{"id":2097,"date":"2005-10-27T22:00:00","date_gmt":"2005-10-27T22:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/2005\/10\/27\/the-beetle-goes-diving-aroundsipadan\/"},"modified":"2023-12-10T11:36:38","modified_gmt":"2023-12-10T11:36:38","slug":"the-beetle-goes-diving-aroundsipadan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/the-beetle-goes-diving-aroundsipadan.html","title":{"rendered":"The Beetle goes diving around\nSipadan"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/2005-10-enews-Clip-6.jpg\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" alt=\"\" class=\"pic\" align=\"left\" \/>There&rsquo;s a well trodden<br \/>\n&ldquo;tourist&rdquo; route in Sabah, Borneo. Most people<br \/>\narrive in KK (Kota Kinabalu), from mainland Malaysia or Brunei. The<br \/>\nusual route is to make the 1 night 2 day climb of Mt Kinabalu, scoff at<br \/>\nseeing the &lsquo;circus&rsquo; of orang-utans at Sepilok, (but<br \/>\nstill go,) do a jungle trek (complete with leeches when it rains) at<br \/>\nKinabatangan, and end up diving around Sipadan. The Beetle however,<br \/>\nobviously a wuss, headed direct from KK for the delightful town of<br \/>\nSemporna to go diving around Sipadan. <\/p>\n<p> I am told that Semporna translates from Malay to mean<br \/>\n&lsquo;beautiful&rsquo;. Beautiful it ain&rsquo;t.<br \/>\nIt&rsquo;s a small place clustered around the sea front, spilling<br \/>\nup a small hill where a motley collection of shops, two budget hotels,<br \/>\nan internet caf&eacute;, one KFC, a Courts Mammoth, Maybank, a<br \/>\nsupermarket and the mini van terminus can be found. Down the slope by<br \/>\nthe sea there are fish markets (upsettingly selling manta rays, blue<br \/>\nspotted rays and sharks amongst the usual tuna etc.,) lots of small<br \/>\nrickety wooden stalls with people selling water melons, small plastic<br \/>\nbags of tomatoes, durian, bananas, rambutans, small piles of chillies,<br \/>\nginger and the like. The road from the top of the town leads via a<br \/>\nsmall roundabout with a rusting sculpture of a marlin in a circle down<br \/>\na small incline to the central market and wharf. The road is broken up,<br \/>\nbadly pot holed and largely comprises rough gravel. Partially open<br \/>\nculverts run by the side of the roads. <\/p>\n<p> <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/2005-10-enews-Clip-7.jpg\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" alt=\"\" class=\"pic\" align=\"left\" \/>The place stinks and you have to pick your way around<br \/>\ngaping holes in the pavement and road, steel girders stretched across<br \/>\nthe pavement and road, debris from semi abandoned buildings and<br \/>\nrubbish: decomposing food, dead animals and plastic bags abound.<br \/>\nSeveral divers came a cropper on any one\/combination of the above and<br \/>\nhurt themselves &ndash; and this on land and not in the sea. <\/p>\n<p> Opposite the wharf, there&rsquo;s the Dragon Inn<br \/>\nbudget hotel, a collection of long houses on stilts in the sea. To the<br \/>\nright of that is the somewhat posher Seafest Hotel and cafe. In between<br \/>\nthere&rsquo;s a small collection of dive operations. <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/2005-10-enews-Clip-8.jpg\" width=\"320\" height=\"227\" alt=\"\" class=\"pic\" align=\"left\" \/><\/p>\n<p>I arrived during Ramadan, a time when there are a lot<br \/>\nof dusty fruit and veg stalls during the day but the supermarket is<br \/>\nclosed until 7pm. The KFC was not doing a great deal of business during<br \/>\nthe day either, though there is a large Chinese population in Semporna<br \/>\nand they were not fasting and could be found sitting in the kedai kopi<br \/>\n&ndash; coffee shops. After 6.30pm, the local Malays broke their<br \/>\nfast and sat in open air restaurants watching violent movies whilst<br \/>\nferal cats fought beside for scraps of food. The owner of the place I<br \/>\nstayed at, Lees Rest House gave me his views on Semporna, but not first<br \/>\nwithout complaining how hard it was to do business as a Chinese person<br \/>\nin Malay society. I was told that there were many illegal Filipino<br \/>\npeople, as Mindanao, in the south of the Philippines is close by. <\/p>\n<p> You may wonder, from my description of Semporna, why I<br \/>\nstayed there. Simple: because this is the best place to stay to go<br \/>\ndiving around Sipadan. The alternatives are to go and stay in one of<br \/>\ntwo very swish resorts on Mabul &ndash; too expensive for me<br \/>\n&ndash; one quoted me &#163;1,100 for 7 days&rsquo; diving<br \/>\nand accommodation, and the other is even more expensive. Another option<br \/>\nis to stay in a long house on Mabul, which I did think about as it<br \/>\nwould mean that I could sleep in a little until the dive boat arrived<br \/>\nfrom Semporna, but, being a Beetle, I decided to stay in my small but<br \/>\nclean and air con&rsquo;d room at Lees Guest House for 40 Ringits a<br \/>\nnight &ndash; about &#163;6 and that I could run the twice<br \/>\ndaily gamut of hisses and whistles from the local men whilst walking<br \/>\ndown to the dive shop and back. They&rsquo;ve obviously not seen a<br \/>\nBeetle before. <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/2005-10-enews-Clip-9.jpg\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" alt=\"\" class=\"pic\" align=\"left\" \/><\/p>\n<p>A small oasis in the town called Semporna is a dive<br \/>\nshop called <a href=\"https:\/\/www.scuba-junkie.com\/\">Scuba<br \/>\nJunkies,<\/a> complete with fury creature Ewok, a white gangling<br \/>\nball of walking fluffiness. I did 21 dives with Scuba Junkies over<br \/>\nseven days and can recommend them whole heartedly; they were<br \/>\nprofessional, safe and fun to be with. The diving around Sipadan more<br \/>\nthan made up for staying in Semporna, which faded into insignificance<br \/>\ncompared to the sharks, turtles and reef fish I saw. <\/p>\n<p> Sipadan diving really is world class diving. One dive<br \/>\nsite called Barracuda Point has so many resting sharks on sandy slopes<br \/>\nand turtles that it is easy to become blas&eacute; about them. We<br \/>\nalso saw small schools of barracuda too, and I saw two leopard sharks,<br \/>\nmy first sighting ever. March\/April time there are sometimes schools of<br \/>\nhammerheads sharks. At times there are so many turtles that you have to<br \/>\nget out of their way as they ease of their ledges or move from sandy<br \/>\npatches. This is not necessarily deep diving, you can see all you hope<br \/>\nto at less than 25 metres; yes, sometimes, there were strong-ish<br \/>\ncurrents but nothing too difficult and on top of the reef at between 9<br \/>\nand 5 metres there was always a myriad of hundreds of reef fish. <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/2005-10-enews-Clip-10.jpg\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" alt=\"\" class=\"pic\" align=\"left\" \/><\/p>\n<p>There&rsquo;s macro diving too, if that is your<br \/>\nthing. I felt so in awe of the &lsquo;big stuff&rsquo; around<br \/>\nSipadan that I did not want to miss out on that so only made three<br \/>\nmacro dives around Mabul. On one dive, around the pillars supporting an<br \/>\nold oil exploration rig that is now the Sea Ventures floating hotel, at<br \/>\naround 12 metres underneath a pile of iron girders is the most enormous<br \/>\nmoray eel I have ever seen. He is called Elvis, though I<br \/>\ndon&rsquo;t know why. On the macro dives, we saw frog fish,<br \/>\nscorpion leaf fish, juvenile sweetlips and there are sea horses, though<br \/>\nI did not see one. <\/p>\n<p> All of the photos in this article were kindly given to<br \/>\nthe Beetle by Tino, dive instructor, and one of the owners of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.scuba-junkie.com\/\">Scuba Junkies<\/a>.\n <\/p>\n<hr \/>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>There&rsquo;s a well trodden &ldquo;tourist&rdquo; route in Sabah, Borneo. Most people arrive in KK (Kota Kinabalu), from mainland Malaysia or Brunei. The usual route is to make the 1 night&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","css_class_manager_body_classes":"","css_class_manager_use_in_post_loop":false},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2097","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-main-article"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>The Beetle goes diving around Sipadan - eNewsletter<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/the-beetle-goes-diving-aroundsipadan.html\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The Beetle goes diving around Sipadan - eNewsletter\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"There&rsquo;s a well trodden &ldquo;tourist&rdquo; route in Sabah, Borneo. Most people arrive in KK (Kota Kinabalu), from mainland Malaysia or Brunei. 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