If there's only one trip you do in Seoul, it should be this one.
The iron curtain has gone from Germany but is alive and well here. You
have to take a tour. ON this occasion, the tour bus was 98% Japanese,
just me and an American guy who spoke English, so we got the front seats
and a guide to ourselves, and as we listened, we had the Japanese snoring
champion behind us!

Panmunjon is the site of the UN base Camp Boniface, named after a UN
Soldier murdered by the North Koreans. You are taken to Ballinger Hall,
where you get a slide show showing the history and what you are going
to be seeing. It's at this point you have to sign a disclaimer form
saying you won't blame them if the North Koreans take a pot shot at
you while you are on the tour!

The Observation post is next, where you look across to “Propoganda
Village” an uninhabited North Korean village that has a 160 metre
high flagpole, this dwarfs the 100 metre high one at Freedom village on
the South Korean side. You look down also on the 4 huts, 3 blue and one
silver where occasional peace talks take place. Then you cross the road
and enter blue hut number 2, inside is a table with microphones down the
middle.

Outside North Korean guards peer in at you, you are allowed to take photos
surprisingly. But the two sets of guards glower at each other through
their sunglasses, so they cannot make eye contact. The Southern guards
have only half their body showing, so they are less of a target!

Back at Camp Boniface you have an all you can eat “All American”
buffet lunch, chicken, sweet corn, potatoes, etc etc. You are then free
to buy a T-shirt or other souvenir. By the gate is “The worlds most
dangerous golf hole”! If you slice from here you won't get your
ball back!