{"id":2180,"date":"2006-02-28T10:59:54","date_gmt":"2006-02-28T10:59:54","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/2006\/02\/28\/padmassana-visits-lebanon\/"},"modified":"2018-01-02T16:43:24","modified_gmt":"2018-01-02T16:43:24","slug":"padmassana-visits-lebanon","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/padmassana-visits-lebanon.html","title":{"rendered":"Padmassana Visits Lebanon"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>\n              On Christmas Eve I flew from London to Beirut on BA and landed<br \/>\n              during a spectacular thunderstorm. I managed to get in for free<br \/>\n              after buying a visa at the airport bank for $18, the immigration<br \/>\n              man said it&#039;s free today, go, and get your money back, so we<br \/>\n              did! By total coincidence, the next morning the first person I<br \/>\n              saw at breakfast was Katerina, a fellow Globetrotter from London!\n            <\/p>\n<p>\n              <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/2006\/2006-02-enews-image004.jpg\" alt=\"Sidon castle\" class=\"pic\" hspace=\"12\" align=\"left\" \/>I was part of an organised tour of the Lebanon and<br \/>\n              there were 10 of us. We left Beirut on Xmas day and headed south<br \/>\n              via the Corniche to the port city of Sidon. On the way we passed<br \/>\n              near to the sports complex behind which there are massive Shatila<br \/>\n              and Shabra Palestinian refugee camps, where the massacres in the<br \/>\n              1980&#039;s happened. In Sidon we visited the Caravanserai where<br \/>\n              there is a collection of photographs showing the hours leading up<br \/>\n              to and the assassination of president Hariri in February 2005;<br \/>\n              the devastation from the 350kg car bomb has to be seen to be<br \/>\n              believed.\n            <\/p>\n<p>\n              Also in Sidon we saw the Crusader castle which is reached by a<br \/>\n              stone bridge across the sea. The castle is well preserved and<br \/>\n              there are lots of towers and ramparts to explore, though at lower<br \/>\n              levels of the castle we had to avoid the massive waves that were<br \/>\n              breaking over the castle. In Sidon we also visited, the market<br \/>\n              and the soap museum, which is quite interesting.\n            <\/p>\n<p>\n              Our next stop was the drive up into the Chouf mountains to Deir<br \/>\n              el Qamar to our Auberge, a lovely place to stay run by an<br \/>\n              eccentric old French lady who had a roaring log fire, just as<br \/>\n              well as it was very cold. Our Christmas dinner was a meze: loads<br \/>\n              of meat and bread, etc, very nice, and no sheep&#039;s eye balls<br \/>\n              to be seen. (My mother had predicted a Christmas dinner of<br \/>\n              sheep&#039;s eye balls)! <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/2006\/2006-02-enews-image005.jpg\" alt=\"chouf mountains\" class=\"pic\" hspace=\"12\" align=\"right\" \/>\n            <\/p>\n<p>\n              We had planned to go walking in the Cedar forest, but the rain in<br \/>\n              Beirut had been 3ft of snow in the mountains so that was<br \/>\n              abandoned. The snowy trip over the mountains into the Bekaa<br \/>\n              valley was precarious and our driver had to be careful not to hit<br \/>\n              parked vehicles that you couldn&#039;t see as they were buried in<br \/>\n              snow. On the other side of the mountains we visited the Ummayad<br \/>\n              ruins at Anjar which borders Syria, but again it was raining, so<br \/>\n              we saw the main buildings and temples, but it was too cold too<br \/>\n              really take our time, so after a chicken shawarma and chips it<br \/>\n              was up into &#8220;Hezbollahville&#8221;, aka Baalbeck, famous for<br \/>\n              its fantastic ruins.\n            <\/p>\n<p>\n              Our hotel was right opposite the ruins, and pretty spectacular<br \/>\n              they are too. We had a local guide to take us round, as Baalbeck<br \/>\n              is quite a big place, and also home to Hezbolah. There were<br \/>\n              yellow signs showing a fist with a Kalashnikov all over the place<br \/>\n              and local people try to sell you Hezbolah flags and t-shirts and<br \/>\n              there are people collecting for the cause. I had a wander around<br \/>\n              Baalbeck in the evening, a nice place and despite those that run<br \/>\n              it, it was not in the least threatening, bought some sweets off<br \/>\n              an ex-Australian Lebanese who called me &#8220;mate&#8221;!<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/2006\/2006-02-enews-image006.jpg\" alt=\"Baalbeck\" class=\"pic\" hspace=\"12\" align=\"left\" \/>\n            <\/p>\n<p>\n              We were supposed to go straight to the Qadisha valley from<br \/>\n              Baalbeck, but because of the holiday weekend we had not visited<br \/>\n              Beit Eddin, due to it being Christmas day on the Sunday and the<br \/>\n              day off for public building employees on the Monday. Beit Eddin<br \/>\n              is a fantastic palace, very much in the style of the Alhambra in<br \/>\n              Granada, lovely architecture, beautiful fountains and gardens. We<br \/>\n              had to make quite a detour to this, but it was well worth it, we<br \/>\n              then skirted back around Beirut and then up to Byblos on the<br \/>\n              coast.\n            <\/p>\n<p>\n              Byblos or Jbail to give it its proper name has some nice Roman<br \/>\n              ruins and a castle. It was also where our guide Nasim lives so as<br \/>\n              there were only 10 of us we went round his house for tea and<br \/>\n              cakes with his sister and Father, which was nice. During that<br \/>\n              night the PFLP (Peoples Front for the Liberation of Palestine)<br \/>\n              lobbed a couple of Katusha rockets over the border into Israel, a<br \/>\n              while later 30 miles south of us the Israeli air force bombed a<br \/>\n              Palestinian camp in South Beirut, we heard &#8220;something&#8221;<br \/>\n              in the night but didn&#039;t find out what had happened until the<br \/>\n              next morning.\n            <\/p>\n<p>\n              Went next to Tripoli, a lovely old city by the sea, fantastic<br \/>\n              castle to clamber over, ramparts giving great views with sheer<br \/>\n              drops off the side, in Europe there <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/2006\/2006-02-enews-image007.jpg\" alt=\"Tripoli market\" class=\"pic\" hspace=\"12\" align=\"right\" \/>would be &#8220;Don&#039;t climb the<br \/>\n              ramparts&#8221; signs and a huge big fence to stop you, not in<br \/>\n              Lebanon, go where you like and we did.\n            <\/p>\n<p>\n              Then went down into the market great fun eating hot bread<br \/>\n              straight from the bakers. We got into the big mosque too. I love<br \/>\n              the architecture of these places, the girls with us were given<br \/>\n              all covering pink robes, looked like a day out for the KKK or a<br \/>\n              bunch of druids at the Solstice. Then we drove into the mountains<br \/>\n              to Bcharre, home to the writer\/painter Gibran. His stuff is not<br \/>\n              my kind of thing and there&#039;s no chance of it ever touring<br \/>\n              Saudi Arabia or Iran as nobody in his pictures has a stitch on<br \/>\n              and as for what they are getting up to&#8230;..After a quick look<br \/>\n              round we came out and built a snowman and had a snowball fight!\n            <\/p>\n<p>\n              <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/2006\/2006-02-enews-image008.jpg\" alt=\"Byblos\" class=\"pic\" hspace=\"12\" align=\"left\" \/>We spent the night in an Hermitage called St<br \/>\n              Elysee, whose back wall is actually the rock of the mountain<br \/>\n              behind. To get to the place we had to go down a steep mountain<br \/>\n              road that was a sheet of ice &#8211; which was exhilarating, but the<br \/>\n              next day we had to come out by the same way and ended up using<br \/>\n              snow chains and taking runs at bends to get round them. We were<br \/>\n              also supposed to do a walk here, but were forewarned about the 12<br \/>\n              inches of mud and 2 ft of snow by another group that had tried<br \/>\n              the walk and had to give up. Instead we went to Byblos for lunch<br \/>\n              and then down to Jeita Grotto, a fantastic series of caves which<br \/>\n              were brilliant. After the caves we went to Jounie and got the<br \/>\n              cable car and funicular up to the top of the hill behind the<br \/>\n              town, which has a giant statue of the Virgin Mary, but we just<br \/>\n              made it for sunset.\n            <\/p>\n<p>\n              <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/2006\/2006-02-enews-image009.jpg\" alt=\"Beiruit Corniche\" class=\"pic\" hspace=\"12\" align=\"right\" \/>We finished up in Beirut and first visited the<br \/>\n              famous Corniche that runs by the sea, the place to be seen in the<br \/>\n              1970&#039;s but now a bit tatty. Then down to Martyrs square which<br \/>\n              is the start of the &#8220;Green Line&#8221; that divided east and<br \/>\n              west Beirut during the war. The buildings directly on the line<br \/>\n              have been rebuilt or restored, but you only have to go a street<br \/>\n              or so east or west to find the evidence of 15 years of war.\n            <\/p>\n<p>\n              Beirut is on an extremely high state of alert. There are tanks<br \/>\n              and armed police and army all over the place &#8211; they are expecting<br \/>\n              something to happen. The bars and clubs in the city that last<br \/>\n              year were packed have been cancelling New Years eve parties as<br \/>\n              nobody is buying tickets. The city dwellers do not want to be in<br \/>\n              a place with a large crowd that would be a target for the next<br \/>\n              bomb. But having said that Beirut is a nice place, the people are<br \/>\n              extremely welcoming, there are lovely shops and cafes and I&#039;m<br \/>\n              really glad to have visited.\n            <\/p>\n<hr \/>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>On Christmas Eve I flew from London to Beirut on BA and landed during a spectacular thunderstorm. I managed to get in for free after buying a visa at the&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"css_class_manager_body_classes":"","css_class_manager_use_in_post_loop":false},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2180","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-main-article"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Padmassana Visits Lebanon - eNewsletter<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/padmassana-visits-lebanon.html\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Padmassana Visits Lebanon - eNewsletter\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"On Christmas Eve I flew from London to Beirut on BA and landed during a spectacular thunderstorm. 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