I’ve been to Japan before, to Honshu, but have not explored the
\n southern parts, so this trip was designed at seeing Kyushu. I flew into
\n Fukuoka as an entry point via Seoul that is a lot cheaper than going to
\n Nagasaki. My trip had three bases: I used Beppu as a base to see the Hells,
\n and Usuki, Kagoshima to see Sakaragima (a volcano), Ibosuki (sand baths),
\n Shiran (the kamikaze museum) and finally Kamomoto for the city itself
\n and Mt Aso. <\/p>\n
Kyushu is nothing like as busy as Honshu and doesn’t seem quite
\n as affluent. The trains and buses all ran on time. Kyushu is probably
\n cheaper than Honshu for accommodation – I spent on average £23
\n a night in mostly Ryokans – good value – and can all be booked
\n through the Japanese Inn group. There are also far fewer foreigners and
\n tourists in Kyushu than Honshu. <\/p>\n
It's less than a year since I last came through Seoul airport. A
\n year ago it was a busy, heaving place with all the restaurants and shops
\n packed out. Today you can go in anywhere and do anything without waiting.
\n I think SARS is having a big effect. There are lots of people walking
\n around with masks on, should I have got one I ask myself? There’s
\n not even much in the shops. I just cannot believe how quiet this airport
\n is, there's nobody rushing, no announcements, there's only about
\n 10 flights on the departures board. <\/p>\n
Arrived in the city with the best 3-letter airport code I know Fukuoka
\n (FUK)!!! Got the shuttle bus then the ultra efficient metro in to the
\n city. I was glad that I had my compass to come out of right exit. Then
\n a 10 min walk to my hotel: very nice, tiny room, probably big for Japan,
\n but it has a bed, shower, TV and its own ultra efficient kettle, very
\n handy! Apparently a rice breakfast is included but as I didn’t wake
\n up till 9am, I missed it! Fukuoka is a big modern city, nobody here has
\n a mask on there is not much for a tourist to see, it is more of an entry
\n port. <\/p>\n
I took a side trip from Fukuoka to Dazaifu to see a shrine and a couple
\n of Zen gardens. They are great with all their symbolism. Loads of parties
\n of school kids going “Herro” i.e. “hello” and “England
\n number 1”. All of it is good natured, and people have been so helpful:
\n I had 3 old dears put me on the right train this morning! <\/p>\n
Took ages to cash travellers cheques, because they are issued by Barclays
\n via Sumitomo Bank. This meant that I had to find a Sumitomo Bank to cash
\n them. It rained yesterday afternoon, so I went to a baseball match in
\n the Fukuoka Dome, which was fun. I like baseball, and went to lots of
\n games when I visited the USA. The Japanese cheerleaders are nuts, they
\n keep up this constant barrage of noise and at 7th inning stretch they
\n all let off balloons with whistles in – you should hear it! Also visited
\n the museum of contemporary Asian art, some nice things and some so decidedly
\n strange that they would not look amiss in the Tate Modern in London! <\/p>\n
I’m surviving with the food ok, (Padmassana has been known
\n to be a bit of a picky eater – the Beetle!)<\/i> bought some hot
\n tofu on sticks and stuck them in some bread rolls with my pea crisps for
\n a picnic today, they even have little pods! KFC etc for major meals. Body
\n clock not happy, keep waking between 2am-4am, then can’t get back
\n to sleep till 6am. <\/p>\n
Up early today, getting the train to Beppu. Took about 4 hours to get
\n from Fukuoka to Beppu. Beppu is famous for the Hells. If anyone tells
\n you Beppu is a “Hell” of a place it’s true! I checked
\n in at Beppu Hotel and went to the tourist office to ask for directions.
\n The man at the tourist office took me right to the door. I don’t
\n think that would happen in London! <\/p>\n
The Hells, as I have already said are Beppu’s claim to fame: a
\n series of hot springs that are different colours due to the underlying
\n rocks and minerals etc, one is bright red. A 2,000 yen ticket allows you
\n visit all seven. Some are boiling mud pots, but most are steam. The last
\n one is a sort of geyser that explodes every 20 minutes. It took me 4 hours
\n to go round them including a bus ride between two sets. <\/p>\n
Did a day trip from Beppu, about an hour and a half by train to visit
\n some stone Buddhas, dating from the 10th century. You walk up a short
\n hill and then see lines of Buddhas carved into the hill. These are reputed
\n to be the best and oldest examples of stone Buddhas in Japan. Also visited
\n Usuki from Beppu. The town itself is quite nice, has an old street of
\n houses that are interesting. There was torrential rain, so the rent a
\n brolly lady was doing a good trade! I am staying in a business type hotel
\n that has free tea on every floor. I managed to sleep through the night
\n for the first time since arriving. Despite the weather, another nice day,
\n a country where you feel safe and the people are fantastic. <\/p>\n