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Jacqui in South America

Buenas dias de Buenos Aires, todo del mundi! Can’t believe how far I’ve travelled and where I have been in the last four weeks! It seems no time since I was sitting in Pucon, Chile and writing to you about all the things I had done in Bolivia and here I am in Buenos Aires. The time has flown and been full of highlights so I shall just have to be as concise as I can or this email will be a book in itself.

After leaving Pucon, we had the trip from hell to get started on the Carraterra Austral (Southern Highway) and the first really bad weather of the trip. It poured! And blew! and the ferry was so many hours late that we thought we would have to retrace out route and enter Argentina near Bariloche (they told me later that this area was famous for its cherry brandy chocolates – damn!) but at the last minute we caught the ferry. Then got the next ferry which was also running late and spent the whole night trying to find space to sleep in the truck, whilst on the ferry, and then while our intrepid drivers drove through the night to make to next planned camp at dawn. We put up our tents in the rain and crawled into them and didn’t come out til noon.

There was a spectacular glacier nearby (which probably explained why it was so cold!) and the rain continued. Next day was more of the same but the rain held off for short periods and that included when we stopped to set up camp beside a gorgeous lake, and the third day was a repeat too with no let up at camp time. I was cooking that night and had the privilege of sleeping on the truck but first I had to get everyone else off, as no one wanted to go out in the rain. Last day on the highway and the day was clear and bright and we could finally appreciate why our driver was so keen to come this way. Stunning! Amazing! Beautiful! No words can tell you how lovely it all was. Fields of lupins, wild llama, birds, cattle, not very many people and even less traffic, blue skies and sunshine. Well worth the three days of rain and perhaps appreciated even more because of them.

We crossed into Argentina for a few days to visit the Patagonian area of El Chalten and Calafate that are known for their mountains and proximity to the Perito Moreno Glacier and Lago Argentino respectively. I went hiking in El Chalten and managed a long days walking so my ankle must be all but healed as it still aches when I am tired. And we took a tour out to the glacier and it was thoroughly worth seeing. I took loads of pictures so – you have been warned!

After this wee sojourn, I went back to Chile for the best part of a week so that we could visit the National Park of Torres del Paine. It was spectacular, glorious and any other superlative you can think of. I tried to do a hike there that out leader claimed was ´not technically difficult´ but only got half way as he failed to qualify his statement with ´but it’s all uphill¨. Great day though and I had a great picnic view when I stopped to have my lunch.

After Torres, it was back in the truck and head further south for Tierra del Fuego. By this time the days were very long and even though it was cold at night, the days were sunlit and generally warm, so, eating at 10pm was not unusual. The mornings were cold and the early starts were not always welcome but the scenery changed every mile so it was always exciting to get further south. We took a ferry across the Magellan Straits and onto Tierra del Fuego, crossed into Argentina half way across the island and got to Ushaia with no trouble at all.

More camping and a boat trip around the harbour to see the wildlife and the shores of this remote place. It is a pretty place, with multicoloured houses and built around the bay at the foot of the mountains that ring it. The weather there changes by the minute and is never the same for long and the people I met were friendly and from all over Argentina. Because of the unstable nature of the peso here, things were much cheaper than a month ago so I did a bit of shopping. Great fun and not something I have done a lot of this trip. Honest!

After all this it was time to head north and we got to Buenos Aires in four days of very long drives with only a visit to a penguin colony as distraction. The country could not have been more different to the Chile Patagonia we were used to. The land was flat and no mountains or trees to break up the horizon. The roads were generally good but like outback Australian roads were long and straight and seemed to go on forever.

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. BA was a welcome break and despite our concerns for the ongoing political problems there, we encountered no violence except what we saw on TV. A city tour, a group meal for two birthdays, a Tango show and it was time to move on. I could have spent longer and would liked to have visited Uruguay, but the need to move on and the lack of a visa made that impossible. We left BA in sunshine but the rains soon caught us. It cleared for the evening but at 5am the heavens opened and once again, my being on the truck saved me from the fate of my co-travellers. The tents fell over as the torrential downpour undermined the pegs and soaked everything: soggy people, sleeping bags and possessions straggled onto the truck. We skipped breakfast in an effort to out run the storm and finally did so at about 2pm that day.

We got to Puerta Iguazu and stayed in cabanas as everything was too wet to use. It took about a week before everything was thoroughly dry as we have well and truly hit the tropics now and evening and morning rain are the norm rather than the exception. The Iguazu Falls are spectacular from both sides of the Brazil/Argentine border and I feel privileged to have seen the big three: Niagara, Iguazu and Victoria. All amazing but I have to give the honours to Victoria Falls. After Iguazu, it was time to head for Rio. Another three long days driving to get to the town of Paraty, where we all got to chill out a little (and clean the truck, our clothes and repack and reorganise ready for the next leg of the journey). And now we are in Rio. It”s hot. It”s humid and it”s Carnival! Watch this space!

Thanks Jacqui and keep us posted! If anyone would like to contact Jacqui, her e-mail is: jacquitrotter@yahoo.com

What have you seen on your travels? Drop a line to the Beetle!


Chernobyl

The United Nations last week identified Chernobyl as being an eco-tourism venue of the future. Wildlife has started to come back to the area after the terrible radioactive contamination. Moose, red deer, beavers and lynx have all been spotted in the woods along with flowers and birds. Would you go?



Mutual Aid

Paula would be grateful for some help or advice: she is a single female aged 43 and a diabetic who wants information on travel to Ireland. She is planning a trip either next August or December. She is interested in music, Irish culture, meeting Reform Jews in the area and would be grateful for any advice on the best places to visit. If you are a music lover please tell her where the best CD stores are and where she can hear the finest Irish music. She is interested in classical music, Irish folk, pub music and pop.

She also wants information on safe accommodations, diabetic food spots, where the nicest Jewish temples are and best times to visit.

Please e-mail or write to: Paula Hurwitz, 7545 Murray Hill Road, #832, Columbia, MD 21046 or e-mail phurwitz@erols.com

Need help? Want a travelling buddy or advice about a place or country – want to share something with us – why not visit our Mutual Aid section of the Website: Mutual Aid



New York:

Hola from Laurie!

Our next meeting will be March 2, 2002. The usual: 4:00pm at the Wings Theater, 154 Christopher Street.

The subject is MEXICO! I will be in Mexico myself at the end of February but will be back in time for our March meeting… Matt Link is back again! And along with Gretchen Kelly, they will explain the interior of the Yucatan peninsula with an emphasis of staying at small villages near archeological sites in lieu of staying at the plastic, commercial areas like Cancun. They will delve into the mysteries of the Maya, touching upon their spiritual practices and history in the area, as well as present day problems modern Maya face in Mexico. They will also be visiting the historic town of Merida as well, one of the loveliest towns in the country. We will have slides as well as some arts and crafts to pass around. Both Matt and Gretchen have attended the Maya World Conference, a meeting of all the countries that have Mayan populations. So this will undoubtedly be a slide show and lecture not to miss!

Gretchen Kelly is the News Editor for Business Traveler magazine and the travel editor for Design Times magazine. Recent feature stories Gretchen has worked on include profiles of Buenos Aires (where she interviewed Eva Peron's living relatives), Aboriginal Australia and the story of porcelain from Dresden to Chungking. She is currently at work on a feature article about Jakarta, Indonesia. For those of you who did not meet Matt at previous meetings, he has been traveling since the age of twelve, when he boarded his family's boat for five years and sailed around the Pacific including the Philippines, Papua New Guinea, Micronesia, the Solomon Islands, and New Zealand, where he attended high school. He hasn't stopped since, having visited dozens of countries in Eurasia and living for a number of years in both Hong Kong and Hawaii, where he ran kayak tours and published the guidebook Rainbow Handbook Hawaii. He now lives in New York where he works with Arthur Frommer as Associate Editor of the magazine Budget Travel. See you all soon. Adios!

New York meetings are held at The Wings Theater, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich Stand Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month at 4 pm.


Not to be Seen Dead In?

The British Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO) in the UK is advising against all travel to Afghanistan, Iraq, Pakistan, Tajikistan and Yemen until further notice. Reprisals are also feared against Western travellers in other parts of the world including the Chechen Republic, East Timor, Indonesia, Macedonia, Somalia, the West Bank and parts of Albania.

FCO Website.



Fly Me to the Moon!

Have you got £15 million to spare? There have been two space tourists so far: 61-year-old American businessman Dennis Tito paid to go into space on a Russian space vessel. Mark Shuttleworth the South African business tycoon has just finished his week's training and is set to become the world's second paying space traveller when he visits the International Space Station aboard a Russian ship in April.

Up until now, NASA has opposed private individuals paying to go into space. Until now, that is. NASA has now published a set of rules which all potential space travellers must meet before being allowed into a spacecraft.

NASA's chief astronaut, Charles Precourt, who helped draw up the rules, said: 'We don't want to embarrass our space partners by having [a tourist] who would be so controversial that it would be an insult to the other partners to fly them because of some behavioural background that was considered distasteful.”



Ontario:

The last meeting was on January 18th: Ann Dohler talked about her recent trip to Peru, the Galapagos and the Amazon. The next meeting is on Friday, March 15th at 8 p.m. Bruce Weber will be giving a “SAMPLER OF YUCATAN”.

For information on Ontario meetings, please contact: Svatka Hermanek: shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Toronto GT Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m. (Wilton St is a very short E-W street south of and parallel to Esplanade, east of Jarvis – just around the corner from St.Lawrence Market)


Machu Picchu

According to Alt Wire OmPlace, bad news could come to Machu Picchu. There is a proposal to build a funicular from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu to make the site more accessible and increase the average visitor rate from 2000 to 8000/day. UNESCO and other groups are lobbying to block the construction, which would cut a swath of rainforest down the mountain significantly deteriorating the view. Anyone remember the Celestine Prophecy? Source: omplace.com/



Don't Upset The Elephants!

They really do have long memories! Research by the Massachusetts Institute of Technology has shown that elephants have very long memories, large brains and are highly emotional. Orang-utans are the cleverest of non human primates and can perform complex tasks such as opening doors by choosing the right key from a bunch of keys. Squirrels have a brain proportionally 1.5 times bigger than humans and can remember where they have buried 10,000 nuts!



Texas:

It was a marvelous meeting: Chris from Austin did a first class slide show of the Greek Isles and provided a map for each of us so we would know where we were for each slide. We exchanged travel advice, ideas and materials. A bunch went to the Hoity Toit afterwards for a great time. 21 people attended the February meeting, 5 of whom were new. Once again, thanks to Pauline and Frommer for helping to publicise the Texas meetings – except, now Christina says she really needs a secretary!

In the March Globies, Chris will give a slide show of Turkey and tabletop discussion of 2/3 night great get-aways. After the meeting, for anyone who'd like to continue the discussions, we will adjourn to a local hostelry, to be advised at the meeting.

Meetings are held at 3pm at the New Braunfels Public Library, 700 E. Common Street in New Braunfels, Texas. The meeting ends at 5 p.m. If you would like to continue travel talk on a more informal basis, we plan to adjourn to the Hoity-Toit, a local New Braunfels establishment. If anybody would like to enquire about meetings or help Christina, please contact her on: texas@globetrotters.co.uk


London's Wobbly Bridge is Open!

Yes, the Millennium Bridge is open once again! It is the first pedestrian river crossing in London for over 100 years. The 325 metre bridge links St. Paul's Cathedral on the north bank of the River Thames to the Tate Modern and Shakespeare's Globe Theatre on the south side of the river. Its taken 20 months and £5m ($7.5m) to add industrial strength shock absorbers to make the wobbly bridge walkable. But it is open, and despite the exceedingly inclement weather (hailstones and bone chilling wind), the Beetle and Padmassana made the crossing the day after re-opening in search of fish and chips at the local pub nearby!



London Markets: Borough Market

Borough Market is the Beetle's second favourite London market.

It is a farmers market in south east London and opens noon- 6pm on Fridays and 9am-4pm on Saturdays – it is closed from Sunday to Thursday. It has a great atmosphere, the vendors are really friendly and you'll meet many local Londoners who live near by. You can easily spend an hour or two wandering around, even if you really don't want to buy anything! Parts of Bridget Jones Diary were filmed here.

You can browse amongst colourful and fragrant stalls selling flowers of all descriptions, coffees, fruit, organic raspberries, cognac chocolate truffles, piquant mango chutneys, obscure breads and cheeses, veg and meat. It's quite common to ask for free tasting samples! There are quite a few traders who specialise in organic produce. There are stalls selling non food products such as good quality home made candles and bric a brac.

If you are peckish (hungry), you can buy food at the market and there are a number of excellent pubs close by. It is situated between Borough High Street, Bedale Street, Winchester Walk & Stoney Street, Borough SE10 or for info on the web, check out (http://www.londonslarder.org.uk). The closest tube and British Rail station is London Bridge.

Visiting Borough Market could be part of a Saturday stroll around southeast London, taking in maybe the Clink – an old jail, Vinopolis, a wine tasting experience and there are some very old pubs en route!

Want to tell us about your local market? Contact the Beetle

Next month: Colombia Road Flower Market


Jacqui in South America

La Paz seems like a long time a go but it was only a few short weeks.

Three days at high altitude and then we were off to even higher planes. Potosi was the first where we stayed in the town which claims to be the highest in South America and at 4900m, who am I to argue? Walking up the streets was hard work but the locals made it look easy as old ladies with loads on their back over took and disappeared from view before I had gone a quarter the distance. Galling! It is also a town known for its mountain of silver. The Spanish found this great wealth irresistible even to the point that they revoked a papal proclamation decrying the use of coca leaves by the indigenous peoples when they discovered that the use of said leaf meant the miners could work for long periods without food or sleep and did not complain about much.

Coca leaf is endemic in Bolivia and parts of Peru as a substance to chew or tea to drink. It staves off hunger, helps with the altitude, and generally makes a hard life seem more bearable. It was originally in Coca Cola and as a close cousin to cocaine has been extensively researched. I had some tea and all it did was make me pee but others chewed it and their mouths went numb. It is definitely an acquired taste!

Potosi is very grey but the people were friendly and the air was clean. Unlike the rivers which are polluted by the mining that continues today. Now, it is run as a co-operative and the working conditions leave everything to be desired. I did not go down the mines as I am a bit claustrophobic but those who did said it was amazing. After the loveliest days drive through multicoloured hills and valleys we got to Sucre. This is a Spanish colonial town that has the prettiest square and a nice feel about the place.

According to our drivers it was also the nicest hotel we will stay in. Very plush and friendly. Having had a birthday in Puno and another in La Paz we had a third in Sucre. Given our driver, Simon's, aversion to such things, we surprised him with a breakfast party complete with cake, champagne, balloons, presents and a full English breakfast. A good time was had by all – even the birthday boy! The trucks left us the next day and two drivers took them the long way round to meet us in Chile as we were off to cross the salt flats and the trucks would not have made it through the mud flats that lead into Chile.

A bus trip to Uyuni which took all day and we got up the next day to head off to Chile. First stop was to see the salt being shovelled off the flat and into tip-trucks. Due to the rains there was a shallow layer of water on the flat but that did not bother anyone as we got out and paddled around. It took three hours to drive out to a rocky island called Fish Island. This reflects its shape rather than the presence of any animal in the water. It is also covered in cacti, the oldest of which are 1200 – 1500 years old. Beautiful white blooms decorated some and they all grew up in strange and wonderful shapes.

By five in the afternoon our jeep had reached the shore nearest to San Juan, and we were hooning along to try and get there by dark. The reason for the rush was that we seemed to have gotten the most patient driver and the dodgiest jeep. It must have broken down six times and all of us had visions of being stuck there for hours. Nelson fixed it every time though, so no complaints. San Juan was a bit of a non-event. The lights go out at 10pm and although we heard after that there had been a disco, it's hard to give the notion credence. Beautiful stars though.

Next day was through dry country, and barren, but incredibly beautiful with it. Most is a protected area but it would be impossible to make a living there as nothing much grows. There were vicuñas and vizcachas (relatives of llamas and rabbits respectively) but not much else. We saw flamingos in coloured lakes and I took far too many photos. We had lunch in a snow storm at 5000m, and got to our nights accommodation in time for a hail storm. Excellent! Up at 4.30am the next morning to go see a geyser but I suspect the real reason is to make sure you have plenty of time to clear Chilean customs when you got there. In between we saw more coloured lakes and flamingos, mud pools and hot thermal springs for soaking feet in. All very good.

Crossing into Chile was not a problem despite the time factor and we were installed into our Christmas campsite by 2pm. That was December 23rd, and the next two days were spent cooking, eating, singing, sleeping, drinking and generally having a good time. On Dec. 26th I went down to Santiago on an overnight bus (whole journey took 24 hours) to get my visa sorted out for Brazil and then went back to meet the group for New Year at a place called La Serena. A good time was had by all and suddenly it was 2002.

Since then we have been to Santiago to collect new group members (our passenger group rose to 18 in number) and collect mail. Thank you to all my friends who wrote, it was much appreciated. Our group is now in Pucon, centre of the Chilean lake district, and watched over by the Osorno volcano which is happily puffing out smoke as I type. From here it is on to points south and Tierra del Fuego mid – January. While things in Argentina have been volatile, we are hoping that they will have calmed down before we get to Buenos Aires, and in order to spend more time in Chile, we will NOT be going to Paraguay. Rio in Carnival and I shall be there on February 9th.

That about brings you up to date. Life is never dull when travelling overland and I am looking forward to the challenges and adventures of the next few weeks

Thanks Jacqui and keep us posted! If anyone would like to contact Jacqui, her e-mail is: jacquitrotter@yahoo.com

What have you seen on your travels? Drop a line to the Beetle!


Cheap Air Tickets from the UK to France with Buzz

If you already live in the UK, or know that you will be in the UK in April, why not zip over to France? The low cost airline, Buzz is offering discounts on 15 routes from the UK to France.

You have to book by March 5th and the journey must be taken between 3 and 30 April 2002. Below are the (one way) prices they quote – the cost of the return is about the same!

From just £19 one way you can buzz off to Brest – Brittany, Caen – Normandy, Rouen – Normandy or Paris (CDG).

From just £24 one way you can discover the delights of Dijon – Burgundy, La Rochelle, Tours – Loire Valley, Limoges, Poitiers or Grenoble – Lyon.

From just £29 one way you can explore Bergerac – Dordogne, Bordeaux, Marseilles Provence, Toulon – St Tropez or Toulouse.

For full terms and conditions, or to book, visit www.buzzaway.com


Globetrotter Travel Award

Under 24? A member of Globetrotters Club? Interested in a £1,000 travel award?

Know someone who is? We have £1,000 to award each year for five years for the best submitted independent travel plan. Interested?

Then see our legacy page on our Website, where you can apply with your plans for a totally independent travel trip and we'll take a look at it. Get those plans in!!



All you wanted to know about the United Arab Emirates

Where is it and why go? The United Arab Emirates (UAE) is a collection of small states about 7 hours away from London. They have gained wealth from their oil reserves and are often associated with ex-pat oil workers. The UAE often hosts world class sporting events, such as the Desert Classic (golf), the Dubai Open (tennis), horse racing and rugby, to name but a few.

Abu Dhabi is the capital of the United Arab Emirates or UAE. It is the largest and richest state and widely known as the Garden City of the Gulf. Abu Dhabi began as a fishing and pearl diving centre, but is now one of the world's cleanest and most modern cities.

Dubai has always been known for its cheap duty free and the luxury cars it raffles off in the pink marble lined foyer of the duty free. It's now also a very popular holiday destination in its own right, boasting the world's first 6 star hotel, many other top notch hotels, golf courses, trips into the desert, a souk etc. You can still the old, traditional style of dhow plying up and down the creek that separates the city into two. Incidentally, Dubai's annual shopping festival takes place between 1st and 31st March when most stores offer significant discounts and savings!

Ras al Khaimah is on the northern tip of the UAE, only one hour away from Dubai. Here you can escape the busy crowds and commercialized shopping centres. Her you can find old forts and watchtowers, old villages and mountains.

Ajman is the smallest of the states and is some 25 minutes north of Dubai. It does not have any oil reserves, so it retains its traditional fishing culture.

A good tour of the UAE and Muscat and Oman would be to initially use Dubai as a base and explore: Day 1, spend time in Dubai, visit the Jumeirah mosque, the Dubai museum, take a trip along the creek and visit the souk. Day 2, take a day trip to Sharjah and wander around the restored old town and the new souk. Continue to Ajman and visit the museum that describes life in the UAE before the discovery of oil. Day 3, take another day trip to the east coast and the state of Fujeira. You can see mountains and gorges, oases and desert. Day 4, take another day trip to Abu Dhabi, see the skyscrapers and palaces and visit the islands offshore. Day 5, take a trip into the desert, climb up/roll down some sand dunes and visit the Haja Mountains. You could stay over night in a camp and be entertained by the inevitable belly dancer and cabaret – it's how it's done over there!

To extend the trip, you should continue down the east coast from Fujeirah to Sohar in Oman. Here you can see the pre-Islamic Nakhal fort, the Sohar fort and various souks. Stay overnight and on Day 6, continue south in Muscat and visit the fish souk, the Muttrah souk, Al Alam Palace and the museums. Stay overnight in Muscat and on Day 7, head south west to Nizwa and see the fort and souk and various (Jabel Shams Wadi Ghul, Al Hamra, Tanuf, Misfah, Bahla etc. Stay the night in Nizwa and on Day 8, head for Sur and see Izki, Sinaw, Wahiba Sands Wadi Bani Khalid. Stay overnight in Sur and on Day 9 return to Muscat.


London Travel Shows

The first two months of each year are a busy time for anyone interested in travel shows in London. In early January, we had the Daily Telegraph Travel Show that was held at Olympia. It was huge and included attractions such as a revolving climbing wall and a large inflatable pool for would-be scuba divers to try out their under water skills. The Globetrotters Club was well represented, as always – thanks to Dick for organizing the stand. A large number of Globetrotter members turned out on Saturday and Sunday to offer free travel advice to members of the public who were thinking of travelling; Central and South America seemed to be extremely popular planned travel destinations. All the usual adventure and overland companies were represented.

A couple of weeks after the Daily Telegraph Show, there was the Destinations travel show, also held at Olympia. This is more an opportunity for tourist offices to offer brochures and advice to help people plan their trips to specific countries rather than longer term round the world trips.

The final show, the Independent Travellers World show is usually in late February. It was again held at the much smaller venue, the Business Design Centre in Islington. Compared to last year's effort, (and previous years, which, quite frankly were awful!) this show was far, far better. The emphasis was mostly on independent and backpacker travel with fewer tourist offices being represented – more overland truck companies, gap year organizations etc. There were loads of freebies – these included baseball hats, key rings, free T-shirts, lots of sweeties (candies) and mugs from shipping insurance companies!


Travel Tips

Putting a backpack in a large rice sack or specially made nylon sack is a great way of not only tidying away the handles, but also deterring potential thieves.

Got any travel tips for the Beetle? Then e-mail them to: the Beetle