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Siem Reap by Judy

Judy from the US write in to tell the Beetle about her recent visit to Siem Reap. This is what she says:

My husband and I were in Siem Reap for the full moon 8 Nov 03. Candles were set floating in the Siem Reap River which flows through the village. It was an awesome night scene. Boat races were also held at this time with competing teams from all over Cambodia.

One Swiss couple told us of an encounter they had upon entering the country. The left Bangkok by train to the border, then transferred to a tuk-tuk to cross over to a waiting truck. While taking the truck ride to SR they had their money and cell phone taken. Some American girls said they had taken the boat ride from Phnom Penh and had a good experience, including sightings of the Vietnamese boat people.

Siem Reap is a very safe place in the evenings by our experiences. The temples are a sight to behold…still in an unspoiled state. Take an extra passport photo to put on your temple permit as the photo queue can be long. The helium balloon ride is a great bargain $11.00 US to get a wonderful view of the Angkor Wat and nearby temples.

Sunrise and sunset are times to get pictures with the Angkor Wat reflecting in the moat waters. The guides suggest you take a hike up a very steep hill and then upon a temple to get a view of the sunset over the countryside; not the Angkor Wat. We rode by tuk-tuk to Chong Khneas and took a boat ride to see the Vietnamese floating village which was quite interesting and photographic.

The food was excellent and varied, especially like the Cambodian noodles. This was just the unspoiled area that we wanted to visit. Being from the Midwest US we had arranged a guide for 1 1/2 days and spent two days on our own. I think you need time just to sit and reflect on what a sight you are witnessing, Ta Prohm with the trees growing out of the stones and Angkor Thom were impressive.

February 2001 – Sicily by David Siracusa

The latter part of the flight over was terrific, with snow on the Gran Sasso first and then, towards the end, there was the fabulous spectacle of the Aeolian Islands with Stromboli puffing away. Etna, on Sicily itself, was puffing a bit but nothing to suggest the major eruption it had the next winter. We flew past it and into Catania.

I was pleased to find that I could get a bus direct from the airport to Siracusa without going into Catania and only had about fifty minutes to wait with a view of Etna to while away the time. More of the Sicilian coast than I had expected was spoilt by industry and far less by tourism and to be honest I did not particularly enjoy the bus journey to Siracusa. Fortunately it was only about an hour. I had booked for the first two nights at the Bel-Sit and I had seen where it was on the small map in the Rough Guide. Would I be able to recognise it on the ground though and save time going to the terminus and back? I was quite proud of myself as I alighted from the coach, got out my case, helped an attractive woman out with hers and watched the bus leave. My pride lasted all of twenty-three seconds until I discovered that the case was not mine! Somehow my Italian came up to telling the woman I had helped what had happened and I was given a lift in the car picking her up to pursue the bus. Strangely the conversation with the woman driver was in the neutral language of Spanish! There at its terminus was the bus and there, outside it were my case, some very crestfallen passengers who had of course lost theirs, the driver who looked as though he would rather be somewhere else – anywhere else in fact – and the inevitable police inspector. Great was the jubilation, as G.F. Handel said! This ended very well for me with a lift back up the hill and the first woman escorting me – and carrying my case – to the Bel-Sit; a bit more than I had deserved perhaps!

Two areas demand to be visited. These are the old part of the city at Ortygia, where the bus terminus was, and the Parco Archeológico. I went down to Ortygia that same evening, just too late for the tourist office opening times, and enjoyed a brief stroll round and a good pizza. It was quite good enough to call me back the next morning but, other than getting the map and literature I wanted from the tourist office, I was just a shade disappointed. Ortygia is near enough an island and not a very big one; I had not realised that the point, which should have given a good sea view, was out of bounds to visitors because of the requirements of the army. In general the area should probably be regarded as a must see by anyone who has not been to any of the beautiful old towns on the Italian mainland but, unusually, I was as much struck by the displayed poverty of some areas as anything. The cathedral is very interesting, though scarcely beautiful, from the outside with bits being part of an earlier Greek temple. However, contrary to my usual view in southern Europe, the interior, which contains some strikingly beautiful columns, provides a better spectacle. Taken as a whole I preferred Ortygia at night and the jury was still out on Siracusa as I took a bus and then a walk to the entrance to the Parco Archeológico.

The jury did not stay out long, however. This is terrific and, for a person like me who has never been to Greece, it was truly magic. I do not mean to belittle the sights in Sicily by saying this. The Greek remains in Sicily are regarded by experts as being of top order. I did classics in the sixth form and I well remember the campaigns of Athens and Sparta and the importance of Sicily in general and Siracusa in particular, in the Peloponnesian War. The splendid and vast Greek theatre here dates back to the fifth century BC and I found it quite spellbinding. Near it were the old Latomie del Paradiso, quarries and later the prison for Athenian prisoners of war. Paradise indeed? Even in February the heat would have suggested a very different theological area, particularly for those who had to work in the quarries. Particularly outstanding in the view is the Orecchio di Dionissio [ear of Dionysus,] a large cavern well up the cliff. Not far away is the Roman Amphitheatre, which became so much used for blood sports that another smaller one had to be built back in the town for drama.

Siracusa would have repaid a longer visit.

David Cross was a keen walker, particularly on mountains before he developed serious heart problems in 1995. He has now adapted his holidays to what he is able to do and we are presenting his account of 12 days in Sicily over this and the coming months. Next episode – Agrigento

Volunteer Corner Vacancies For Volunteer Doctors/Nurses For Hill Farmer Clinic Project, N E India

Can you spare 2 weeks + ? Would you like a working
holiday in a fantastic place?

We are currently looking for volunteer medical staff for
our clinic in India.

Agricultural Work with Planet
Drum Foundation in Bahia de Caraquez, Manabi, Ecuador

Planet Drum Foundation is a non-profit, grass roots
environmental organisation based in San Francisco,
California, USA. Planet Drum supports projects that address
environmental and sustainability issues. Their projects are
carried out by an international staff, volunteers, and
local citizens. Specific projects in Ecuador include:
replanting an urban park on the site of a large landslide,
establishing model community composting centres, seeding
steep slopes to prevent landslides, creating wildlife and
vegetation corridors, growing native plants and trees. They
are also starting up an environmental education program in
a local elementary school. No costs to volunteers,
dorm-style lodging in a large apartment. This area is
located on the coast where most amenities are available.

Madre de Selva

Madre Selva is a 5 hectare centre for research,
demonstration and education about tropical permaculture. It
is a grassroots project developed over 10 years. The
Institute is in a barrio on the edge of the buzzing
mangrove town of San Lorenzo in the North Western province
of Esmeraldas. It employs local staff and works with local
communities. The organisation is looking for someone to
help integrate and improve the current financial management
system, liaise with staff to research existing system and
plans, streamline operations, develop plans to generate
income and develop a business plan for Madre Selva.

Lisbon: On Moving to Cascais by Sally Pethybridge

Sally is British and has lived in the UK all her life. International travel as part of her work took her to many countries, including Portugal. She fell in love with the place and decided to sell her beautiful cottage in Malmsbury, Wiltshire, and relocate to Lisbon. In this article, she tells us about exploring Cascais, in Portugal.

So, what have I been up to? Well I have been exploring Cascais – I had to have a coffee bar to replace the one I used in Alfama and so far have found two that are really nice. The first one, Chocolat, is in the centre and is air-conditioned (a boon in the summer heat wave) and although more pricey than others, is quite glamorous. It does all sorts of herbal and fruit teas as well as every variety of coffee. It sells snacks and cakes and does great scones – a favourite being cinnamon. The second one is up a back street not far from the main square and is called Mise en Scene. This again does lovely teas and coffees and wonderful savouries. It has tables outside and inside its decorated in a cross between Mediterranean and Indian styles. Very good for vegetarians too. On Sundays I drive along the coast road to Casa da Guia – a large mansion with coffee bars, restaurants and shops with a view of the sea – to get the Sunday papers and then sit looking out at sea reading all the news. The service is atrocious – you wait ages to order, then ages for it to arrive and then a lifetime waiting for the bill and change but the view is worth it.

Throughout the heat wave the most popular places to go were the shopping centres because of the air conditioning. The beaches were, as you would expect, very busy but the guys on the beach that I use, said that it was still quiet compared to last year. I still get my bed for 2 Euros which is great value. It’s a nice beach with bars, ice cream kiosks and a ski school behind. You can sit and watch the water skiers fall in and the antics of the kids on the banana boat as well as all the other yachts, fishing boats and in the distance the big tankers on their way into Lisbon. Someone has also started boat trips up the coast to Lisbon (on Sundays) and to Carcavelos (about 10 minutes by road) in a tall ship. Apparently you can join in the work on the boat or just enjoy the trip.

The Marina is an odd place – obviously it has all the flash boats etc. and the shops, bars, restaurants etc. but doesn’t seem to be doing very well. I was told by a friend that the mooring fees here in Cascais are the most expensive in Europe!! May be that’s the reason then. There have also been a spate of late night muggings which have caused problems.

Along the coast road just up from Boca d’Inferno (Hell’s Mouth) is a great hot dog stand with amazing views out over the sea. Very enterprising operation run on solar power with tables and chairs, umbrellas etc. but no loo! They play good music too. Unfortunately as I do not like hot dogs I have not actually tried them but my local friends recommend them highly.

Cascais has a lovely park with a museum, ponds and a mini zoo. Very popular on Sundays with families and obviously with school parties. The areas behind the main streets are also very interesting with the old traditional properties and some of them have the most fabulous gardens – some times parts of it remind me very much of Malmsbury – the streets are just as narrow and there is a crazy one way system that still manages to confuse me and I end up somewhere I have never been before but it doesn’t matter as it’s a great way of finding new areas.

Living down by the coast is really nice. Although Cascais is a holiday resort, when you live here you really don’t notice it that much because the tourists tend to be concentrated by the seafront and the main square, although it has been pretty obvious that this year has been very quiet. The beach I use in previous years would have three or four guys working the beach, doing the beds, the canoes, the banana boat and water skiing and then about four or five behind the bar and waiting on the tables. This year there have been two on the beach (one finished two weeks ago); and two waiting tables (one finished about three weeks ago) and the rest is done by the husband and wife who own the beach bar. August was busy because that’s when the whole country is on holiday – they even stop charging to come across the bridges as an incentive for people.

If you’d like to contact Sally, she can be reached by e-mail on: pethybs@hotmail.com

Mission Antarctica – An Environmental Project by Andy Dare

Mission Antarctica set up by Robert Swan after walking to both South & North Pole. Antarctica is a truly unique place, but not as white and pristine as you would first imagine, and Robert was amazed at the rubbish problem.

Antarctica is not owned by anyone, however 44 signatory countries administer the continent. The treaty was set up so that it could be looked after for the future and states that everything brought in to the continent must be taken out, but obviously this was not happening.

In 1992 Robert was the keynote speaker at the first Earth Summit in Rio and spoke about the rubbish problem in Antarctica. With their approval he then set up a project to do something about it, choosing the Russian Base of Bellingshausen, as it was one of the worse areas. Also, it was accessible to visiting ships and had a runway nearby, allowing both easy access for research into the removal and aiding the difficult logistics.

For a number of years a team of Russian volunteers cut, compacted and moved the scrap onto the beach, stockpiling it to ease the removal later.

During December & January 2001/2002 the Ship “Anne Boye” was chartered and sailed to King George island to remove the scrap. A small team of 5 from the UK, together with the Russian volunteers then managed to move 1,000 tons of scrap from the beach onto the ship, all within 3 weeks.

The site was then levelled by JCB and within that week, the penguins and seals were back on the beach, oblivious to its former history. The waste was then taken to Uruguay for recycling, with the Dangerous waste like Asbestos, fuels and oils, taken to the UK for specialist disposal.

The Yacht “2041” (so named as this is the renewal date of the Antarctic Treaty) played an important role in the operation, as the main aim of the project was worldwide education.

For the first time ever, crew would be flown into the Antarctic to join the yacht for 8-10 day voyages, experiencing firsthand the cleanup, together with the awesome beauty in areas, as yet, untouched or visited by man.

Young people and teachers from 19 different countries sailed onboard Voyages 1 and 2. The aim was to get young people interested now, in preserving Antarctica, which would mean that in their later years when they were working and in possible leadership roles, they would remember this and take positive action to look after the Continent.

Voyage 3 allowed Robert, together with the sponsors, to observe firsthand the cleanup in operation. Voyage 4 was especially for young underprivileged South Africans. They had never even seen the sea before, let alone ice, when they visited the Continent. The final voyage sailed much deeper into the southern peninsular regions, observing how other bases are dealing with their waste. New territories were explored, before returning to S. America ahead of the winter, now closing in. The yacht had now sailed over 4,000M during our 3-Month Antarctic Expedition.

After resupplying in Argentina, the yacht sailed 1,400M to South Georgia, for a two week Expedition to see how the wildlife was coping with the waste left in the numerous abandoned Whaling Stations.

From the near extinction of the seals during the whaling era, they have made a spectacular recovery, and now they rule the very stations that nearly pushed them to the brink of extinction on South Georgia. There are now estimated to be over 1.5 million Fur seals resident on the Island, as well as thousands of Elephant Seals.

South Georgia is truly one of the world’s most spectacular wildlife habitats. This is mostly due to its desolation and the fact that man finds it so very hard to reach it – even in this day and age.

King penguins gather to breed in massive numbers, due to its year round access to the sea. On this beach alone there were estimated to be over Half a Million penguins!

On arrival in Cape Town, after a round trip of over 12,000M, the yacht was lifted out the water to be transported overland to Johannesburg, for The World Summit on Sustainable Development, where Robert addressed the United Nations on the success of the project in Antarctica. The yacht become a “floating petition” containing the names of thousands of young people who have pledged their support to the project on preserving & managing Antarctica

During all the Expeditions the crew filmed 25 hours of DV footage, using high quality digital video, together with over 5,000 digital images and 5,000 film images on Transparency. The images were complied, using the onboard video edit suite, onto CD’s for the Participants, to take back to their respective countries to show how the project had succeeded in the waste removal.

Andrew Dare is now conducting multimedia presentations, which explains the whole project from it start in Africa, the cleanup in Antarctica & the return to Africa, via South Georgia.

If you would like further details of this amazing expedition and project or to obtain images, please contact the Yacht Captain, Andrew Dare, e-mail: andydare@bigfoot.com

The World's Newest Countries

The World’s Newest Countries

Country (Independence Date)

  1. East Timor (May 20, 2002)
  2. Palau (October 1, 1994)
  3. Czech (Republic January 1, 1993)
  4. Eritrea (May 24, 1993)
  5. Slovakia (January 1, 1993)
  6. Yugoslavia (April 27, 1992)
  7. Bosnia and Herzegovina (March 1, 1992)
  8. Kazakhstan (December 16, 1991)
  9. Turkmenistan (October 27, 1991)
  10. Armenia (September 21, 1991)
  11. Macedonia, The Former Yugoslav Republic of (September 17, 1991)
  12. Tajikistan (September 9,1991)
  13. Lithuania (September 6, 1991)
  14. Uzbekistan (September 1, 1991)
  15. Kyrgyztan (August 31, 1991)
  16. Moldova (August 27, 1991)
  17. Belarus (August 25, 1991)
  18. Russia (August 24, 1991)

Source: www.aneki.com

European Rail Timetable Resources

Spotted by our webmaster, Paul. If you are planning to travel in Europe by train, then the links below will take you to the English language versions of local rail journey planners. The majority of these provide timetable, ticket and booking facilities.

Belgium http://www.b-rail.com
Denmark http://www.dsb.dk
Finland http://www.vr.fi
France http://www.sncf.fr
Germany http://www.bahn.de
Italy http://www.trenitalia.com
Ireland http://www.irishrail.ie
Luxembourg http://www.cfl.lu
Netherlands http://www.ns.nl
Spain http://www.renfe.es
Sweden http://www.samtrafiken.se
UK https://www.thetrainline.com/
Eurostar http://www.eurostar.com

Stuart’s Guide to Angkor Wat

Former Globetrotters Committee member Stuart was recently based in Cambodia whilst working for Voluntary Services Overseas. In this article, he gives us the benefit of his experience and tells us his top tips.

Transport

Tuk tuk (seats 2) – $8 a day (sunrise to sunset) for the central temples (Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm), $15 to go to Banteay Srei, they may want and extra $1 to go to Neak Pean but this is a bit cheeky.

I recommend Kinal as a driver – very gentle person, speaks a bit of English, drives slowly and carefully, has a nice new tuk-tuk. Tel: 012 909 730.

Alternative is to go by moto for about $5-8.

There are 2 boat options – new Japanese boat or old boat. The new one has just started and they had a promo deal on for July and Aug of $30 o/w but the normal price is $55, which is comparable to flying. It’s about the same time as the old boat. Guesthouses in Siem Reap can arrange tickets. It has an air-con downstairs with nice seats, free meal and drinks, normal volume films and a covered deck with chairs. They also pick you up and take you to/from the boat at both ends. Additional perks include life jackets and lifeboats, which are not to be found on the old boats.

The old boats are normally $25 o/w but they dropped their prices to $10-15 in the face of competition from the new one but they may well go back up again once the promo period is over. Old boats all seem to be quite similar – “bullet boats” or “express boats” or “rambo boats”. Basically a metal cylinder with cramped air-conned interior and VERY loud videos (Khmer comedy or kung fu – bring ear plugs). Trick is to get a seat away from a speaker and not too close to the back (engine noise and industrial strength aircon). Probably not for claustrophobics as the only 2 doors are small and what would happen in the event of an accident doesn’t bear thinking about.

Alternatively, sit on the roof – take plenty of sun cream, water and a scarf (2-3000 riel for a kroma – checked Khmer scarf, from any market) to cover body parts that will get roasted/soaked regardless. Once the thing gets going it is very fast and exposed. There is no barrier at the outside edge of the boat, only a ledge to walk along and a rail at shoulder height to hold onto, so if you need to go to the loo (inside) during the 5-6 hour trip (cf. drinking lots of water tip above) then don’t fall in on the way as they probably won’t stop to pick you up. Put valuables in plastic bags to avoid them being drenched.

However, if you want to take photos then the roof is the place to be. There is a Vietnamese floating village just at the Siem Reap boat boarding place which is very photogenic. Once in the lake itself the scenery is not great as the banks are far away. The stretch from Kompong Chhnang to PP is scenic as the banks are close and there are lots of other boats fishing etc.

Food & Accom

I haven’t tried too many places but can recommend Soup Dragon (run by an ex-VSO) and Blue Pumpkin (also does good bakery things). Watch the restaurants near the temples – they’re much more expensive than elsewhere (as are the drinks stands – buy in Siem Reap and leave them in the tuk-tuk). I’m not sure but I think some places have 2 menus – one for foreigners and the other for locals. The alternative is to stock up on picnic things in Siem Reap.

Top tip: you can swim in the very nice pool at the Angkor Village Hotel for free – just be discrete about it.

There are loads of places to stay in all price ranges. We stayed at the Green Garden Home guest house, which is a little out of the centre i.e. a 5-10 min walk to the market. Quiet garden setting with rooms from $10-25.

Shopping

Don’t bother buying souvenirs here as they’re much cheaper and better quality/selection in Phnom Penh. One thing you might want to get is the Angkor guide book by Dawn Rooney which gives you the detailed low down on each temple. $2-5 for a photocopied version, available everywhere. There are also 2 little visitors’ guides available in guesthouses which have up-to-date maps and listings.

Temples

This year the Government has introduced photo passes – you get taken into a little room and have your picture taken (free – or you can take a photo along if you prefer/have one to hand) for putting on your pass. $20 for 1 day; $40 for 2-3; $60 for 4-7. 3 days is nice and not rushed at all, you probably need 2 minimum if you want to get to Banteay Srei/not hang around; it probably is possible to cover most of the main sights in a day if you happen to be Japanese. Reserve one of your days for a sunrise/set visit – recommended.

There are loads of temples to see and they’re spread over a huge area but recommendations are:

  • Angkor Wat – can’t come to Cambodia and not see this. There are 2 pools inside the grounds ideally situated for sunrise/set shots. Make sure you’ve got a guidebook that can explain the bas reliefs – the churning of the sea makes more sense once it’s been explained. Stairs to the top are precarious.
  • Angkor Thom/Bayon – doesn’t look much from afar but once inside those faces really get to you – a marvel. Don’t forget to check out the bas reliefs here too – lots of apsaras in good condition.
  • Ta Promh – overgrown with trees, looking a bit like it’s just been discovered. Atmospheric but difficult to photograph in the rain as it is quite dark.
  • Banteay Srei – a trek from Siem Reap but well worth it. Very different from the main temples – it’s made from red stone and the carving is very intricate. It is surprisingly small.
  • Pre Rup – on the way to B. Srei and it just seems to appear from nowhere. I particularly enjoyed trying to explain elementary arithmetic to the girl on the top – she wanted to sell 10 bangles for 4000 riel but refused to sell 5 for 2000!
  • Preah Neak Pean – because it’s so different – it comes as a bit of a shock after all those crumbling temples. This one is a complex of 5 pools. Very little to it but a change is as good as a rest.
  • Others:
  • Banteay Kdei – quite similar to the others. Maybe I was getting watted out by this point.
  • Srah Srang – the king’s bath but really just a set of stairs and a field!
  • Preah Khan – has “enchanting walks”. Shaped liked a huge cross with many of the designs similar to other temples.

We didn’t make it to the Roulos group (the earliest temples), Phnom Kulen, the river of 1000 lingkas (apparently very good once there’s been enough rain to cover the carvings) or any of the other minor places.

Film

Film is available cheaply in Siem Reap. Not so sure about quality of processing but can recommend a place in PP which is cheap, quick and good.

If you go for a sunrise/set visit to the temples and you’ve got an SLR then underexpose to get nice silhouette shots.

Take at least 400ASA film for the temples as some of them can be surprisingly dark, especially if it is raining/cloudy – you may find yourself needing a flash at times.

For more information, visit Stuart’s website:http://uk.geocities.com/stuartincambodia

A brief description of Mtwara by Jean Milnes, UK

Mtwara (pop:approx.100,000) is the nearest town to Mikindani, in South eastern Tanzania. It is the administrative centre of the region, was the southern ‘capital’ in Colonial times and serves as the springboard for travel south into Mozambique. It can be reached by air from Dar es Salaam to Mtwara’s own airport, by sea from Dar es Salaam on the MV Santorini or by road from north, south and west. The approach to Mtwara from Mikindani undulates along a stretch of rural country that eventually goes up a long gradual hill. Along the metalled road are the saltpans, and behind them on the right hand side is a large coconut plantation. Just before the hill begins is the turning off to the right, which takes you to the airport, and the road to the Ruvuma River & Mozambique border.

As the road goes up the hill towards Mtwara it runs along an escarpment – great view over the countryside from there – and comes to a roundabout with a monument to the Mwenge or National Torch. If you turn left you approach Ligula Hospital, built with British money in the early 1960s – turn right and it takes you to the market area (more of that later). Straight on and on the right you pass a large open area called the Showground, which seems to be both the local militia training ground and the HGV driving school site. Both activities have been seen there – the militia several times per week. A rag taggle lot of men, women and some no more that children but given a panga each, they would probably not be good to meet! I think that basic training started at about two months ago and they have progressed to the slow march – they seem to spend a lot of time on that activity. The whole platoon was seen setting off to jog down the main road towards Mikindani – some had dropped out by the time they reached the roundabout! At this point the road goes down a long straight dusty hill with acacia trees either side plus an occasional mango tree, and occasional office buildings such as the Tanzanian Revenue Authority, the local government departments, the Air Tanzania local office and Tanesco offices. 2 storeys seems to be the maximum here so nothing too big.

If you continue to the end you come to a T-junction. Opposite is the Catholic church we went to for Joyce’s wedding, turn right and it takes you to the Port from where the MV Santorini departs to Dar es Salaam – turn left and you get to Shangani – the up market part of the town where the wealthy residents live and many of the NGO’s have their offices there too. Shangani also boasts a good swimming beach. But before you get that far there are several streets on either side – none of which have good surfaces. Immediately any expected notion of being in a regional capital is dashed. One is supposed to be a metal road but the surface is dreadful, and there are 3 of the most vicious ‘sleeping policemen’ you could ever imagine. The rest are just mud/sand/dust road surfaces (depending on the season). Driving along the main shopping street feels more like being at sea it is so undulating both backwards and forwards and side to side! Nothing at all is spent on roads. Mtwara is in 2 parts really – the older part being around the tiny Aga Khan Park, mostly built in the 1950’s & 60’s.

The main shopping street in the Aga Khan Park area is mostly Indian shops – with strings of (very old and dry) mango leaves strung across the door for good luck. There is the ‘off licence’, the shop where all the Landrover spares come from that also sells hardware and bottled gas, there is another shop that sells all sorts of imported food Cornflakes, Alpen, Heinz tomato ketchup etc.

A little further on, in the Chiko Ngola area, is the market and the Bus station. Just before you turn into the main street that leads to the market there is a crossroads. On one corner there is a huge Coca Cola bottle, which marks a drinks kiosk! On the opposite corner there is a patch of open ground in front of the Mtwara football ground. On this patch of ground the cashew nut co-operative hangs out – waiting for buyers to approach them. The nuts are sold in 1 kg or ½ kg packs. It is worth pulling up the Landrover on the corner just to see the sight of the most competitive co-operative saleswomen – they are really aggressive and rush over thrusting packs of nuts into the window of the vehicle and pushing each other out of the way! So much for being a co-operative!

Another feature of Mtwara, in common with many towns and villages throughout Tanzania, is the imaginative use of old shipping containers. These are converted into shops, offices, hairdressing salons and bars. They are fitted out with electricity and some are painted with a brick effect design on the front. Mtwara reminds me a little of an American West town, sort of neglected, dusty and rather chaotic. The fuel station that we use is on one of the worst roads – and each time I have been there I have to wait for herds of cattle to be driven along the road before I can leave! It looks just like an American cattle drive! On one occasion there was also a flock of Guinea fowl wandering along the road. You are likely to find very free ranging chickens, goats and cattle wandering around all the streets – with no apparent ownership. It has been known to meet any of these in the Bank car park.

One of the guide books refers to an ‘endearingly time-warped atmosphere’. This Mtwara certainly has despite it trying to portray an air of activity and modern commercialism. There is something very appealing about it!

For more information on the work carried out by Trade Aid in Tanzania, see their websitewww.mikindani.com

Global Warming Caused by Air Flights

The UK Government think-tank Commission for Integrated Transport is currently considering a plan to impose a congestion charge on flights. It warns that the number of flights is growing by five per cent annually from the present figure of 162 million a year. Ten years ago, planes caused 3.5 per cent of man-made greenhouse gases in the world. By 2050, this figure is estimated to rise to 15 per cent.

The toll, to be introduced on flights leaving at the most popular times, could double the amount travellers pay in the UK on departure tax, which currently stands at between £5 and £40. The charge is being considered to raise an extra £600 million to offset the damage aircraft is causing to the environment.

Airlines in Britain already pay £800 million to offset the damage they cause. The commission says they should be paying £1.4 billion for congestion charges on mid-morning or early evening flights. UK airlines have dismissed the proposal, saying passengers were already taxed enough. British Airways said: 'The way to relieve congestion is to meet demand and that means extra runways.' Holiday operator Thomas Cook added: 'Passengers are already being taxed enough.'

Lisbon: Teaching English and Joining Women’s Groups by Sally Pethybridge, Portugal

Sally is British and has lived in the UK all her life. International travel as part of her work took her to many countries, including Portugal. She fell in love with the place and decided to sell her beautiful cottage in Malmsbury, Wiltshire, and relocate to Lisbon. In this article, she tells us of getting her first job.

I have started work (about time most of you are probably saying!) this month. I am teaching at a local international school (20 minutes by car) which is great fun. The headmistress has decided that the playground assistants, gardener, porter, cleaners and security staff should all learn English so that they can communicate better with the kids and parents. I have two classes each Monday, Wednesday and Friday mornings. The age range is between mid twenties to late fifties. Two cannot read or write! I have one Romanian (who doesn’t read or write), and three Ukrainians (one is a qualified engineer working as the gardener, and one is an Economist working as a cleaner). It is great fun and very challenging as I don’t use a text book because I have to verbalise and visualise everything due to the non reading and writing element. On Monday I took them all around the grounds of the school identifying objects – they love “small wheelie bin” and “shed”.

Pronunciation is tricky and the word “fork” does tend to sound like something else! Tomorrow they have asked for phrases to use in the playground i.e. “shut up”, “sit down”, “what have you got there?” etc etc and the cleaners want their cleaning equipment identified. They can now introduce each other, say who they are, where they live and what they live in, whether they are married or single, how many children they have and how many pets – not bad in three weeks.

I have also just had an interview with a language school in Sintra and hope something might come from that and have another one scheduled for Thursday afternoon with a school about 15 minutes from here – so things might be looking up. I am also going to advertise English conversation classes to see what comes from that.

I have joined the IWP – the International Women of Portugal. I though it might be a good way of meeting new people. I duly trotted along to one of their coffee mornings and wondered whether it had been worth bothering. Most of the ladies grabbed a coffee and bun and headed off in groups – not quite what I had been expecting.

One lady did come over and talk and it turned out that her husband worked in the power industry over here, which was a coincidence as it turns out I spoke to him about two years ago when I was headhunting with my friend Cathy! What a small world! Anyway, she invited me over to her house for coffee a few weeks later which was rather nice.

Still not too convinced it’s the right thing to belong to, but I will persevere a bit longer. I have also, via an advert in their magazine, found a brilliant library. It is run by a lady who has converted what were maids quarters at the back of her villa into this gem of a place. There are three sections, large print, hardback and paperback – over 1,000 in total! And it’s all free. She will not take any money for anything. It’s brilliant for getting rid of unwanted paperbacks, tapes, videos etc. She has also got a very good selection of audio tapes. Just listened to second Harry Potter spoken by Stephen Fry which was fabulous and the Alan Bennett “Talking Heads”. I met two very interesting ladies there and have lunch with them at weekends. One of them has lived here for 40 years – she was married to a Portuguese artist and lives in a wonderful old villa with three rescued cats and three dippy dogs. The other lady is fascinating. She used to answer the problem letters in various teenage magazines in the sixties, typed scripts for someone who made blue movies and is quite a character – very strong minded and incredibly opinionated which is a bit difficult at times!

I gave my classes homework for the first time on Wednesday and apart from about two small spelling errors, they got everything right! I am so thrilled. I have also been told by the headmistress that they love the classes – makes me feel quite proud. Our final topic of the day today (25 September) was “what are you doing at the weekend?” We had the usual things like going to the supermarket, sleeping, watching Benfica on TV, celebrating 3rd wedding anniversary (he got a round of applause) and then with a bit of giggling and translating we had the classic: “On Saturday I am going to the supermarket to do the shopping. I am going to make love on Saturday night”. This got cheers! They really are a great bunch of ladies and gents!

That’s fine. You could also add that I am now working for Big Ben in Cacem teaching three children aged from 6-8 and two adults in their late twenties. The biggest problem with the adults is that they hate the text books they have been given because they are aimed at children. I am trying to devise something of more interest and relevance to them.

Oh and there has been a recount at the library – Jennie reckons there are now over 5,000 books!

If you’d like to contact Sally, she can be reached by e-mail on: pethybs@hotmail.com

Mac’s Travel Tips, USA

Mac has been reading and researching again! The following travel tips are a culmination of his recent reading.

Luggage tags: these can easily be lost. One potential solution is to put your address inside your suitcase or to put some distinctive marking with a permanent marking pen on the side of the suitcase, such as a circle, or triangle. On that advice, I have put a big cross on each area of my baggage. I hope someone will think maybe there is religious stuff inside, that I am a missionary or something and won’t steal my naughty magazines inside. (Only kidding!)

Getting lost – directions: one person suggested when you go to theme parks or such like, he goes to the right, then to the left and so on and return in reverse. Now why didn’t I think of that! (Globetrotters membership Secretary Kevin takes his compass with him on his trips to Japan to ensure that he exits subways in the right direction.)

Showers: if you don’t have shower clogs, one person suggests putting a hand towel on the bottom of shower tray and standing on it . Another person suggests that when you enter your hotel room you should turn on the shower for a few minutes which will get rid of the build up of spores that cause Legionnaires disease.

Taxis: one person suggested on leaving a taxi, to leave the door open while you are getting your bags out of the boot/trunk., this way the taxi can’t drive off before you have had a chance to make sure you haven’t left anything behind.

Travel on Sundays: I often travel on Sunday but one person recommends not travelling on Sundays as most train and bus times are infrequent or destinations are limited and many stores and businesses close early or are not open, such as money changers.

If you would like to contact Mac, he is happy to answer e-mails: macsan400@yahoo.com

Warning: Lastminute.com by Trevor, UK

Trevor from the UK writes to tell us of his experience booking flights through the internet based travel company lastminute.com. He says:

Be very careful before booking flights through lastminute.com. I recently booked two flights a week or two in advance of travelling and elected to collect my tickets via the e-ticket mechanism. My account was duly debited for two tickets and I received confirmation to the effect that the e-tickets had been issued. So far so good. We then arrived at the airline check-in desk on the morning we were due to fly only to be told by the airline that they only had one e-ticket on the system and had no record of a second e-ticket ever being issued.

We were unable to contact lastminute.com (the only obvious way of contacting anyone at lastminute.com seems to be via an online web form) and we were faced with the choice of either;

A] Abandon our holiday

B] Pay the airline to issue the other e-ticket

C] Go by myself and leave my wife in England [ just kidding… 🙂 ]

We took option [B] and I contacted lastminute.com to obtain an explanation and a refund for the second e-ticket that we were charged for but never received. I received an email informing me that my wife’s name was too long (longer than a piece of string, presumably) and so they hadn't issued the second e-ticket. No explanation as to why I hadn't been informed of a problem prior to turning up at the airport, or even an apology. The best they could offer was to “request a refund via the airline on [our] behalf”.

We're still waiting for our money, and I'm now considering legal action.

Caveat emptor, as they say.

If you want to contact Trevor, he can be e-mailed on: trev_gs@blueyonder.co.uk

MEETING NEWS

Meeting news from our branches around the world.

The World’s Richest Countries

Rank Country (GDP per capita)

  1. Luxembourg ($36,400)
  2. United States ($36,200)
  3. Bermuda ($33,000)
  4. San Marino ($32,000)
  5. Switzerland ($28,600)
  6. Aruba ($28,000)
  7. Norway ($27,700)
  8. Monaco ($27,000)
  9. Singapore ($26,500)
  10. Denmark ($25,500)

Meeting News from London by Padmassana

1st November 2003 London meeting

On November 1st, we had two very different talks this month. The first was by Amar Grover, entitled “The Hindustan Tibet road”, an old trading route used by pilgrims on their way to Mt Kailash. The area is very mountainous and picturesque, Amar showed us villages and 800 year old temples perched high on cliff tops, some only reachable by use of “Flying fox” pulley systems across the valleys, not for use by those with a nervous disposition. In this Buddhist region we saw monks who perform dances depicting parts of the Buddha’s life. We also saw how hard daily life is with yaks being used for farming. But it was the stunning scenery, which stole the show.

Our second speaker was the ever-popular Tom Freemantle, who delighted us with his talk “Mexico to Manhattan with a mule”. Tom was following once again in the footsteps of a relation who did this journey during the American civil war. Tom met “Brownie” the mule at the Mexican border and after a few tips from the owner set off in temperatures of 100 degrees. Tom’s epic journey of 2700 miles took seven months, Brownie going through seven sets of shoes. Along the way Tom showed us some of the great sights including the Alamo. But it was the hospitality of the American people that shone through. During Tom’s trip September 11th had happened and it was fitting that the last shots we saw were Tom’s photos of “Ground Zero”.

Next month, on Saturday 6th December, Paul Goldstein will talk about Africa: An Adventurous Wilderness/The Hunters and the Hunted. Paul has travelled to sub-Saharan Africa over fifty-five times guiding safaris and tours, and photographing. He has climbed Africa’s highest peaks, rafted the wildest rivers and stood toe-to-toe with charging rhino. His passion, for “conservation” for the people and wild-life, is supported by award-winning photography in both BBC and Royal Geographic Photographic competitions.

After the break, John Pilkington will give a talk entitled: Up the Mekong to Tibet about a journey up one of Asia’s longest rivers from the South China Sea to Tibet and beyond. Starting from the rice paddies of Vietnam, John follows its course through the gorges of China’s Yunnan province to where it rises at over 16,000 feet, meeting river people of six nationalities along the way.

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk

Our Friends Ryanair

Plenty of news about our friends Ryanair.

Despite their difficulties with court cases with the European Union about state aid, (whether Ryanair received unfair state subsidies at its Belgian hub of Charleroi) Ryanair has announced two new European bases in Rome and Barcelona. The new bases would start from January 28 and February 5 2004 respectively, adding 12 routes to its rapidly expanding network.

And the bad news: Ryanair is to close all its recently-opened intra-Nordic routes due to weak demand and switch capacity to destinations outside the region. They plan to end flights from Sweden’s Skavsta to Oslo in Norway, Tampere in Finland and Arhus in Denmark from January 14 2004. Ryanair added in a statement it was also shutting its flights from London to Ostend in Belgium, Maastricht in the Netherlands and to the French destinations of Reims and Clermont.

The good news: new routes will be from London Stansted to Linz in Austria, Bari in Italy, Erfurt in Germany, Jerez in Spain, and from France’s Charleroi to Calladolid in Spain.

You really wanted to know this, didn’t you: you can now buy Ryanair gift vouchers: for more info, see: http://www.ryanairvouchers.com/They say you can choose from 135 routes across 16 different countries (does that include flying into the wrong country – Beetle?) and that for every voucher bought Ryanair will make a £1/€1 donation to charity

Meeting News from New York

For details of forthcoming meetings email newyork@globetrotters.co.uk or register for email updates, click here at our website.

Hi Globies – hope you all had a good Happy Thanksgiving! We have another great slide shows coming up for January 10th!

Michael Luongo will be talking about Rebuilding the Ruins of Afghanistan – from women who work at re-opened museums to hunky gym rats who worship Arnold Schwarzenegger. Afghanistan has changed in the 2 years since the ousting of the Taliban. A lot more work needs to be done, but new buildings rise from the rubble to punctuate the Kabul skyline, archeological initiatives are helping tourism, and wheelchair programs are giving mine victims a new chance in life. See the Afghanistan you never read about in the papers. We'll look at what there is to see as a tourist in Kabul and we'll also touch on travel to other Islamic hotspots like Jordan, Turkey and Morocco

Venue: as always 4:00-5:30 The Wings Theater 154 Christopher Street. $10.00 for non-members and $8.00 for members.

The NY Globetrotters website: www.globetrottersnyc.com

New York meetings are held at The Wings Theatre, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month at 4 pm.

Iris’s Diary of An Overland Trip Through South America

After her memorable barbecue in Itaunas, Brazil, Iris and her overland group make their way to Caravelas.

We moved on to a place called Caravelas which was right by the sea, a nice little Pousada (hotel) as they call them in Brazil, with a little dip pool and nice little rooms, with the sea just seconds away. It was here that I decided to get rid of a load of outstanding postcards and so took a trip into the little town to find a post office and send them off. I do hope they all arrived safely because I was advised it might be better to wait until Salvador as rural post offices are notoriously sleepy places, but when I got to the post office, I found it very efficient and the staff of two extremely helpful, and I was able to get directions to a stationery shop so that I could buy more envelopes to post off the rest of my postcards at a later date.

I dare say recipients who receive the postcards initially noticed that the envelopes were stuck down with sellotape in a very haphazard fashion! Well, it was only after I had bought the envelopes and came to stick them down that I realized there was no sticky on them! Apparently this is the norm in Brazil and one has to either buy a glue stick to stick them down or use the facilities at the post office! We have decided that this is probably because it is so humid in Brazil that any sticky on the envelopes would soon deteriorate and stick themselves down before they were used, if you see what I mean.

We stayed in Caravelas for just two nights and then moved on to Caraiva, which is a small island just the most incredibly small boat journey from the shore, it took the boatsmen all of two minutes, I would think to row us across. And this again was an unspoilt place with no built up roads, and the island itself was on a coast line which was reached only by a very basic mud track road which sent us all lurching and bumping around inside the truck as it negotiated potholes, ruts and ridges in the road and at times had difficulty getting through narrow openings and sharp bends and some bridges that looked as if they wouldn't take a horse and cart, let alone an enormous truck!

Anyway, we spent an enjoyable three nights there. I wasn't prepared to enjoy it to begin with because we had such a trek round the island to find our accommodation only to find the place we were supposed to stay at was inexplicably closed, and so it was a race to find the best accommodation available and as usual, Judith and I got left behind in the crush and rush by the younger members of the group to get themselves sorted (there’s no concession on this trip for the aged among them) and so in the end it meant that we were housed in a small Pousada across the road from the rest of the group, but we did pay Reais 5 less than they did per night and got a really nice two-bedded (one double bed and one single bed) room and it took us quite some time to assure our landlord that Martin, who had come to act as interpreter for us, didn't want to share the double bed with one or both of us!)

We also found our landlord had donkeys who came by to spend the night just outside the grounds of the Pousada in a square area formed between two buildings. During the evening, we went to the landlord’s restaurant for a meal and noticed the gate to the Pousada and its grounds had been shut, so we carefully closed it behind us. We met a Brazilian lady at the restaurant, who seeing our difficulty with the menu, came to assist us. It turned out she had spent time in USA and spoke really good English and she turned out to be an artist of sorts, her speciality being designing patterns for materials, and her husband’s speciality was making jewellery and they travelled around on public transport selling their wares. We spent a pleasant evening with them before going back to bed, and then as I looked out over the grounds, once we had got to our room, I noticed we had inadvertently left the gate open and the donkeys, who had arrived to spend the night in the lee of the buildings, had entered the garden and were about to feed off the plants! Well, some of my friends and family know I am not too happy dealing with large animals, but without thinking I went straight down and shooed these three big animals out of the garden and they obeyed me so willingly, I felt quite proud of myself as I closed the gate behind them. (I didn't want to have to pay for all the plants they might have eaten and that spurred me on, I think)

We spent a pleasant couple of days in Caraiva, exploring the beaches and finding everyone so friendly and helpful. Most of the group descended on a particular restaurant for breakfast and to spend the day there while they frolicked on the beach and in the sea, and I just wandered from place to place, studying my Spanish and just contemplating the ocean. There were plenty of places to eat in the evening, mostly serving fish, and we met our Brazilian friends each evening and spent some pleasant times with them. They were in Caraiva to display their wares, and weren't too hopeful of selling much as they were relatively expensive compared to the normal tourist junk, but the lady was just pleased to practice her English and we were relieved because we weren't too keen to learn Portuguese. I had studied it a year or so ago, but I had then decided to concentrate on Spanish and so forgot most of what I had tried to learn!

We then went on to a place called Porto Seguro, which is in the middle of the mining area of Brazil where many precious stones and metals are found and whilst there visited their museum with exhibits from all over the world depicting stones in their raw state and in their polished state, and showing all the various minerals and metals extracted in the region together with the machinery etc to do it with and it truly was a very fascinating exhibition and I spent a couple of hours there. Porto Seguro is an unspoilt town with narrow streets and colonial buildings, unfortunately many of them in bad need of renovation, but it also made a pleasant stopping point for us on the way to Salvador.