{"id":865,"date":"2003-01-27T23:00:00","date_gmt":"2003-01-27T23:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/2003\/01\/27\/trekking-the-indian-himalayas-with-carol-and-martin-noval-across-the-parang-la-pass-to-tso-moriri-lake-in-tibetan-buddhist-spiti\/"},"modified":"2018-01-02T07:34:15","modified_gmt":"2018-01-02T07:34:15","slug":"trekking-the-indian-himalayas-with-carol-and-martin-noval-across-the-parang-la-pass-to-tso-moriri-lake-in-tibetan-buddhist-spiti","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/trekking-the-indian-himalayas-with-carol-and-martin-noval-across-the-parang-la-pass-to-tso-moriri-lake-in-tibetan-buddhist-spiti.html","title":{"rendered":"Trekking the Indian Himalayas with Carol and\n Martin Noval: Across the Parang La Pass to Tso Moriri Lake in Tibetan\n Buddhist Spiti"},"content":{"rendered":"<p> Last July&#039;s trek over the 5600-meter (18,300 foot) high Parang La<br \/>\n pass from Spiti, a remote high-altitude Tibetan Buddhist region in the<br \/>\n north Indian State of Himachal Pradesh, to the vast, electric blue Tso<br \/>\n Moriri lake on the high Changtang Plateau in Western Ladakh was a trip<br \/>\n that we are all still raving about. <\/p>\n<p> The scenery is spectacular and the wildlife and meetings with the nomads<br \/>\n who inhabit this area are unforgettable. It was the perfect trek&#8211;just<br \/>\n long enough to get into it and begin to feel that body and mind have been<br \/>\n transformed (nine days including two rest days). It was a group from Switzerland<br \/>\n that joined us. We&#039;ll be leading this 21-day trip again next July<br \/>\n (2003), and we&#039;re already looking forward to it. The drive into the<br \/>\n Himalayas follows a stunning route that really shows off the grandeur<br \/>\n and extent of these mountains and valleys. We toured, while at the same<br \/>\n time acclimatizing to the altitude, in Kullu, Lahaul and Spiti, not far<br \/>\n from Tibet and very much like it, before actually starting the walk. <\/p>\n<p> In the lush, heavily forested Kullu Valley at the foot of the Great<br \/>\n Himalayan Range we visited ancient temples, the bazaar town of Manali,<br \/>\n and Naggar, the valley&#039;s ancient capital and home to the Roerich Gallery.<br \/>\n Nikolai Roerich, philosopher, mystic, occultist and painter, who was,<br \/>\n strangely enough, responsible for getting the pyramid with the eye put<br \/>\n on the US one dollar bill, was so taken with the beauty of this valley<br \/>\n that he made Naggar his home and painted splendid scenes of the mountains.<br \/>\n We walked through the impressive forest around Naggar to start stretching<br \/>\n our legs and lungs. <\/p>\n<p> We drove over the mighty 14,000-foot Rohtang Pass into Lahaul, a land<br \/>\n of mountains, glaciers and mighty waterfalls. We were now in the heart<br \/>\n of the Himalayas. We crossed the Kunzum Pass and stopped at the top to<br \/>\n look at the chortens (Buddhist reliquary mounds) and Hindu temples, the<br \/>\n area strung with a multitude of, colorful, fluttering prayer flags, and<br \/>\n of course to admire the views. As we drove down the pass into Spiti a<br \/>\n herd of yaks came storming down the mountainside looking like big dogs<br \/>\n at play. What a sight! In Spiti we toured villages and dramatically perched<br \/>\n monasteries, repositories of Tibetan art and sculpture, with lively populations<br \/>\n of traditional people and maroon-robed lamas. It&#039;s a magnificent region,<br \/>\n the place where the Indian subcontinent first made contact with the Asian<br \/>\n mainland in that long-ago collision of continents that created the Himalayas.\n <\/p>\n<p> On the morning the trek began our horses and crew assembled below our<br \/>\n hotel and loaded the supplies, gear and tents (dining and lounge tent,<br \/>\n kitchen tent and sleeping tents) while we started walking, carrying only<br \/>\n our small daypacks. It took us about 4 hours to reach our first camp with<br \/>\n a stop for lunch on the way. After reaching camp we had steaming bowls<br \/>\n of noodle soup and tea and biscuits prepared by Sonam, our ever-smiling<br \/>\n cook, and we began to take in this amazing place. What a spot it was:<br \/>\n nestled in a bowl of mountains with gorgeous peaks in every direction<br \/>\n and low growing shrubs covered in yellow flowers (caragana brevifolia).<br \/>\n We spent a rest day there to acclimatize and get into being in the high<br \/>\n mountains. Some of us did a walk to a spot on the edge of a cliff over<br \/>\n a river valley from where we had a view of the Parang La pass. <\/p>\n<p> But it would be another two days of steep walking before we&#039;d cross<br \/>\n it. The pass is 18,300 feet high, so even though we started walking high<br \/>\n in Spiti, at about 16,000 feet, we still had altitude to gain. These paths<br \/>\n are made for walking, for they are used by nomads, shepherds and traders<br \/>\n from Tibet, so even though we were gaining altitude the going was not<br \/>\n that difficult, no big steps or leaps, though some of the grades were<br \/>\n fairly steep. Our legs and lungs were getting a really good stretch now.<br \/>\n It felt as though we were on another planet and all thoughts of the &#8220;real<br \/>\n world&#8221; were far away. We just concentrated on where we were, drinking<br \/>\n in the sublime beauty of it all. <\/p>\n<p> This trek has everything: the Parang La pass with great views in every<br \/>\n direction, an easy walk over a glacier on the other side, then three days<br \/>\n of great, full-stride, nearly level walking through a valley with hallucinogenic<br \/>\n formations, two river crossings, which were good fun as we all held hands<br \/>\n and waded through the knee-deep water, and finally, the lake, Tso Moriri-amazing<br \/>\n to come upon such a huge lake in these high mountains-truly awesome. Surrounded<br \/>\n by &#8220;soft&#8221; cream-coloured hills-a dramatic contrast to the rugged,<br \/>\n jagged mountain scenery we had been walking through-and meadows where<br \/>\n Changpas (nomadic shepherds) graze their flocks of pashmina goats and<br \/>\n yaks, Tso Moriri is a vast expanse of azure water, a blue that is other-worldly,<br \/>\n truly electrifying. <\/p>\n<p> The colour of the lake changes throughout the day depending on the light.<br \/>\n And at times parts of it seem to disappear as if &#8220;captured&#8221;<br \/>\n by the reflections of the tan peaks behind it. On the 9-day trek we saw<br \/>\n herds of yak, marmots, kiang (wild horses), wild goats, bar-headed geese-mothers<br \/>\n and fathers bobbing on the lake with their goslings-lammergeiers (gigantic<br \/>\n vultures), and the nomads living in their yak hair tents. And the wildflowers!<br \/>\n The Swiss were amazed to see edelweiss growing in such profusion. After<br \/>\n a rest day at the lake and a climb up on the ridges behind it for great<br \/>\n views, we walked up the lakeshore to the village of Karzok, one of those<br \/>\n frontier villages that looks as if it&#039;s at the end of the world. And<br \/>\n then the drive to Leh, capital of Ladakh, India&#039;s &#8220;little Tibet,&#8221;<br \/>\n with its fascinating bazaars and palace, a mini-Potala, and the world&#039;s<br \/>\n highest polo field. <\/p>\n<p> Flying back to Delhi, where the trip began, the Himalayan ranges spread<br \/>\n out below us. We toured Old and New Delhi, appreciated the architecture<br \/>\n and urban design of the British Raj, visited colorful temples, markets,<br \/>\n beautiful parks and the Qutab Minar, Asia&#039;s tallest ancient minaret.<br \/>\n We rode through Old Delhi in bicycle rickshaws and wandered the narrow,<br \/>\n winding lanes of its colorful bazaars. <i>Martin and Carol Noval have<br \/>\n been living in India for more than twenty years and organize and lead<br \/>\n several special cultural tours and treks a year for small groups. They&#039;ll<br \/>\n be doing this trek again next summer; it&#039;s one of their favourites.<br \/>\n If you would like to get in touch, email them at<\/i> <a href=\"mailto:&#116;&#114;&#105;&#112;&#115;&#105;&#110;&#116;&#111;&#105;&#110;&#100;&#105;&#097;&#064;&#117;&#115;&#097;&#046;&#110;&#101;&#116;\">&#116;&#114;&#105;&#112;&#115;&#105;&#110;&#116;&#111;&#105;&#110;&#100;&#105;&#097;&#064;&#117;&#115;&#097;&#046;&#110;&#101;&#116;<\/a><br \/>\n <i>and check their website<\/i> (<a href=\"http:\/\/www.tripsintoindia.com\/\">www.tripsintoindia.com<\/a>). <\/p>\n<hr \/>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Last July&#039;s trek over the 5600-meter (18,300 foot) high Parang La pass from Spiti, a remote high-altitude Tibetan Buddhist region in the north Indian State of Himachal Pradesh, to the&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"css_class_manager_body_classes":"","css_class_manager_use_in_post_loop":false},"categories":[2,3],"tags":[33],"class_list":["post-865","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-archive","category-main-article","tag-january-2003"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.6 - 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