me and a rush of excitement tickled my stomach. This was the first destination of my journey around the globe, smiling I thought to myself 'Welcome to the rest of the world!'

Cruising down the highway into the city the vast mass of buildings as far as the eye can see in all directions makes Bangkok seem a little overwhelming at first. For most jet lagged backpackers the Kho San Road is usually the first port of call, I however was lucky to have a free place to stay in Thong Lo on the other side of town.

After catching up on a few lost zeds I was taken to a Thai restaurant. I had never tasted Thai food so good. All the ingredients were so fresh and beautifully served, I am normally a fussy eater but on this occasion I wanted to try everything. If you like rice or noodles there is almost every combination to suit everybody.

Tip: Watch out for the chillies, Thai food can be very spicy!

After dinner we went to meet some of the locals. Apparently Thai people have very long names so they give nicknames to make things easier. I have a tendency to forget names at the best of times, that evening I met Jo, Bo and O. I got terribly mixed up. 'Who was who again?'

The city's name itself comes from Bang Makok meaning 'Place of Olive Plums' taken from Bangkok's original site. The Thais however call it 'Krung Thep' meaning 'City of Angels', a far more desirable name and of course why not.

Bangkok became the capital of Thailand only as recently as 1782 after the Burmese attacked the capital at Ayuthaya in 1767. Now with a population of about 10 million, spreading across 330 sq km. For such a young city you get the impression that it has learnt to run before it could walk. The natural landscape is completely flat of which little is left exposed in the protruding mass of high rise buildings and temples.

93% of the Thai population are practicing Theraveda Buddhists, so our sightseeing started at the Grand Palace home to Royalty, government offices and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Every year there are three grand ceremonies for the changing of the Emerald Buddha's seasonal costume.

Tip: When entering a temple you must always remember to remove your shoes and not point your feet towards the Buddha when sitting.

Next was the Vimanek Mansion the biggest golden teak building in the world that has traditional Thai dancing shows next to the canal. I discovered that Bangkok used to be known as the Venice of the east. Only the spectacular Temples and Royal Palaces were built on the original land. During my stay I saw little evidence left to suggest this was ever so, however during the rainy season Bangkok often floods and ironically the streets go back to being rivers once more.

Our Last stop for the day Wat Pho the temple of the largest leaning Buddha in the world (46 metres in length). Also home to the reputable Thai massage school and what better way to end the day than leaning back yourself and receiving a massage. After an hour or two with a few pops, twists and cracks you feel very refreshed. As you go back out to the bustling streets the urban metropolis hits you once more and you ask yourself 'Did that sanctuary really exist in the midst of all of this?' Nearby the Kho San Road, the backpackers' main drag, there are bars, Internet cafes, travel agents, shops, stalls and lots of cheap accommodation, all busy with travellers coming and going.

All over Bangkok there are thousands of market stalls cluttering the streets. Tables and chairs lay along the pavement under patchy homemade canopies. Often you have to dodge yourself out into the hectic traffic in order to get past these obstacle courses. And as for crossing the road it sometimes it can seem like an eternity waiting for a gap in the traffic.

At the end of the reliable Skytrain on the Sukumvit line is the enormous Chatuya weekend market. We went with the intention of buying one pair of sandals but I could not believe the bargains and ended up buying three, so much for travelling light. The designer imitations or factory seconds you find all over Bangkok are so well made that no one can tell the difference and at a fraction of the price you just got to have them.

Tip: Haggle, you will definitely not pay the original asking price.

Thai people are more than happy to help whether it is to practice their English or to make a quick buck. No matter where you are or where you are going in Bangkok there is always someone offering a cheap ride. One evening five of us squashed into the back of a tuk tuk (a small three wheeled two stroke) and of we raced to Pat Pong. Night markets fill the side streets, bars and clubs with ladies that do all sorts of things with their private parts. Out of curiosity we took a look. Ping-pong balls, razor blades, bananas, etc within five minutes we walked out our drinks barely touched, that was enough for us thanks! Hum…City of Angels?

The great thing about Bangkok is not only is it very affordable with plenty to do in the big city but also it is very easy to get out. For a day trip, there is the beach at Pattaya, the Ancient ruins at Ayuthaya or the popular boat markets near the famous River Kwai. 1-2hrs by plane or an overnight bus or train will take you to Thailand's beautiful southern beaches, northern rainforests or ancient temples. It has been recognised that Thailand is regarded as one of the safest countries to visit in Asia if not the world and for the inexperienced traveller starting out, it is probably the best place to get adjusted to an unfamiliar culture.

If you'd like to get in touch with Ingrid, she's currently toiling away in a banana factory in Cairns right now, and the Beetle is sure that she would appreciate an e-mail! Ingrid's e-mail address is: ingrid_styles@hotmail.com


London:

There was no London meeting in August, but we will be back on Saturday 7th September when Marion Bull will be talking about her recent travels, “Travelling with the Tuareg” in the Southern Algerian Sahara and rock paintings of the Tassili N'Ajjer.

Julian Webster will be sharing his thoughts and slides: “India – a Kaleidoscope of Memories, Moments and Surprises.

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back on Saturday 1st September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotter Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk


New York:

HOLLAND BY BIKE! Rob Lewis, one of our own, will be giving a slide show and lecture about Holland and perhaps select areas of England and Ireland. Come join us for our Sept. kick off meeting! Should be amazing! Away from the tourist trail, the real Holland of dunes, rivers, dikes, canals, lowlands, windmills and castles can be reached via the Landelijk Fietsplatform (LF) routes – 3000 miles of long distance cycle routes. Robert will be giving a slide show and discussing the routes, sights, and stresses of trying to circle the Netherlands during a 7 day self guided tour. Robert Lewis is a recent arrival to NY, having spent 8 years living in Hong Kong working as an equity research analyst focusing on Asian technology companies. Robert has travelled extensively throughout Europe and Asia, and has taken his bicycle to Australia, New Zealand and Japan.

New York meetings are held at The Wings Theater, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month at 4 pm.


Ontario:

For information on Ontario meetings, please contact: Svatka Hermanek:

shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.


Texas:

Saturday August 10th, we had the fabulously informative Eric Dondero as speaker. His topic was: “How to Learn Any Language Fast”. Eric is a Multilingual Interpreter and Certified Language Instructor from Houston. He speaks over 20 languages and can communicate in another 20 more. His new book is the “Worldwide Multilingual Phrase Book; Survival Skills for Over 40 Languages”

This month (September 14) we will have two guest speakers. Our own traveling girl, Emily Naberhaus, will show us how to pack for long trips with just a backpack. Sue Howell, a new focused market Travel Agent, will discuss her decision to specialize.

Future meetings: October 12th and November 9th

A reminder that Texas meetings will start one hour earlier, at 2pm and not 3pm.

Meetings are held at 2pm at the New Braunfels Public Library, 700 E. Common Street in New Braunfels, Texas. The meeting ends at 5 p.m. If you would like to continue travel talk on a more informal basis, we plan to adjourn to the Hoity-Toit, a local New Braunfels establishment. If anybody would like to enquire about meetings or help Christina, please contact her on: texas@globetrotters.co.uk


London Markets: Covent Garden

Most Londoners see Covent Garden as a tourist trap, but they still go there, to eat and drink or pause to watch the latest jugglers once in a while. (There are actually some pretty good bars and restaurants in the area – head for Earlham St, Shorts Gardens, or better still, cross over Shaftsbury Avenue and head for Soho – no shortage of good eateries there!) For the tourists, there are the tarot readers and fortune tellers, the henna tattoo artists and the London teddy bears, but actually, a Londoner might buy some unusual silver earrings or something else you can't find elsewhere in the West End. If you are going to eat in Covent Garden, avoid the places close to the piazza. The only exception is Chez Gerrard (called rather grandly, Chez Gerrard at the Opera Terrace!) a decent enough steak-frites kind of place on the corner, overlooking the piazza with an almost impossible to find entrance.

Covent Garden market used to be a vegetable market but moved from Covent Garden to Nine Elms in Battersea in 1974. The old market halls have been preserved and are now home to stalls selling quintessentially English goods. It is open Monday – Sunday from 10am to 7pm.

The old Apple Market in the North Hall showcases antiques on Mondays and arts and crafts from Tuesday to Sunday, selling everything from jewellery and clothing to silverware and pottery. South of the piazza is the Jubilee Market, which sells downmarket clothes, shoes and household goods. The piazza itself is a great place to catch some of London's best street performers and buskers, although keep an eye on your wallets and bags.

For more info, visit: www.coventgardenmarket.co.uk


An Afternoon at Alhambra by Matthew Doughty

The recovery from Rock Vivé's excesses was complete and it was time to see something of Andalucia's history and culture. Seville and Cordoba were considered but as our circumstances were only good for the day, the less distant option of Al Hambra was chosen – not to demean the site in anyway, as we were greatly struck by Domingos's whole hearted endorsement of our plans.

To avoid driving during the near 30 degrees C heat and to give ourselves a chance to enjoy our explorations, Alan and I hurriedly set off in our storm dirtied green Micra across the countryside, in search of the motorway into Granada. Much of this countryside, rural Spain at its' finest according to my imagination, was the perfect antidote to a hectic UK working life – whitewashed villages, rustic red earth, vegetable growing small holdings, rows of Olive trees climbing away from the roads and a sense of slowness! Ventas de Zafarraya, Alhama de Granada and Buenavista passed by all too quickly, as we were drawn into Granada's contrasting metropolitan modernity. It took all our patience to be able to follow the purple Al Hambra signs though the city and not get driven crazy by local driving habits – with hindsight it seems that my navigating took us through the heart of the city when we should have followed the well laid out ring road! There again I've often preferred journeys to destinations…

Eventually we, like many others, wove our way up towards the entrance and way from the noise of modern life. Perched on the cooler foothills of the Sierra de la Nevada, Al Hambra watches westerly across Granada and is perfectly located for generations of Moors and Spaniards to take a strategic view of this landscape. Like many well managed destinations, we visitors are only allowed in as controlled flow, rather than the mass free for alls that can ruin any experience. This gives the visitor time to enjoy the site and gave us time to enjoy one of Spain's greatest attributes – a lazy lunch outdoors! As when approaching Rome's antiquities, we were caught by fortune tellers on the way in to the site – in less than clear Spanish I think they promised me love, children, a happy career and a long life…all for a sprig of some unnamed bush and 5 Euros! Escaping their clutches was probably harder than storming Al Hambra itself!

Once inside, countless footsteps led us along the well maintained paths towards the many palaces of Al Hambra. Along the way I was struck by how the grounds are still so imaginatively maintained and how much water is used not only to irrigate but enhance the setting of the buildings themselves. No doubt the use of water in such a way during the Nasrid Dynasty (1238 – 1492) helped illustrate the power and wealth of the ruling Sultans. In spite of expressing such a political dominance, the buildings themselves bloom in highlighting what care and thought was taken in their construction and subsequent life…the current authorities describe the art of such efforts but I prefer to enjoy their splendid practical existence.

Though comparatively young, the palace of the Charles V stands out as a magnificent intrusion into the centre of the five, maybe seven, Moorish palaces. Its' square structure boldly enforces Christianity's eventual dominance across Spain and yet as a building masks an exquisite inner auditorium, beautifully marshalled with marbled pillars supporting an extravagant walk way and wide sweeping staircases. The acoustics and setting make it the perfect venue for summer concerts. Frustratingly I could not capture this entire image in one frame – my small camera just could not provide the necessary dimensions, so memory will have to serve me for the time being!

In contrast the Moorish palaces depict much more about the general life of the community that existed within. Although the fortifications of the Alcazaba stand majestically tall in guarding the approach across the Rio Darro, it is the inner buildings that take your breath away. Courtyard after courtyard rolls at you, enhancing the sense of peace that is ever present as we wandered slowly through – if the tourist noise is low enough, it seems as though you can feel past lives. At the centre of each courtyard sits some water feature – be it an ornate fountain surrounded by trees or multi coloured fish swimming long pools. Beautifully coloured and formed ceilings funnel light into the smallest recesses and small benches, built into the walls, allow views out across the grounds. Even the traditional Arabic style wooden doors reinforce a different world, a different Spain.

Now I could not be considered a gardener in any sense of the word but even I appreciated the gardens of the Generalife. These gardens sit across from Al Hambra and as you are slowly led up winding paths towards a small peak, a wonderful contrast exists between the red brick of the buildings and the vibrant and varied colours of the plant life within. Hedges mimic the walled fortifications and climbing roses arch across fountains. Vines climb up and along pergolas to provide shelter, which seemed to please our snoring neighbour as we sat to take in some of the scenery. Much of the ongoing restoration continues within the buildings at the centre of the gardens and yet there is still much to marvel at, particularly the amazing use of water yet again. Rows of fountains jet water down into cascading pools and channels seem to carry streams where gravity shouldn't take it.

Alan and I never discovered the source of so much water during our visit, but the masterful landscaping of Al Hambra certainly helped to recharge our weekend weary bodies and conclude a marvellous afternoon.

Matthew can be contacted on: chair@globetrotters.co.uk


National Airlines Announces $1 Fares for September 11 Travel

The Frommers' August e-newsletter discussed Spirit Airline's giving away of all seats on September 11.

Now, National Airlines is following suit; the seats aren't free, but they're only a single buck, and all the money collected will be donated to a suitable charity. Vegas-based National is also offering first-class seats for their usual low upgrade fees–plus the extra dollar–meaning you can fly first-class from New York City to Vegas for only $201. You can take advantage of this deal if you can depart out of NYC, Newark, Philadelphia, Washington, D.C., Miami, West Palm Beach, Chicago, Dallas/Fort Worth, Seattle, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Reno or Las Vegas. When Spirit made their announcement, all 13,000 seats were taken in under 24 hours. For more on-line info, see www.nationalairlines.com/itn/index.asp?page=webspecials.asp.

You can book online at www.nationalairlines.com,or at any of the big three booking sites; www.travelocity.com, www.orbitz.com, or www.expedia.com.

Source: newsletters@frommers.com


Holiday for a good cause in Tanzania

Trade Aid a charitable trust whose aim is to create sustainable employment in Mikindani, Tanzania are organising a group trip to The Old Boma at Mikindani, at the end of October. With only seven rooms, The Boma has a Country House Hotel feel, but it does mean the number of places are strictly limited.

Special airfares have been negotiated with British Airways and Air Tanzania. As a Friend of Mikindani, and reader of this e-newsletter, you will enjoy special rates at the Boma, a beautiful 19th century German fort, faithfully and lovingly restored. The group will finish with 3 nights in Zanzibar.

The price for a total of 14 nights comprising 11 nights at the Old Boma and 3 nights in Zanzibar will be from £995, on a B&B basis (apart from the excellent food at The Boma, there are other places to eat close by, although half board is available for a small supplement) and is dependent on the standard of hotel selected in Zanzibar. The price includes free excursions every other day such as snorkelling and swimming at the scenic bay at Msimbati and a trip to the Rovuma river where you can watch hippos and crocs. The flight departs on Saturday 26th Oct from Heathrow on a non-stop BA flight to Dar es Salaam arriving at 0640 with a connecting 0800 flight to Mtwara. A Trade Aid representative will accompany the flight and the Zanzibar portion will have a guide. Return to Heathrow is on Sunday 10th Nov at 1715 on a non-stop flight from Dar es Salaam.

If you are interested, please contact: tradeaid@netcomuk.co.uk or visit: www.mikindani.com

The Beetle says that this is an excellent deal, and knows the Boma: it really is quite beautiful and the rooms are fabulous, some with hard carved mahogany beds, and white muslin abounds. There's a pool, stunning views of the bay, great cocktails as you watch sundown, good service and attentiveness – what more could you ask for!


Curacao: the perfect diving spot for family men&and family women, Part 1

The whole story started when I wanted to go diving with the manta rays in Tobago. Unfortunately, at that time, the trip for a family of five like mine proved out to be a little bit too pricey for my shallow purse. It is then that the owner of Aquadreams, the very professional Gene Dold (Aquadreams which has its web site onwww.aquadreams.com, is a travel agency based in Miami and specialised in diving packages, with a focus on Caribbean islands; its prices are very much lower than comparable England based travel agencies and the service offered is first class [e.g., a specific email is sent to you to give you the UPS reference of a parcel that has been sent to you; the tickets for the trip came with a lot of documentation on the island and on the diving there; all questions are answered at once]), came with a suggestion which sounded more or less like “Why not try Curacao, one of the best kept secrets of the Caribbean islands?”

After some investigations (among other things, best thanks to Nigel Turner and Iona Hill who gave some very comprehensive answers to some of the questions which I had put on a divers' forum), I decided to give it a go and I must say that I have not had any single regret about it at any time.

If I were to describe the diving in Curacao at the Sunset Beach Waters Resort in a few words, it probably would be: “Easy relaxed diving on a magnificent resident reef, best dived at nights when all other divers are asleep, leaving you free to focus on what you want”.

But to give some inner feeling about diving in Curacao, let me try to make you share the sensations during one of these night dives:

“It is 9:00 o'clock p.m. and the beach is completely empty and pitch dark, except for the projector light and for the spare bulbs that are kept running at all times around the diving club, just to help the divers get ready. My buddy and myself are strangely silent, probably due to some primal nocturnal fears. When we arrive at the diving club, as agreed upon with Harry, the Dutch owner of the diving club, two tanks are waiting for us, bright yellow against the surrounding darkness, our own little lighthouses. We retrieve our equipment from the club locker and we gear up without exchanging a word, focusing on the “task” ahead.

After the usual checks (strange how at nights, such routine checks are even more important than during daytime to keep your mind from wandering onto more sinister thoughts), we walk the few meters of white sand that separate us from the sea and easily enter the refreshing waters within the boundaries of an artificially made lagoon. After taking our compass bearings, we hover over the ripples of the sand to the open sea, encountering in our way some ghostly grey snappers (Lutjanus griseus), which quickly swim out of sight.

Soon after, we come across the remains of a small plane sunk on purpose for try-dives. In the light of our torches, it comes out brightly lit in orange by all the orange cup corals (Tubastraea coccinea) that festoon it and only open at night to reveal their striking colour. This is a truly magnificent sight!

But, it is time for bigger things and we swim away to deeper grounds. A couple of fin strokes take us to the edge of the shallow waters and we peep into what we know to be almost infinite depths (during daytime, we have been able to get a glimpse of what lies down there and it seemingly goes down forever and ever, up to…150 meters, according to the local divers). We glide effortlessly down until we reached the agreed upon depth of 20 meters where we adopt a more horizontal course.

The first thing that strikes me is the variety of corals: although I am not an expert, I can easily make out more than ten different varieties in terms of forms, colours or shapes. Everywhere around them, hundreds of marine creatures are busy finding their way and food, from small, transparent larvae that hover in the open and which you can only notice at night when your torch lights them, up to some very large specimen of Caribbean spiny lobsters (Panulirus argus) and hairy clinging crabs (Mithrax pilosus), very similar to spider crabs. In between these two extremes, when looking carefully in all nooks and crannies and waiting long enough to detect movements, I can see little banded coral shrimps (Stenopus hispidus) which are commonly seen at cleaning stations, some Pederson cleaner shrimps (Periclimenes pedersoni) with their transparent bodies and their purple legs, several blue-eye hermits (Paguristes sericeus) as well as a delicate banded clinging crab (Mithrax cinctimanus) in the middle of a giant anemone (Condylactis gigantea).

Then, all of a sudden, a startling spot of bright turquoise colour catches my eye and I see a specimen of a juvenile Caribbean Reef octopus (Octopus briareus). For some unknown reason, he likes my torch and decides to spend some time playing like a young pup with me, swimming back and fro between the reef and me. Eventually, it disappears in the darkness below, changing colour at the very last moment from its original turquoise to a dark orange.

Then, something more sinister then slowly edges its way in the area lit by my torch and a hunting purplemouth moray (Gymnothorax vicinus) comes to investigate all interstices to find its “catch of the day”. The way this moray thoroughly and methodically investigates all potential hides, one after the other, leaving no ground unexplored, gives me the creeps and leaves me sorry for the fish that have hidden there. All of sudden, it does not seem a good idea anymore for a fish to hide in the reef during the night, especially if you consider the number of morays that hunt there and their methodical hunting process.

Other morays like the spotted morays (Gymnothorax moringa) which I observed during the same night dive, also seem to hunt in a similar pattern, gliding stealthily and deathly from one hole to the next, up and down. Later, I even get the chance to watch one when it catches a prey: in a split second, it is over. The frenetic moves stop, the water calms down and the moray resumes its quest for some more food.

By the time we have seen all these things, we have to get back to shore: using the shallow wreck of the airplane as an indicator to the way out, we are soon back to the club where it is difficult to acknowledge that already an hour and a half has gone by in what had seemed to be a ten-minute dive at the most.

Next time for sure, I will bring an underwater camera!