![\"](\"\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/2005\/2005-11-enews-image015.jpg\")
Trip\n duration: 56 days
\n
\n Trip miles to date: 5,632
\n
\n Miles since last update: 472\n <\/p>\n
\n Trip
\n duration: 56 days
\n
\n Trip miles to date: 5,632
\n
\n Miles since last update: 472\n <\/p>\n
\n Having completed over 5,600 miles in the previous 5 weeks, these
\n past two weeks have been frustratingly static as I've waited
\n for the Beemer to complete its rest and recuperation courtesy of
\n the BMW dealership in Santiago. Having sampled a lot of wine,
\n I've visited probably every museum in Santiago and spent a
\n long lazy weekend in Valparaìso I'm definitely ready to get
\n moving again.\n <\/p>\n
\n ![\"Paine](\"\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/2005\/2005-11-enews-image016.jpg\")
I'm also sad to
\n report that shortly after I left the Torres del Paine national
\n park an intense forest fire broke out which has now been burning
\n for 3 weeks. Over 14,000 acres have been destroyed and wildlife
\n has fled from the area and the entire park closed in what was
\n peak season.\n <\/p>\n
\n The fire was started by a Czech tourist who knocked over his
\n stove whilst illegally camping outside the official boundaries,
\n trails and designated camping areas – after a fine of US$200 he
\n was allowed to leave the country. Significant attempts to teach
\n visitors the perils of fire were plastered all around the park
\n when I was there and the stupidity of the Czech made national
\n news.\n <\/p>\n
\n Ruta 5 up from Temuco was a 2 lane, blissfully smooth, tarmac
\n road all the way to Santiago. In fact Ruta 5 is the major artery
\n that runs the length of Chile from the tip of Chiloe in the south
\n to Arica, on the border with Peru in the north – a distance of
\n some 1,600 miles and is probably better known as the Panamerica
\n highway.\n <\/p>\n
\n Although this is not highway in the English sense of the word.
\n Even for the stretch leading to Santiago, you should think less
\n M25 and more like a medium size A-road. The speed limit is 120
\n kph (75mph) although most vehicles seem to interpret this as
\n “as-fast-as-this-vehicle-will-allow” and speed
\n differentials vary greatly.\n <\/p>\n
\n Another notable feature is the volume and bravery of pedestrians.
\n The entire length seems to harbour life like a coral reef as
\n towns and villages straddle the road. Locals seem to appear from
\n all directions and fearlessly cross the road in the face of
\n onrushing traffic. Strangely I saw a woman, carrying 2 small
\n children, struggle over the raised central reservation (rather
\n than use the raised pedestrian walkway installed not more than 50
\n metres away).\n <\/p>\n
\n My initial view of Santiago was breathtaking and surprising.
\n Having spent many weeks in the wilderness of Tierra del Fuego and
\n Pategonia the mere sight of a huge, sprawling city containing
\n millions of citizens was surprising. My initial impressions of
\n Santiago were of a warm, friendly and generally happy capital. In
\n fact I felt more comfortable than Buenos Aires – I'm not sure
\n if this is a reflection of the comparable characteristics of the
\n 2 cities, or the fact that I'm more conditioned to South
\n America after nearly 2 months.\n <\/p>\n
\n One first task was to collect a package sent from Touratech –
\n being a replacement lid to the pannier box and various other
\n parts. Rather than deliver them to the hotel, DHL left me a note
\n requesting I pick up the package from the airport (thanks!) as
\n the goods exceeded the US$500 limit on imported packages. After I
\n pointed out that the only reason it exceeded US$500 was because
\n they had forgotten to omit the US$400 freight costs they conceded
\n I could collect the package after I paid a further US$200 import
\n taxes.\n <\/p>\n
\n I struggled to keep my temper after I pointed out that US$200
\n taxes on goods worth no more than US$150 could not be right. It
\n frustratingly took me 4 hours to persuade DHL and custom officers
\n (including opening up the package) that taxes were not due and I
\n could leave the airport with the parts. As a piece of luggage,
\n the price is comparable to anything Louis Vitton ever put out but
\n it has bought me piece of mind and will make life easier.\n <\/p>\n
![\"The](\"\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/2005\/2005-11-enews-image017.jpg\")
\n <\/div>\n\n The ride up took me through the prime wine-growing real estate of
\n Chile. After depositing the Beemer with the (only) BMW garage in
\n Chile I rented a pick-up and headed back down the road to tour
\n the area and sample some of the produce. The quality of the wine
\n belies its price and the Carmenère grape (unique to Chile) has
\n become a favourite.\n <\/p>\n
\n After 3 of the 4 days had passed I quickly appreciated that they
\n would need at least another week (waiting for parts) so I hired a
\n car and drove to Valparaìso, the historic port town about 60
\n miles to the west.\n <\/p>\n
\n ![\"Valparaìso\"](\"\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/2005\/2005-11-enews-image018.jpg\")
<\/p>\n
Rather ungainfully tacked onto
\n the side of Valparaìso is Vinà del Mar. Whilst Valparaìso is a
\n busy commercial port full of historical buildings, busy market
\n places and rickety old carriages that ascend the surrounding
\n hills to the residential areas Vinà del Mar is full of bars,
\n restaurants, modern shopping malls and beach side holiday
\n apartments for wealthy Chileans.\n <\/p>\n
\n After 4 days of wandering around the raised walkways and
\n picturesque alleyways of Valparaìso and 1 day sitting on the
\n beach in Vinà del Mar I returned to Santiago to check on progress
\n of the Beemer. Good news and bad news awaited me.\n <\/p>\n
\n ![\"2](\"\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/2005\/2005-11-enews-image019.jpg\")
<\/p>\n
The bike was still 3 days away from being finished but they had
\n discovered a holed radiator (explaining an overheating issue on
\n the road into Santiago) and a burnt-out wiring loom where the
\n heated grips had shorted following the crash in Argentina. The
\n fork seals had arrived and were being fitted as I visited and as
\n I write this I expect to pick up the bike this afternoon – after
\n depositing an unfeasibly huge amount of money with the garage.\n <\/p>\n
\n These past 2 weeks have moved incredibly slowly, the bike (and I)
\n are back in good shape to tackle the demands of the Atacama
\n desert and onwards to Bolivia and the Salar de Uluni.\n <\/p>\n