{"id":1949,"date":"2005-03-27T22:00:00","date_gmt":"2005-03-27T22:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/2005\/03\/27\/the-spice-islands-by-jon-hornbuckle\/"},"modified":"2014-10-08T19:08:09","modified_gmt":"2014-10-08T19:08:09","slug":"the-spice-islands-by-jon-hornbuckle","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/the-spice-islands-by-jon-hornbuckle.html","title":{"rendered":"The Spice Islands by Jon Hornbuckle"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/marchapril-2005-mayors-house.jpg\" width=\"320\" height=\"225\" alt=\"mayor's house, bombed, Ambon city\" class=\"pic\" align=\"left\" \/><br \/>\n The killing is over on Ambon, the hub of the Moluccas, or Spice<br \/>\n Islands, in Indonesia. There is an invisible line drawn between the<br \/>\n Christian and Muslim sectors in the City &#8211; it is still dangerous to<br \/>\n stop on the wrong side. The burnt out churches, houses and even<br \/>\n university buildings are reminders of the carnage that occurred a<br \/>\n short while ago, when Ambon was likened to Beirut at its worst.<br \/>\n &#8220;So it was a religious war?&#8221; I enquire. &#8220;Not really,<br \/>\n more the result of political manoeuvrings. Now we have peace and<br \/>\n democracy, but no jobs, clean streets or reliable infrastructure,<br \/>\n the opposite of neighbouring Singapore.&#8221; Almost incredibly,<br \/>\n fair and trouble-free elections had just been completed, much to<br \/>\n the surprise of the incumbent president, who refused to accept<br \/>\n defeat. &#8220;I would rather be in the hands of the Chinese army<br \/>\n than the Indonesian&#8221;, a French photo-journalist told us later,<br \/>\n after describing how he had to injure himself to persuade the<br \/>\n Chinese soldiers to release him. &#8220;You won&#039;t be killed or<br \/>\n &#8220;disappear&#8221; in their custody.&#8221;\n <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/marchapril-2005-market-near-hila-ambon.jpg\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" alt=\"market-near-hila-ambon.jpg\" align=\"right\" class=\"pic\" \/><br \/>\n With two friends I drove across the spine of Ambon to Hila, an old<br \/>\n village overlooking the much larger island of Ceram, passing<br \/>\n countless cloves and nutmegs drying in the sun on the roadside. It<br \/>\n was hard to believe that centuries ago such spices were valued more<br \/>\n highly than gold, with the result that the islands were a<br \/>\n battle-ground for the colonial powers, ending when we swapped our<br \/>\n land there for New York, after smuggling out seedlings to establish<br \/>\n plantations in India! We hiked up a steep trail, through spice<br \/>\n plantations, to a ridge with a spectacular view over the partially<br \/>\n forested hillsides. Here we strove to observe two species of<br \/>\n parrots endemic to these islands, which we could hear but not see.<br \/>\n We returned early the following morning and were rewarded by the<br \/>\n sight of the electric Moluccan Red Lory and the &#8220;poorly<br \/>\n known&#8221;, to quote the bird book, but well-named Drab<br \/>\n Honeyeater. On the drive back to the airport, we stopped to chat<br \/>\n and photo the friendly locals, many of whom were Muslims.\n <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/marchapril-2005-nutmeg-growing-ambon.jpg\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" alt=\"nutmeg growing, Ambon\" class=\"pic\" align=\"right\" \/><br \/>\n The main reason for going to Ambon was to take a flight to the<br \/>\n rarely visited Tanimbar Islands, some two hours east of Ambon. The<br \/>\n only flights were with Merpati, whose slogan &#8220;Get the<br \/>\n feeling&#8221; aptly described schedules in these parts as feelings<br \/>\n were all you could rely on, with nobody outside their office in<br \/>\n Ambon knowing when such flights would occur. Fortunately, we were<br \/>\n able to fly to Saumlaki on Yamdena, the main island of the<br \/>\n Tanimbars, on the desired day, a most uncomfortable experience in<br \/>\n an ancient 22-seater. We then discovered that we could not fly to<br \/>\n the relatively close Kai Islands as we wanted, flights having been<br \/>\n suspended, and the flight we had &#8220;booked&#8221; back to Ambon<br \/>\n did not run that day. As the previous day was full, we got a<br \/>\n booking for the day after, but no tickets as the agent had gone to<br \/>\n the airport to investigate why the plane had returned. The answer<br \/>\n was that the pilot had felt ill and so decided to come back to<br \/>\n Saumlaki, apparently not trusting his co-pilot to take-over.\n <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/marchapril-2005-cloves-drying-on-road-ambon.jpg\" width=\"320\" height=\"227\" alt=\"cloves drying on road, Ambon\" class=\"pic\" align=\"left\" \/><br \/>\n The Tanimbars are at almost the south-eastern extremity of the 5000<br \/>\n km long Indonesian Archipelago, only 150 km from the coast of<br \/>\n Australia. Unlike most of the country, the population is<br \/>\n predominantly Christian. At the Harapan Indah, the only hotel in<br \/>\n town, we arranged to stay at the owners&#039; farm 21 km along the<br \/>\n island&#039;s only road, so that we had ready access to the native<br \/>\n forest. By the time we reached the farm, after supplies had been<br \/>\n purchased, including a crate of beer, it was raining &#8211; the first<br \/>\n time for 4 months so it was said. We had come here to try to see<br \/>\n the 20 or more special birds endemic to these parts, a surprisingly<br \/>\n high number for such a relatively small area. When the rain<br \/>\n stopped, we set forth, amongst much bird activity, but were<br \/>\n disappointed to find the extensive forest reported to be present by<br \/>\n the last person we knew to have visited, some 10 years ago, had<br \/>\n gone and only patches of logged forest remained. <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/marchapril-2005-ironing-banknotes-saumlaki-tanimbars.jpg\" width=\"320\" height=\"254\" alt=\"ironing banknotes, Saumlaki, Tanimbars\" class=\"pic\" align=\"right\" \/>However, over the<br \/>\n next 4 days we saw all the specialities, including 2 parrots, 2<br \/>\n thrushes and 5 flycatchers, apart from the Tanimbar Scrubfowl,<br \/>\n sadly scarce or elusive due to hunting, and the Pied Bronze Cuckoo.<br \/>\n Strangely, I had recorded the song of the cuckoo on the first<br \/>\n afternoon, but never heard it again. According to the book, it<br \/>\n parasitizes the endemic Rufous sided Gerygone, but the only bird to<br \/>\n react to the playback of its song, on several occasions, was the<br \/>\n Wallacean Whistler &#8211; indicating that this species is the main host<br \/>\n for the cuckoo&#039;s eggs.\n <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/marchapril-2005-girls-at-turgham-tanimbars.jpg\" width=\"227\" height=\"320\" alt=\"girls at Turgham, Tanimbars\" class=\"pic\" align=\"left\" \/><br \/>\n On the last afternoon, we visited the old village of Turgham. We<br \/>\n started at the mayor&#039;s house, where a meeting of the village<br \/>\n elders was in progress. After mutual greetings, we signed the<br \/>\n visitors book, noting that all previous visitors of the last 2-3<br \/>\n years looked to be either Indonesians or Australians, the latter<br \/>\n associated with the annual Darwin to Saumlaki boat race apparently.<br \/>\n At a wood-carver&#039;s house we bought a number of carvings from<br \/>\n the selection on offer by several local artists &#8211; good quality and<br \/>\n value. We were invited to drink a glass of Soli, local spirit<br \/>\n distilled from palm wine- highly alcoholic and surprisingly smooth.<br \/>\n Returning to the Harapan Indah in Saumlaki, we enjoyed the<br \/>\n air-conditioning, until ended by a power cut, and were amused to<br \/>\n observe the staff ironing banknotes flat, perhaps to facilitate<br \/>\n storage as even the smallest item can require a large number of<br \/>\n notes, the exchange rate being 16, 000 Rupiah to the pound. The<br \/>\n trappings of civilisation are a bit thin on the ground here: no<br \/>\n mobile phone cover, internet access or shopping malls. Predictably,<br \/>\n our flight was delayed by late arrival of the plane but this gave<br \/>\n us chance to study the profusion of Oriental Plovers and Little<br \/>\n Curlews on the runway &#8211; two species rarely encountered away from<br \/>\n their wintering grounds in northern Australia. It was a shame we<br \/>\n could not fly to Kai but we all agreed this last minute extension<br \/>\n to our eastern Indonesia trip had been a highly rewarding and<br \/>\n pleasant experience.\n <\/p>\n<hr \/>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The killing is over on Ambon, the hub of the Moluccas, or Spice Islands, in Indonesia. There is an invisible line drawn between the Christian and Muslim sectors in the&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","css_class_manager_body_classes":"","css_class_manager_use_in_post_loop":false},"categories":[2,3],"tags":[48],"class_list":["post-1949","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-archive","category-main-article","tag-march-2005"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>The Spice Islands by Jon Hornbuckle - eNewsletter<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/the-spice-islands-by-jon-hornbuckle.html\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The Spice Islands by Jon Hornbuckle - eNewsletter\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"The killing is over on Ambon, the hub of the Moluccas, or Spice Islands, in Indonesia. 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