{"id":638,"date":"2002-09-27T22:00:00","date_gmt":"2002-09-27T22:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/2002\/09\/27\/cyprus-an-island-divided-by-andy-brouwer\/"},"modified":"2026-03-26T07:01:02","modified_gmt":"2026-03-26T07:01:02","slug":"cyprus-an-island-divided-by-andy-brouwer","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/cyprus-an-island-divided-by-andy-brouwer.html","title":{"rendered":"Cyprus &#8211; An Island Divided by Andy Brouwer"},"content":{"rendered":"<p> The majority of tourists visiting Cyprus are blissfully unaware of the<br \/>\n pain and division that has haunted the island since 1974. To most, the<br \/>\n image and experience of Cyprus is one of sun and sand, the snow-capped<br \/>\n Troodos Mountains and exquisite frescoes housed in Byzantine monasteries.<br \/>\n For the island&#039;s inhabitants its a different story altogether. After<br \/>\n gaining independence in 1960, peace between the Greek and Turkish communities<br \/>\n was already fragile with the Turkish minority, representing 20% of the<br \/>\n population, retreating into ghettos and enclaves after sporadic violence<br \/>\n and harassment. In their defence, the Turkish army launched an invasion<br \/>\n of northern Cyprus in July 1974 and occupied the northern third of the<br \/>\n island, leaving thousands dead or wounded and huge numbers of refugees<br \/>\n fleeing to their respective sides of the divide. That division of Cyprus<br \/>\n has remained to this day. <\/p>\n<p> Whilst the south has enjoyed international recognition and a booming<br \/>\n economy boosted by tourism, the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus has<br \/>\n found life a lot tougher and depends on its sponsor Turkey for its economic<br \/>\n survival. Separating the two factions and running almost the length of<br \/>\n the country and dividing the island&#039;s capital into two is the Green<br \/>\n Line, also known at the Attila Line &#8211; a buffer zone maintained and patrolled<br \/>\n by the blue-bereted peacekeepers of the United Nations. Talks of a reconciliation<br \/>\n between the two sides have stuttered and stalled on many occasions and<br \/>\n feelings still run high, fuelled by recent incidents like the deaths of<br \/>\n the three Deryneia Martyrs in 1996. <\/p>\n<p> This was the background to my visit to the island&#039;s capital city<br \/>\n Nicosia, or Lefkosia as it&#039;s called today. The holiday rep at my hotel<br \/>\n in Pafos had whetted my appetite when he told me that crossing the Green<br \/>\n Line wasn&#039;t a good idea, as I might not be allowed back. That statement<br \/>\n immediately sparked my thirst for adventure and my wife Sue and I set<br \/>\n off early one morning in our hire car to cover the 150 kilometers to see<br \/>\n for ourselves. Our first stop in the capital was the 11th floor of the<br \/>\n Woolworths department store on Lidras Street, where telescopes gave us<br \/>\n a bird&#039;s eye view across into the northern half of the city. At the<br \/>\n end of the street, an observation platform allowed us to peer into the<br \/>\n buffer zone to see a street with rubble-strewn buildings and rolls of<br \/>\n barbed wire, left as it was in July 1974. <\/p>\n<p> On foot, we followed the Green Line westwards, punctuated by a series<br \/>\n of UN bunkers, roadblocks, a wall of sandbags and oil drums and signs<br \/>\n forbidding photographs and stopped at the Holy Cross RC church, isolated<br \/>\n inside the buffer zone and guarded by a solitary UN soldier. Nearby is<br \/>\n the only spot on the island where you can legally cross into the north<br \/>\n on a day excursion, at the site of the old Ledra Palace hotel. As we approached,<br \/>\n Sue&#039;s nerves became a little more frayed when we encountered up to<br \/>\n fifty wailing Cypriot women, dressed in black mourning clothes and holding<br \/>\n pictures of loved ones still missing since the 1970s.The stern-faced Greek<br \/>\n Cypriot border guards made little effort to disguise their disgust at<br \/>\n our desire to cross as they slowly copied details of our passports onto<br \/>\n a list and pointed at a sign that instructed our return by 5.30pm. It<br \/>\n was a few minutes past eleven o&#039;clock. <\/p>\n<p> Leaving the checkpoint, Sue and I walked quietly along a connecting<br \/>\n road, the ruined Ledra Palace hotel on our left, now used as a billet<br \/>\n by the UN (who have 1,500 personnel on peace-keeping duty on the island),<br \/>\n and desolate waste ground to our right. Two female UN soldiers nodded<br \/>\n their hello as we completed the 300 metre walk and checked into the Turkish<br \/>\n police control building. A few minutes later and the form-filling formalities<br \/>\n completed, we were in northern Cypriot territory and Sue began breathing<br \/>\n normally again. No real hassle at all but a mixed feeling of excitement<br \/>\n and unease nonetheless, heightened by the soulful wailing of the widowed<br \/>\n Cypriot women we&#039;d left at the border post as we crossed no-mans land.\n <\/p>\n<p> For the next four hours we walked around the old city, along narrow<br \/>\n passageways and empty streets, enjoying the friendliness of the people,<br \/>\n soaking up the atmosphere and visiting a few notable attractions including<br \/>\n the soaring minarets of north Nicosia&#039;s most prominent landmark, the<br \/>\n Cami Selimiye Mosque. Its a working church with a strong French Gothic<br \/>\n style but it was empty as I stepped inside and removed my shoes for my<br \/>\n first look inside a mosque. Next door is the sixth century Byzantine church<br \/>\n ruin known as the Bedesten and nearby is another ornate Gothic church,<br \/>\n the Cami Haydarpasa. Undergoing restoration work is the Buyuk Han, a rare<br \/>\n example of a Middle Age inn, known as a caravanserai. Although closed,<br \/>\n the foreman invited us in to look around before we finished off our tour<br \/>\n with a ten minute walk to the Turkish (Mevlevi Tekke) Museum, the former<br \/>\n home of the mystical Islamic sect known as the Whirling Dervishes. They<br \/>\n are famed for their spinning, trance-like dance that flourished for 700<br \/>\n years until they were banned in 1930. <\/p>\n<p> Returning to the old city, we stopped at a sidewalk cafe in the pedestrian<br \/>\n zone and listened to a rock band playing an open-air concert. One unusual<br \/>\n aspect which gave Sue a few jitters north of the divide was the distinct<br \/>\n lack of female shoppers. Instead, large groups of young Turkish men were<br \/>\n much in evidence, either standing on street corners or wandering aimlessly<br \/>\n and appeared to be army conscripts in civilian clothes. With an hour to<br \/>\n go before the border closed, Sue and I made our way back towards the crossing<br \/>\n point via the quiet back streets where buildings have been left unoccupied,<br \/>\n others are bullet-scarred and in ruins including a church and the Roccas<br \/>\n Bastion, where Turkish Cypriots can look through a barbwire-topped fence<br \/>\n into the southern half of the city and what for them is forbidden territory.\n <\/p>\n<p> The smiling faces of the Turkish police were in stark contrast to the<br \/>\n dour look on the faces of the Greek border guards as we returned to the<br \/>\n southern half of Nicosia via the long and eerie walk past a lone UN soldier<br \/>\n on sentinel duty midway between the two factions. The wailing widows were<br \/>\n still massed just past the guardroom and we were handed a flyer asking<br \/>\n if we knew of the whereabouts of Pavlos Solomi and Solon Pavlos Solomi,<br \/>\n missing since the morning of 15 August 1974 and the beloved husband and<br \/>\n 17 year old son of the old woman who&#039;d handed us the poster. Her name<br \/>\n was Panayiota Pavlos and she told us that 1,588 people are still missing<br \/>\n from that time, their fate unknown and the encounter was a poignant reminder<br \/>\n of the human face of the division that still separates Cyprus today. <\/p>\n<p> For more information on Andy&rsquo;s travels, visit his website which<br \/>\n has lots of travelogue stories with pictures. Andy Brouwer&#039;s<br \/>\n website <\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p> <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" border=\"0\" width=\"18\" height=\"14\" src=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/wp-content\/themes\/twentytenmod\/images\/up.gif\" alt=\" \"> Amina Lawal to be stoned in<br \/>\n Nigeria in the 21<sup>st<\/sup> Century As you may recently<br \/>\n have read in the papers, a court in Northern Nigeria has confirmed that<br \/>\n 30 year old Amina Lawal will be executed by stoning due to giving birth<br \/>\n to a child after her divorce. &#8220;The crime&rdquo;, proved by Ms Lawal<br \/>\n becoming pregnant was made at a time when the Law of Sharia was not yet<br \/>\n legal in the area. Funnily enough, the father of the &ldquo;crime&rdquo;<br \/>\n could not be prosecuted because of the requirement of 4 witnesses to the<br \/>\n event, who, strangely have not come forward. The stoning will take place<br \/>\n when Ms Lawal has finished breast feeding her 8 months old daughter. What&rsquo;s<br \/>\n more, Miss Universe are still considering scheduling their event in Nigeria,<br \/>\n despite this sentence<b>.<\/b> <\/p>\n<p> At Amnesty International (AI) England&#039;s home page you can sign an<br \/>\n open letter to Nigeria&rsquo;s President to protest against this cruel<br \/>\n sentence. AI say that more than 18.500 people have already done so. To<br \/>\n sign the letter, visit: Amina Open Letter\n <\/p>\n<hr \/>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The majority of tourists visiting Cyprus are blissfully unaware of the pain and division that has haunted the island since 1974. To most, the image and experience of Cyprus is&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","css_class_manager_body_classes":"","css_class_manager_use_in_post_loop":false},"categories":[2,3],"tags":[68],"class_list":["post-638","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-archive","category-main-article","tag-september-2002"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Cyprus - An Island Divided by Andy Brouwer - eNewsletter<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/cyprus-an-island-divided-by-andy-brouwer.html\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Cyprus - An Island Divided by Andy Brouwer - eNewsletter\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"The majority of tourists visiting Cyprus are blissfully unaware of the pain and division that has haunted the island since 1974. 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