 Welcome
to eNewsletter September 2008
Hello all,
Welcome to the new season of the
Globetrotters Club at its London branch. As you can see below we’ve kicked
off the new season with a good couple of speakers and a new voice on the
lectern !! I’ve also included plenty of input from regular contributors such
as Mac, Harold Dunn and Padmassana…these guys are the main stay of the
eNewsletter. And whilst I am in contact with a regular pool of contributors,
I’m always looking for new material including photographs – see feel free to
try your hand and get in touch.
This time round we have some sadness to
talk about as well. Another long distance cyclist, Ian Hibell, has been
fatally injured by an unforgiving motorist whilst on the road and Fridgey has
experienced the rough arm of Australia’s customs officials. Whilst not
comparable, both episodes show what the travelling community endures as it
goes about its business…sometimes it’s a tad too sad for words.
To close on a happier note though, we’ve also details on
Rosie Swale Pope completing her round the world epic and news of the
Independent Travel Show happening in London in 2009.
That’s all for now…stay safe whilst you travel,
The Ant
theant@globetrotters.co.uk
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September
meeting news from the London branch by Padmassana
 With host Jeanie Copland at the lectern and with
Jacqui Trotter reporting queues to get into the Church of Scotland venue, the
new season got off to a fine start with:-
The front cover of the last Globe featured
Katie Fahrland and her Wm Wood legacy trip to Mali. The September meeting
began with Katie giving a talk on her trip and the 3 day music festival that
takes place at Segou on the Niger River - the legacy gave Katie the chance to
make a dream come true and visit the festival. Katie was thrust into Mali life from day 1, pushing and shoving her way onto a bus to reach Segou. The music  festival attracts 14,000 people, who enjoy the
music from the stage that is almost in the river. The visual effects being
provided by one box with a stream of wires coming out that just sits on a
chair. After the festival Katie took the opportunity to see some more of the
country, showing us sights such as the Great mud Mosque at Djenne, which has
to be patched up after rainfall. She also made a side trip on a motorbike
with a guide into Dogon country, seeing a village that makes pottery and
fires its pottery by literally having a big fire. Katie's trip has prompted
her to enrol for a Masters degree at SOAS (School of Oriental and African
Studies http://www.soas.ac.uk/).
 Our second speaker was Fran Sandham who talked
about his walking trip across Africa. He explained the whole idea came
during a drunken New Years eve party, when he decided that if he was going to
make a New Year's resolution it was going to be a big one ! January 1st
dawned, despite the hangover and the cold light of day he decided it was
still a good idea, so he spent the next year working every hour to save up
the money to make it possible. His walk took him from the Skeleton Coast in Namibia via Zambia, Malawi and Tanzania, finishing in Zanzibar. The 3000
mile walk took him a year, it would have been quicker but for an abortive
idea to get a donkey to carry his pack, the donkey refused, he then got a
mule, but the mule arrived on a van that it had kicked to pieces, so Fran
abandoned that idea as well ! He downsized his pack and carried it himself,
avoiding Lions in north Namibia and narrowly avoiding treading on a lazy Puff
Adder that was sitting in the middle of the road, surprising himself at how
high he could jump carrying a 30kg rucksack ! He arrived in Zanzibar a year after setting off 3 stones lighter and wondering what to do next. He has
written the book, so if you want to read more about Fran's trip visit www.traversa.co.uk or check it out on
Amazon.
For details of the forth
coming meetings of the London branch, September 2008 through to July 2009 - http://www.globetrotters.co.uk/meetings/lon09it1.html.
London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown
Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first
Saturday of each month, unless there is a UK public holiday that weekend.
There is no London meeting in August, but we start afresh in September. For
more information, contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674
6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk.
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Meeting news from Ontario
For information on Ontario meetings, please contact Svatka Hermanek: shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or
Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.
Ontario meetings are held on the third Friday of January,
March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op,
Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.
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Write in (1)… Briton who cycled around the world for 40 years
killed in hit-and-run in Greece
In sad echoes of how
long time GT member Martin Wright met his untimely & tragic death in mid 2007,
renowned round the world cyclist Ian Hibell perished in awful circumstance.
I understand how accidents happen but how does any driver not see a fully
laden cyclist and then drive off when something does go wrong !! It beggars
belief…
The following article
was printed in the Daily Mail newspaper on 4 September 2008
The Ant
 A British 'Marco Polo' who
travelled the world on his bicycle for 40 years has been killed in a
hit-and-run road crash in Greece. Ian
Hibell, 74, was dubbed a “cyclist extraordinaire” in the long-distance touring world and
rode across every continent and some of the most remote parts of the planet.
He undertook countless expeditions over 40 years that were classed as 'world
firsts' including an overland Trans-Americas expedition from Cape Horn to Alaska, between 1971 and 1973. During his 250,000 miles of cycling across deserts and
glaciers he was shot at by bandits, nearly eaten alive by tropical ants,
stuck in mangrove swamps, chased by rogue elephants and once faced down a hungry
lion. He enjoyed the hospitality of an Eskimo princess, a Dyak
headman in Borneo, African chiefs and missionaries and once asked for a
two-year sabbatical from work - only to return ten years later.
Ian used over 800 cycle repair
kits during his travels and refused to use standard pannier racks for
carrying items - insisting instead that custom-made racks be welded onto his Argos bike frames. Ian, of Brixham, Devon, wrote numerous books about cycling and was also
a regular on television shows such as BBC's Blue Peter where he regaled
generations of children with his tales from the saddle. He once estimated
that he cycled an average 6,000 miles a year for 40 years - the equivalent of
cycling to the moon.
But he died while cycling on the
Athens-Salonika highway on August 23 after he was in collision with a car
which was racing another vehicle. The driver fled the scene but eyewitnesses
took its registration and he was arrested two hours later and is facing
charges of causing death by dangerous driving. Friend Nicola Henderson said: “He died after he was involved in a hit and run incident whilst cycling
in Greece. “ At the time he was doing what was his life-long passion of
cycle-touring. He had been touring the world more or less continuously for
over 40 years.
Ian began his journeys in 1963
when he asked for a two-year break from his job at Standard Telephones and
Cables in Paignton, Devon. But he went on to the circle the globe for ten
years and returned in 1973 with a “murmured apology” for his bosses.
His journeys included the only non-motorised crossing of Colombia's Atrato swamp and Panama's notoriously marsh ridden Darien Gap. He once rode from Antarctica to the Amazon
and from Alaska to Indonesia and in 1984 wrote a book about his voyages called
'In Remote Places'. But despite his travels Ian often complained the most
dangerous stretch of road in the world was between 'Windy Corner' and the
'old Nortel site' in Brixham.
Friend Nicola described him as a “world famous” rugged terrain cyclist, adventurer, photojournalist
and lecturer who inspired bikers around the world. She said: “He gained
a taste for travelling during his RAF service in the 1950s. He has pushed,
dragged or carried his bike from the fringes of the Antarctica to the jungles
of the Amazon, from the Arctic to the
remoter islands of Indonesia.”
Ian, a bachelor, died at the scene
of the crash and arrangements are underway for his body to be flown back to
the UK for a family funeral in South Gloucestershire.
Speaking about his passion in
2005, Ian said: “Every so often a bird gets up and flies some place that
it's drawn to “I don't suppose it could tell you why, but it does it
anyway.” Tributes were today being paid to him on various
websites. One - from his nephew - said: “He was a cycle tourist
extraordinaire. I grew up hearing the tales from his latest trips to
countries I had never heard of. “I always looked forward to seeing him
so I could hear his latest adventures from escaping from armies of soldier
ants as they ate his tent, to encounters with exotic tribes that had never
seen a white man before, much less one on a bicycle. “He was an
extraordinary man, and will be sadly missed by us, as I am sure he will by
others in the cycling fraternity.”
Ian was honoured by the League of American Wheelmen and by the UK's Cyclists Touring Club for his 'trail-blazing' tenacity. In the 1990s he was also
invited to address Yale University and subsequently lectured on both sides of
the Atlantic.
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Write in (2)… Exploring northern Mexico by Harold Dunn
Hi Ant,
Whatever happened to your
planned Antarctica trip? If I'd had a choice, I, too, would've chosen Brazil. Sounds like a great trip!
My passion is exploring
the backwaters of other cultures, places where nobody goes. I'm planning a
trip now for early '09 to the canyons of northern Mexico. Though I plan to
go alone, I would be willing to take others along with me. I've explored
several of the canyons of that area, and lived at the bottom of one of them
for several months. My home there was in Batopilas, Chihuahua, which is on
the river, 6000 feet below the canyon rim. The town then was a ten-hour
drive from the nearest paved road in Creel, Chihuahua, a major stop on the
Copper Canyon Railroad. Today it's only half that far from pavement, with
buses three times a week. Yet back in 1970 there was no road at all. It was
a 3-day mule ride to the closest dirt road! The town has about 1000
inhabitants now, but once was the largest city in northern Mexico. Silver was discovered there in 1590. The mines are shut down now, but hundreds of
miles of old tunnels remain to explore. Some are safe, others not. A friend
of mine lives in a house built in 1630, the oldest in town. So Batopilas
will be my first stop, to relax a few days and catch up on the local news.
Then off to the unknown.
Don't know where, but my heart draws me to three places:-
1) Topia, Durango, an ex-mining town much like Batopilas, yet with far fewer visitors. As a
passionate photographer, I would expect it to be exceptionally photogenic,
both the town and the mining ruins.
2) The lower canyon of the
Rio Basaseachi, starting about 10 miles below the famous falls and walking
downstream for a month or two, until I come to a road where the canyon ends, not
far from the ocean. I'm 70 and have mild arthritis, so will likely do only
about 5 or 10 miles a day. If the hip acts up too much, I would consider
renting a horse, or more likely a burro to carry my pack. Ill be in no
hurry, so might stop and hang out with the people wherever I feel welcome,
maybe staying a month or more in one place, or shorter spells in several.
Most of the way there'll be no roads at all, though some 4WD tracks penetrate
the canyon. So I'd expect the people to be living on isolated ranches and
completely self-sufficient, a throwback to a century or two back. My goal is
to meet new friends, capture some photos of a vanishing culture and
outstanding scenery, and write another book. Yet nothing is a must. I'll
just do what I feel like at the time. No deadlines or itinerary.
3) The town of Lluvia de Oro, once a thriving mining village, now deserted. It's the scene of part of
the best-selling book, “Lluvia de Oro, (Rain of Gold),” by my
friend Victor Villasenor. The town site is about a 10- or 20-mile hike from
a road, and likely only worth a couple of days. But I've long wanted to go
there.
Which of these would I
actually do? Who knows? I'll decide when I get there. The weather will be
ideal in midwinter for hiking the lower canyons. Very little rain and not
too hot. Up on the canyon rims, there'll be snow--not my idea of fun. So
I'll take my camping gear, camera, and notebook, but keep my pack light.
So if anyone wants to take
on a leisurely walk through lightly-populated areas where it never gets cold,
let me know. Since my timing and actual destination haven't yet been
finalized, I would be somewhat flexible. I'll leave no earlier than Jan. 1,
09 and return no later than April 15, 09 (the date when the bugs begin to
become bothersome in the lower canyons.) At this time I'm only thinking of
the deep canyons of northern Mexico, specifically in the states of Chihuahua, Durango, Sinaloa, and possibly Sonora.
If anyone is interested,
email me at heyyouhd@yahoo.com I'll
get back to you within a week. If our goals don't mesh, I could still direct
you to some great places to explore on your own, anywhere in Mexico, since I've been to all of the 31 states and lived in several of them. And I know
some fabulous canyons in the States, as well. The best are in Arizona and Utah, accessed thru Vegas. Some require rock climbing skills, while others
are an easy two-hour ramble. I find it thrilling to be in a canyon that's
4000' deep and only 50' wide--no place to walk except the river itself. I
can go nuts with my camera.
Next year, the Colca
Canyon of Peru, the world's deepest at 16,000 feet..I've been there once, but
want to hike to the bottom at the deepest spot. Then climb the 21K mountain
on the rim. That peak might be beyond my abilities, but I can give it a
try. Slowly.
Chow--
Harold Dunn
San Diego, California
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Write in (3)…Struggles with Australian Customs
by Fridgey
Back in January 2006
The Beetle posted a story in a previous edition about her experiences of
Australian customs office and since then other travellers have related to the
pain Beetle went through...see “The Beetle Struggles with Australian Customs”.
This time its Fridgey…maybe someone can offer an explanation as to why, or is
it that we just have to put up with this s**t ?
The Ant
Hi
Beetle, I am an Australian who was coming back from Fiji and was stopped in Brisbane International Airport and subjected to the rudest treatment I have
ever had the misfortune of experiencing. It took them about 45 minutes to
search 1 bag with my clothes in it, a computer bag and bag with cables and
computer accessories. This Customs officer was smirking at me at all times
trying to upset me which he succeeded. From the outset he was advised I am a
diabetic and diagnosed as clinically depressed. He proceeded to lie to me
and told me he had to search me because the x-ray machine showed I had
organic materials right throughout my luggage which was a bald faced lie. He
proceeded to read each and every document in my possession, read each and
every business card I had on me (as if they were looking for something to
change in identical business cards). After being subjected to all this crap
they called the police and had me charged with obstruction of a public
officer and I did nothing of the sort…so now they have changed the charges to
intimidation of a public official. The story goes on because I am now facing
criminal charges because of this idiot and his mates who helped him to annoy me.
At the end of the day they did not find anything illegal on me whatsoever
despite what they said their x-ray machine said was in my luggage. These
people have way too much power and they love to abuse their
powers.
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Write in (4)…Walking the Rhebok Hiking Trail by Matt Doughty
The following is about a trip I undertook with my friend Dom across the Southern Hemisphere during the winter of 1999. Rereading my journal about our amateur explorations makes me smile and remember things that had started to fade...anyway read on !
7 December 1998 and we began the walking odyssey we had initially set our sights on ! The Rhebuck Trail is a loop of 30 km round some of the most dramatic scenery that can be found in the Golden Gate National Park of South Africa, allowing hopeful spotters a number of chances to catch a range of wildlife - so we imagined anyway. Setting off from our base camp at the park entrance, our route followed outcrops and peaks with harsh sounding Dutch names - Die Brandwag and Bosklof stick in my memory. Dom’s measured pace seemed to be easy enough to cope with, despite the ever increasing sun light and a large pack set upon my back...
A yummy (!) chicken noodle lunch, eaten al-fresco on a hot little outcrop looking down out of our valley, gave us a view of where we were heading. We could see the Wilgenhof (youth hostel) and the Klein Caledon Rivier (Little Caledon for those non Dutch speakers), which we were unsure on how to cross. Recent flooding in the past months had swept debris and our trail downstream - lack of choice forced us to ford this river near to the main valley route of the R712. The final 3 kms up a side valley towards our overnight hut was uneventful enough to leave me feeling surprisingly fresh from what should have been a tiring day. A 30 minute foot dip in the nearby Ribbok Spruit felt almost as good as the oft desired long, cold lager ! Ominously my earlier bravado was weakening, as the earlier sunshine began to extract its own revenge upon my exposed flesh
Alone we sat in the darkening eve waiting for the impressive looking braal to fire our food, when the heavens opened with a wild thunder storm, hurling lightning and rain at all below it. Our valley was lit continually and our BBQ soaked thoroughly !! Along with trails of rain escaping ants, we sat in the hut munching on a gas heated gourmet alternative of tinned sausages and baked beans – Dom’s foresight again proving invaluable.
The next day was physically one of the longest day’s my life ! It began with us leaving the hut at 7.00 am and ploughing through the harsh undergrowth surrounding the Ribbok Spruit. My water cooled legs & feet failed to counter the stinging running across my upper torso and the mere thought of more sunburn forced drastic measures - a long sleeved top, a baseball cap and a somewhat smelly, old white t-shirt wrapped around my neck. Dom led me onwards through 4 sore kms and somehow away from the main trail - vegetation and flooding doing their worst once again. A tortuous alternative took us up and down the hills that surrounded the Generaalskop - a 2732 metre high and very cloud free mountain that sat looking contemptuously down upon us. We did spot Black Wildebeest and Eland as they scampered before our weary trudging but at this point I wasn’t interested in making any sort of David Attenborough documentary ! With his experience of hiking, Dom suggested we move up the General’s flanks to find our elusive trail but a sullen 30 minutes on my part almost had me insisting that we took a more appealing trail that seemed to hug the contours of the lower flanks. Eventually this trail, probably created by a Rhebuck, reunited us with the trail proper and all my thoughts of doom & gloom fled ! Dom thought that we had sped our way through the remaining 3 kms back to base camp at Glen Reenen 90 minutes. I was on autopilot and ignored even the chance of a swim in the lower reaches of the Buffelspruit. Never did hut no. 1 look so appealing ! Would I undertake such a journey again ? Once I had rid myself of my various aches and as long as I was better prepared physically, I reasoned that the masochistic streak within me would argue yes ! The rest of me would just roll my eyes heavenward or rather Ribbokkop wards !!
For more information about national parks in South Africa see - http://www.sanparks.org/
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Mac
says…
 Regular contributor Mac ruminates on the world of
travel & some of his adventures along the way J This
time round it’s passing on “Six Good Backpacking Habits” as highlighted by
Steve Gillman:-
1. Foot Care
Blisters and other foot
problems are not always just painful inconveniences. If they happen far
enough into a trip they can slow your hike out to the point where food runs
short or you just can't continue. You may know how to treat a blister or
trench foot, but good habits can prevent these from ever happening.
Make stopping several
times daily to air out your feet a part of your routine. Take off your shoes
and socks and set them in the sun. Pull out your insoles if you can. Soak
your feet in a cold stream if they are very hot, but be sure the skin is
entirely dry before putting the shoes back on. Change socks if necessary, and
let the wet pair hang from the pack to dry. Cover any “hot spots” with moleskin before they become blisters. This regular attention to your
feet may seem time consuming, but it will allow you to travel more miles more
safely.
2. Water Planning
Dehydration is always a
possibility when hiking in the wilderness. It is dangerous in hot weather and
it can even lead to hypothermia in cold (we need enough fluids for our bodies
to heat themselves properly). Plan ahead so you never get to the point of
being thirsty and without water.
Carry two water bottles,
and develop the following good backpacking habit. Anytime you cross a stream
or are near a water source, if one water bottle is less than half full,
finish it off and fill it. If you are using a water treatment chemical like
iodine, while it does its job you will still have the other bottle full of
water. If there is a long stretch coming without opportunities to collect
water, drink up both water bottles if practical, and fill them both. Also be
sure to start each trip fully hydrated. One more habit is to watch your urine.
Unless you are taking vitamin pills it will usually only be a deep yellow
when you aren't drinking enough fluids.
3. Watch The Weather
It is a good habit to
watch the weather reports before you go backpacking. You can get the forecast
for anywhere in the world now online. But you also should be looking at that
sky from time to time, and be aware of any changes. It is common to have
lightning almost every afternoon in some mountain areas, for example. If the
trail you are on is heading up high and you see the clouds forming, you might
want to wait where you are until after the storms.
Learn to observe the skies
in the direction where the weather is coming from, and also where it will
affect you. If the streams you are crossing are fed by the mountains in the
distance, and you see heavy rain clouds there, you might soon see a rise in
water levels. Also, if you see the whole sky clearing out at sunset, you may
be in for a cold night. Learn and observe.
4. Cell Phones
When backpacking, it's a good
habit to fully charge your cell phone before you leave. Then turn it off. The
primary reason to even bring it is to have a way to call for help. Preserve
the batteries for just such an event. It's not fun to continually hear the
phone ringing in the wilderness anyhow.
5. GPS
If you have a GPS unit,
put fresh batteries in it before every trip. Then “mark” your car
or the trailhead just before you hit the trail. A GPS can walk you right back
to the vehicle if you remember to enter it as a landmark. Otherwise, it may
not help much to just know your coordinates.
6. Leave An Itinerary
One of the backpacking
habits most important to your safety, is to let someone you trust know where
you will be and when you expect to return. That way if all else fails, help
will be sent out there to look for you. Just be sure to notify that person as
soon as you do return, so they don't think you are still out in the
wilderness.
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In the eNewsletter
If you enjoy writing, enjoy travelling,
why not write for the free Globetrotters eNewsletter! The Ant would love to
hear from you: your travel stories, anecdotes, jokes, questions, hints and
tips, or your hometown or somewhere of special interest to you. Over 14,000
people currently subscribe to the Globetrotter eNewsletter.
Email The Ant at theant@globetrotters.co.uk with your travel experiences / hints & tips / questions. Your article
should be up to 750 words, feature up to 3 or 4 jpeg photos and introduce
yourself with a couple of sentences and a contact e-mail address.
News from the travel world
·
The August 2009
Newsletter [Winston Churchill Memorial Trust] is now available to see on our
website www.wcmt.org.uk and download if
required.
Applications for 2009 are still open
until 14 October 2008. I do ask you all for your help in spreading the word
about the value of a Fellowship and getting as many people to apply as
possible. If each Fellow was able to get at least one person to apply it
would make a real difference.
From Jamie Balfour
·
Passengers to be
quizzed on airport experience - CAA to make recommendations from findings in
new year
Read more at
http://www.travelmole.com/stories/1130991.php
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Start a branch…
If any Globetrotters member would like to
start a branch, whether it is in Aberdeen or Zanzibar, see our FAQ or
contact our Branch Liaison Officer via our web site at Meeting FAQ.
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Rosie Swale Pope has completed
her five year run !
Congratulations to Rosie, a previous London branch speaker, for completing her epic journey back in her home town of Tenby, Wales on 25 August 2008.
Read more at http://www.rosiearoundtheworld.co.uk/
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GT Travel Award
A member of Globetrotters Club ?
Interested in a £1,000 travel award ? Know someone who is ? We have up to two
£1,000 awards to give out this year for the best independent travel plan,
as judged by the club’s Committee.
See the legacy page on our
web site, where you can apply with your plans for a totally independent
travel trip and we'll take a look at it. Get those plans in, as the next
Legacy deadline will be 31 October 2008 !!
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Web sites to…
·
I TRAVEL – THEREFORE I AM
For fourteen years now, The Independent
Adventure Travel Show – London, has led people to explore, dream and
discover.
This year’s Independent Adventure Travel
Show runs from 20-22nd March 2009 in Olympia’s National Hall. The event
gathers together leading tour operators and destinations to showcase all the
latest trends in adventure travel.
For more information on the event visit
the website at www.adventureshow.co.uk
·
Alaskan travel and maybe Vice
Presidential candidates - http://www.traveltidingsalaska.com/
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Riyals to Kwatcha
Need to convert currency ?
Take a look at The Globetrotters Currency Converter - get the exchange
rates for 164 currencies The Globetrotters Currency Cheat Sheet - create and print a currency converter table for your next trip.
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Can you help ?
·
“I’m considering a 'Grande
Tour' of Europe’s capitals and am looking for advice on transport. Current
thoughts are:-
·
Coach which is cheap, but only
I’d want to only make 1 stop per country
·
Train - a1 month pass would put
pressure to keep moving to get value.
Contacted travel journalist who suggested
airplane there and back etc”
Reply to Ray Jones at rj56@hotmail.co.uk
·
“Good afternoon,
I want to flight from London to Argentina (Buenos Aires) , return ticket , leaving from London around 6 October and be back in London around 20th December. I am really interested about the courier flight (for get
cheaper flight) but I can’t find any contacts information how to get them or
where to look or who to call.
Could you please give me some information
who I can contact ?
Thank you very much,
Kind regards,
Diana
Reply to Diana Duarte at hotodmd@gmail.com
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