 Welcome to eNewsletter August 2010
Hello all,
In this summer edition I’ve got quite a
few things for you to mull over whilst you enjoy Europe and North America’s
holiday season...
What has been happening lately across
the club & the wider world ?
· Ed Stafford & Cho his guide
have completed their epic walk along the length of the Amazon river – see http://www.edstafford.org/ for more up to date details
· A report on July’s meeting at
the London branch
· A report on July’s meeting at
the Chester branch
What is coming up soon for the club
& friends ?
· Hot off the press : the London
branch meeting programme from September onward is starting to be booked up by
the Committee and this is what we have for you thus far:-
- September 4th 2010
- Julia Massey-Stewart — Photography and travelling
- Philip Koniotes — Cycling along the Danube from Germany to Hungary
- October 2nd 2010
- The club’s
AGM at 1.30 then at 2.30
- Paul Watkins — Welcome to Arcadia: Travels in good company
- Marion Bull — In search of the 'Dunedin Star' - Namibian Skeleton Coast wreck
· And the September Chester
branch meeting programme from September onward is also starting to come
together with two lectures in place:-
o The Emperor's River by Liam
D'Arcy-Brown who traces the Grand Canal of China - the world's longest and
oldest manmade waterway - from Hangzhou to Beijing
o A sailing journey through
Europe from Scillies-Scotland-S.Coast-Netherlands&Scandinavia-French
Canals-Mallorca by Brian Burnett
· Mark Annis, son of long term
London member Tony is exhibiting his latest work at the Rubens Gallery,
Rosebury Road, London in September...more details can requested for at http://www.anniscreations.co.uk/
· London’s last festival of the
season, the Thames Festival, will be entertaining many of us along the south
side of the river on the 11 & 12 September and as these details show it
promises to be as enjoyable as previous years - http://www.thamesfestival.org/
And finally...
· We’ve got an article from new
author Jeff Houle about an historic indigenous people of Bolivia he recently
visited
· An update about the club’s
travel award and the web site’s legacy page as well – hopefully helping to
inspire more applicants !
That’s all for now and keep enjoying
the summer & your trips...and then tell us about them J
The Ant
theant@globetrotters.co.uk
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July meeting news from the London branch
The end of season
meeting for London means its members slide time – this year we enjoyed nine
good speakers who took us to a variety of destinations around the world and
for a whole host of reasons !
Zara Taylor : The face
of Bangladesh. Zara headed out to
Bangladesh over Christmas 2009 and was immediately struck how unlike India
the country is, despite being nearly landlocked by its larger neighbour. Her
tour took her to the national park near Mongia NOT to see any Bengal Tigers, to
the alleged longest beach in the world at Cox’s Bazaar and into contact with
the hill tribes near Chittagong. Summing up, Zara noted that the rivers of
Bangladesh are its commercial lifeblood, its roads, its way of life...
Andrew Redwood : North
Korea. Andrew started off talking
about his twin drivers in going to North Korea – dread & curiosity ! To
the chagrin of independent travellers like Andres, there is no solo travels –
all tourism & visits are through strictly licensed companies and guides.
As you might expect the country is virulent in its anti US propaganda and the
masses & the army are always drilling in preparation... However there
are brighter sights – particular aboard the train from Beijing, whereas the
constant vigilance eases & time to view is more free flowing.
David Shamesh
:Mediterranean cruise. David
whistled us around some of the Mediterranean’s more renowned ports of
call...Cadiz, Gibraltar, Sardina & Rome being his photographic
highlights.
John & Roz Williams
: Iceland. Entertaining duo John
& Roz showed us some good photos of Iceland in June. Their itinerary
treated us to the highlights of Husavik for whale watching, numerous
waterfalls, Fumaroles near Myvatn bubbling sulphur laden warm waters and then
across to the Western Fjords. You could almost smell the distaste as John
described the locally delicacy of fermented shark ! All in all a top talk
and where next for John & Roz I wonder...
Sue Baker : Hunting for
Erica ! Two years ago in Capetown
Sue shared time with her son & a travelling friend enjoying the
landscapes & diversity of South Africa – Robben Island, mountain walking,
wine tours in the Stellenbosch locality before searching for Erica... Only
up in the Cederberg Mountains did the audience understand who/what Erica
was...after we’d been spoilt by the Maltese Cross & ancient cave
paintings along Sue’s journey.
Picture courtesy
of PlantzAfrica.com : Erica plukenetii
Phil Ferguson : Assam
& Nagaland. Phil’s travels
were again well highlighted – this time he was off in the less well exposed
north east Indian states of Assam & Nagaland...
Dan Bachmann : Albania
& Kosovo. Dan continues on
one of his quests - to visit every country in Europe ! This time it was
Albania & Kosovo, as he sought beaches & whether there was any truth
in the perception that he was supposedly heading into a land of thieves &
murderers. Dan found a more relaxed nation, working through to a modern
world of Italian tourists & businessmen, what to do with Enver Hoxha’s
bunkers and taking excellent evening sunshine photos.
Liz Cooper :The
Galungan Festival in Bali.
Knowledgeable travellers Liz headed off to the Galungan Festival, where the
many Indonesian peoples thank god for his creations on earth and all its
content. As you might expect it was a presentation of colour, noise and
fascinating people...
Jacqui Trotter : New
York. Our very hardworking
committee member Jacqui zipped off to NYC to help celebrate a friend’s
birthday and relaxed by spending a whole day walking around Central Park and
getting lost, whilst wandering around one of the busiest cities on the planet
!!
Details of the London
branch’s forthcoming meetings will soon be detailed at http://globetrotters.co.uk/meetings/lon10it.html
The London branch
meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune
Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month, unless
there is a UK public holiday that weekend. There is no London meeting in
August, but we start afresh in September. For more information, contact the
Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 7193 2586, or visit the web site: www.globetrotters.co.uk.
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Meeting news from the Chester branch by Hanna &
Angela
The
meeting of 17th July was well attended again in Chester and the first talk
was given by Cheron and Roger Turner. They had planned a journey in the
footsteps of the writer Michael Wood, through Tamil Nadhu Southern India. After
making the arrangements with a local travel agent, they arrived there to find
the agent had closed and they had to find their own way around. With the help
of local people Cheron and Roger set off on their Temple Trail by taxi. The
journey included most Temples from Michael Woods journey "The Smile of
Murugan" the book that inspired them to go on this journey. Lovely
pictures and a great story, we all wanted to visit South India and see for
ourselves!
After the break for
something completely different, Holidays at Home, Wales and Cumbria by Travel
writer David Atkinson. This was a practical advice driven talk, highlighting
some insider tips for visiting Wales and Cumbria. David Atkinson was talking
about his Guidebook about Cumbria, especially to include children and
introduce them to the pleasure of travel.
We
all had a good time in the break as well, meeting others again, some had
really good tips to go by, e.g. visit Poland for £2 with Easy Jet. We
finished the biscuits again and by about 4.30pm we started for home again, a
great day !
The next meeting is on
the Saturday 18 September at the Grosvenor Museum at the usual time of 1.0pm
meeting for a 1.30pm start.
Tickets £2 including
refreshments.
Contact Angela or Hanna
for further information of this & future events at Chester via email at chesterbranch@globetrotters.co.uk
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Meeting news from the Ontario branch
For information on Ontario
meetings, please contact Svatka Hermanek: shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb:
tel. 416-694-8259.
The Ontario branch
meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and
November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in
downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.
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Write in (1)...The Mysteries of Tiwanaku by Jeff
Houle
For
a moment I understood why some would think that aliens had constructed these
commanding ancient walls. Not even my site brochure would fit into the
mortarless joints that separated the monstrous monoliths, whose journey to
their resting place is not easily explained.
I
was in Tiwanaku in western Bolivia, 44 kilometers west of La Paz and close to
the border with Peru. The city was occupied between 500 and 950 AD before a
drought pushed the population out of the region[1].
The residents of what would have been then an imposing city left no written
record of their story, leaving the majority of their history to the
conjecture of modern archaeologists and science fiction enthusiasts.
The
site sits 13,000 feet above sea level in the dry, flesh-colored Andes
Mountains[2].
It is believed by archaeologists that Tiwanaku was originally inhabited by up
to 30,000 people at its peak, and was sprawled out over 2.6 square kilometers[3].
Although there are other Tiwanaku sites in the area, such as Lukurmata, a
ceremonial center, Tiwanaku itself was the most important, serving as a
religious and administrative capital of a vast empire that pre-dated the
famed Incas[4].
All
that now remains for tourists to visit are the walls and foundations of a few
buildings, as well as a few standing gateways, on a patch of land that
occupies only a small fraction of the original expanse. The most important
of these is arguably the cracked Gateway of the Sun, which has become
something of an icon in Bolivia. It symbolizes the importance of the culture
through images of “Staffed Gods,” anthropomorphic figures bearing staffs that
were most likely ritual practitioners, according to archaeologists[5].
Although
much of the city has not stood strong against the test of time, what still
exists and what is known of what existed is more than enough to stir up
questions about the mystery of the place.
Staring
up at the walls that dwarf my 5’ 10’’ frame, my first question is: How did
the enormous stones get to Tiwanaku? Great feats of strength must explain
how the red sandstone blocks, which can weigh up to 130 tons each and were
used for the buildings and walls, traveled 10 kilometers from the nearest
quarry[6].
It is also difficult to explain how a culture without 18-wheelers could
manage the transport of andesite, green stones that were used for the
intricate decorative carvings. Each weighed up to 40 tons and was brought to
Tiwanaku from the other side of Lake Titicaca, a distance of 90 kilometers
over water and another ten over land[7].
  
Pointing
to the remains of what appeared to be ancient canals, my Bolivian tour guide
explains the popular theory, which says the blocks were transported by reed
rafts on rivers and canals to Tiwanaku after being hauled on logs from their
original sites. Small pools of water rest in these canals now, showing that
they were once capable of holding liquid, but imagining them as them as the
great tools of movement that they once were requires a stretch of my
imagination.
Assuming
that my tour guide is correct, and that the transportation was indeed
possible, the mysteries of Tiwanaku are still far from solved. Once the
giant stones arrived, how did the buildings’ architects find a way to stack
these blocks with perfect precision? No mortar was used, and nor was it
needed, because alone the joints seem perfectly crafted, even to a modern
eye.
A
creative few have clung to an imaginative theory that claims such
achievements could have only been accomplished by technical advancements not
known to mankind at the time. These theorists say the precision of the
joints and the magnitude of the structure must have been the result of aliens
and their extraterrestrial techniques.
One
such theorist, Erich von Daniken, included Tiwanaku in his book, “Chariots of
the Gods,” which he published in 1968. In it, he claims that many of the
famous ancient structures that have fascinated the world for centuries were
only possible through the technology given to these cultures by visitors from
other planets who were seen as gods[8].
My guide mentioned an angular rock structure on the site, which adherents of
the alien theory claim was a launching pad for spacecraft.
Von
Daniken also includes the nearby Nazca lines in his theory, as well as
Stonehenge and the Egyptian Pyramids[9].
The aliens, he believes, were globally influential.
Another
theory came from an early 20th century Austrian astronomer, H.S.
Bellamy, who didn’t believe that advanced civilizations could exist at such
altitude and posited that the city was a result of the collision of the Earth
with one of its former moons[10].
Even
the Incas, who discovered Tiwanaku hundreds of years after it had been
abandoned, had their own theories to relieve their discomfort with the idea
that an advanced culture could have existed before their own. They claimed
that the first Incas were created with clay from area by the deity Viracocha,
and that the monoliths stand as a solemn reminder of the act[11].
I
remain skeptical of the more extreme theories, though I can admit it is
easier to explain the mysteries with tales of visitors from space than to
imagine all of the blood, sweat, tears and probably lives that went into the
construction of this amazing city.
Places
like Tiwanaku remind travelers what incredible work mankind is capable of.
This is one of the reasons people travel, after all; to see up close what
remains of this world’s history so that we might know how we got to where we
are and provide insights to where we are going.
I
leave Tiwanaku still pondering my questions, but also feeling uniquely
privileged to experience such a remarkable, and little understood, period of
human history.
*****
Interested
in making the trip yourself?
I
traveled in November of 2009 and used a local guide named Rene Jaldin
Andrade, who was based out of La Paz. If you decide to hire a local guide on
your own rather than through a travel agency, it’s always good to make sure
he or she is certified by ASOGUIATUR, the local association of tour guides.
How
to get there:
Most
visitors come for the day from La Paz. For the cheapest travel option, catch
a bus outside of the main cemetery (“cementerio” in Spanish). The trip takes
between one and one and a half hours and costs less than $2. You can also
ride on a tour bus service for about $1.50. Try Transportes Tiwanaku (Tel.
7191-4889). Another option is to hire a taxi from La Paz to take you for a
round trip journey. Including wait time, this will cost around $30 - $40,
and most hotels can help you find a safe driver. The last option, and
perhaps the most popular, is to arrange a tour with a bilingual guide from a
travel agency in La Paz. Most travel agencies will offer half day or full
day tours. Try Transporte Turistico Bolivia (Tel. 231-6971, http://www.transporteturisticobolivia.com/).
Getting
in:
The
main site costs $10 and is open from 9:30 a.m. – 4 p.m. The onsite museum,
Museo Litico Monumental, also costs $10 and is open from 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.
Where
to stay:
Most
travelers choose to visit Tiwanaku on a day trip from La Paz, but if you
would like to stay the night, there is a small village next to the site. Try
the Gran Hotel Tiwanaku (Tel. 289-8548, Bolivar 903), the nicest hotel in
town, and at $30 - $40 a night per person, also a good deal. They also have
a restaurant.
Footnotes:
- [1]“Tiwanaku.” (Center for Advanced Spatial Technologies, University
of Arkansas and the University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and
Anthropology, 2007). http://cast.uark.edu/projects/tiwanaku/about.html.
- [2]Ibid.
- [3]Mutic, Anja, Kate Armstrong, and Paul Smith. Bolivia. (Lonely
Planet Publications Pty Ltd, 2010) 94.
- Kolata, Alan L.The Tiwanaku: Portrait of an Andean
Civilization.(Wiley-Blackwell: December 15, 1993).
- Silverman, Helaine.Andean Archaeology Volume 2. (Malden,
MA: Blackwell Publishing, 2004).
- Harmon, Paul. “Experimental Archaeology.” Archaeology
Magazine. (Archaeological Institure of America, 2004). <
http://www.archaeology.org/interactive/tiwanaku/project/experiment.html >
- Ibid.
- “Tiwanaku.”
- Ibid.
- Ibid.
- Ibid.
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Write in (2)...Comments
from readers
Previously
my predecessor The Beetle requested readers help with naming her cheese, as
produced on her farm in the Yorkshire Dales. Here are a couple of replies
that might help other suggestions along and any marketing campaigns J
Audrey
from Florida says “I vote for Dales Select. Anywhere I can buy it here ?”
 Mac, our
regular contributor writes that “Ribblesdale Goat is a modern vegetarian (I
had never heard the vegetarian angle) hard cheese created in 1982 by Iain and
Christine Hill. Ribblesdale goat is highly valued for its fresh simple
flavor with its suggestion of chicory, almonds, and wild herbs from the misty
Yorkshire hills. Ribblesdale Goat won a Bronze Award in the 1996 British
Cheese Awards. Although normally a goats cheese it is also available from
ewes milk and a smoked cheese . Ribblesdale cheese can be served as a table cheese
or for grated toppings. All Ribblesdale Cheeses supplied are handmade and
waxed coated giving the cheese a long shelf time of approximately 80 days.
Sadly Iain Hill passed away in November 2006 but is succeeded by his niece
Iona Hill who maintains the family tradition. Suitable for vegetarians, suitable
for freezing...”
Mac
also jokes “Groups of Americans were traveling by tour bus through Holland
.. As they stopped at a cheese farm, a young guide led them through the
process of cheese making, explaining that goat's milk was used. She showed
the group a lovely hillside where many goats were grazing. 'These' she
explained, 'Are the older goats put out to pasture when they no longer
produce.' She then asked, 'What do you do in America with your old goats?'
A spry old gentleman answered, 'They send us on bus tours’
Mac
writes even more – “George stopped me in the hallway all excited and said Hey
Mac I tasted your friends Ribblesdale cheese in Meknes Morocco in about 2003
or 2004. He said he was on a tour bus and an English lady invited him to join
him for a spot of tea on the beach. He said the lady had a little wicker
basket and in it some Ribblesdale Cheese.
He
said he remembered it first because of its unique name, then its unique
flavor and that it was made from goats milk. He liked it. Maybe you should
keep the name Ripplesdale since it made such an impression on him. I do think
adding Yorkshire to word Dale would add more sophistication and not have some
of us ignorant Americans think it is referring to a man’s name.
He
thought the cheese was in a green wrapper. Maybe the English woman just put
it in a green wrapper.”
George
is quoted as saying “I Summit Your Friend New International Cheese Name Is :
" World Famous Yorkshire Dales Ribblesdale Cheese " And Below A
Picture Of A Bearded Goat, And In Smaller Lettering " The Ribblesdale
Goats Do It "
“Also
Had Visions Of This Cheese In Eye Catching, Wrapped Green, With White
Circle, With The Black Lettering Divided By A Golden Bearded Goat Head
Figure.
Your
Friend Will Become A Million Pounder !!!!”
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Write in (2)…News
from Trailblazer by Caroline Gray
Hello,
Trailblazer is about to
publish The Silk Roads: a route and planning guide 3rd edition.
It's a practical travel
guide to the Silk Roads, the greatest trade route of all time. Content
includes:
* Planning your trip -
information for all budgets whether you're an independent traveller or
joining a group
* Practical information
for travellers in Turkey, Syria, Iran, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan,
Pakistan, China
* 55 city guides with maps
- where to stay, where to eat and what to see
* Also includes
lesser-known routes
* Extensive history of the
Silk Roads
* Useful phrases in
Arabic, Farsi, Russian and Chinese
The book is paperback,
450pp, with colour and B&W photos.
See http://www.trailblazer-guides.com/ for more details.
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Write in (4)…A
request via the Chester branch
Hi Everyone,
There will be an exhibition in the
Grosvenor Museum at beginning of next year and the organisers would like you
travellers to be involved, so have a read and send your entries to: lucy.ashdown@cheshirewestandchester.gov.uk
According to Lucy what would look good in
the exhibition would be a selection of photos from Chester Globetrotters
showing different vehicles (defined here as transport with wheels or runners)
they've come across or used in different countries, accompanied by a short
piece of text.
Lucy is not sure how much space there will
be available in the gallery, but she’ll try & fit in at least one photo
from everyone who submits something.
For the text, she’d like to know where
each photo was taken & when and also why/how the vehicle was important
to each person's experience of that particular country.
Globetrotters can email photos & text
directly to Lucy by the end of September preferably.
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News in the world of travel (1)
BP oil spill - the reality. TravelMole US
Editor David Wilkening explains how misconceptions are causing further
damage to tourism in the Gulf Coast.
"Damage forecasts soon after the BP Gulf oil
spill were bad. But then they got worse. Dead birds. Soiled beaches.
The reality, however, is that the spill led to
the deaths of less than one percent of the number of birds killed in the
Valdez spill.
The spill was enough oil to fill about one- sixth
of the Louisiana Superdome.
“That’s not exactly a drop in the proverbial
bucket, but it’s a strikingly different image from one emblazoned in
people’s mind by the early reaction,” writes USA Today in an editorial.
Could there be unknown seabed damage? “So far, it
seems the wildest predictions were just that -- wild,” said the newspaper.
The publication suggested the news media did a
poor job of providing accurate information about the event. There were many
exaggerations.
Gulf coast tourism officials say the real problem
with the spill has been perception.
Read more at http://www.travelmole.com/stories/1143673.php |
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News in the world of travel (2)
US to start charging for tourist entry
European travellers to the US will have to pay an extra $14 from
next month for electronic visas.
The visas, known as an Electronic System for Travel
Authorisation (Esta), have been compulsory for UK tourists and other European
visitors since January 2009.
At present, they are free, but from September 8, the US will
start charging $14, or around £9 based on the current exchange rates.
The move has been criticised by the European Union, which said
it could deter or complicate travel.
Consumer groups are advising people planning a trip to the US to
apply now, before the new charge comes into force.
Read more at http://www.travelmole.com/stories/1143622.php
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Email The Ant at theant@globetrotters.co.uk with your travel experiences / hints & tips /
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Start a branch…
If any Globetrotters member would like to
start a branch, whether it is in Aberdeen or Zanzibar, see our FAQ or
contact our Branch Liaison Officer via our web site at Meeting FAQ.
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GT Travel Award
2010
News – the first winner of 2010 has been announced by the club’s Committee
and it is Doug Allen. Congratulations to him and we look forward to hearing
about his forthcoming adventures in the Congo !
Next award – Are you inspired by Doug ? Are you ready for
you own adventure ? The deadline to receive applications for the next award
is 30 October 2010.
Background - A member of Globetrotters Club and interested in
winning a £1,000 travel award ? Know someone who fits these criteria ? We
have up to two £1,000 awards to give out this year for the best
independent travel plan, as judged by the club’s Committee.
See the recently revamped legacy page on the club’s
web site, where you can review previous winners’ trips and/or apply with your
plans for a totally independent, travel trip.
If your idea catches our eye we'll take a closer
look at what you’re proposing !!
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Web sites to
muse about travel to:-
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Riyals to Kwatcha
Need to convert a currency ?
Take a look at The Globetrotters Currency Converter - get the exchange rates for 164 currencies The Globetrotters Currency
Cheat Sheet - create and print a
currency converter table for your next trip.
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