{"id":1762,"date":"2005-08-27T22:00:00","date_gmt":"2005-08-27T22:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/2005\/08\/27\/destination-guide-trieste-by-karen-bryan\/"},"modified":"2020-10-10T16:21:50","modified_gmt":"2020-10-10T16:21:50","slug":"destination-guide-trieste-by-karen-bryan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/destination-guide-trieste-by-karen-bryan.html","title":{"rendered":"Destination Guide &#8211; Trieste by Karen Bryan"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>\n Trieste is an Adriatic coastal city in north eastern Italy, close<br \/>\n to the border with Slovenia. The sea in the Gulf of Trieste is<br \/>\n very clear and clean, with limestone cliffs and rocky beaches.<br \/>\n The centre of the city has a mid-European feel, more Austrian<br \/>\n than Italian, Trieste was the seaport of the Hapsburg<br \/>\n Empire.&#160; Here you can enjoy a combination of a sea\/beach<br \/>\n holiday and the attractions of a cultural city.\n <\/p>\n<p>\n It is an ideal destination for a short break but you could easily<br \/>\n spend a week here. The Verdi Theatre hosts an opera season in the<br \/>\n winter and an operetta festival in summer. You can swim in the<br \/>\n beautiful clear sea, stroll the promenade, and walk along the<br \/>\n cliff paths. Take in the wonderful art collection at the<br \/>\n Revoltella Museum. You can sip coffee on Piazza Unita Italia with<br \/>\n its grand 19th century buildings, which face onto the sea.\n <\/p>\n<p>\n <b>History:<\/b> according to folklore, Trieste was founded by<br \/>\n Tergeste, a friend of Jason and the Argonauts. Ancient Tergeste<br \/>\n as a Roman colony is dated to around 178 BC. It became more<br \/>\n important during the reign of Octavian when roads were<br \/>\n improved.&#160; The city has had many rulers during its history:<br \/>\n Goths, Byzantines, and Lombards. In the 13th century Trieste was<br \/>\n forced to swear allegiance to Venice. To escape Venetian<br \/>\n domination, Trieste sought the protection of Duke Leopold of<br \/>\n Austria. Trieste was of great importance to the Hapsburg Empire<br \/>\n as a seaport and was made a Freeport in 1719. Without customs<br \/>\n barriers the port and city flourished.&#160; At the end of the<br \/>\n First World War with collapse of the Hapsburg Empire, Trieste was<br \/>\n returned to Italy in 1918. Trieste was taken over by the Third<br \/>\n Riech when Italy withdrew from the Second World Ward in September<br \/>\n 1943. Two years later there was a 40-day Occupation by Tito&#039;s<br \/>\n Yugoslav forces. After 9 years under an Anglo-American government<br \/>\n Trieste was handed over to the Italian government.\n <\/p>\n<p>\n Trieste&#039;s history may help explain why 70% of Italians<br \/>\n apparently did not know that Trieste was part of Italy in a<br \/>\n recent opinion poll!&#160; With EU enlargement Trieste is ideally<br \/>\n placed as the only natural port in the centre of Europe. Trieste<br \/>\n is one of three finalists to host the international Expo of<br \/>\n Science, Technology and Culture in 2008. If its bid is successful<br \/>\n there will be more investment in the area and Trieste will become<br \/>\n better known on the world map.\n <\/p>\n<p>\n <b>Literary Connections:<\/b> the Irish author James Joyce lived<br \/>\n in Trieste during the early part of the 20th century. When he<br \/>\n first arrived he worked as a tutor at the Berlitz School of<br \/>\n English. He went on to write &#8220;The Dubliners&#8221;, &#8220;The<br \/>\n Portrait of an Artist as a Young Man&#8221; and start<br \/>\n &#8220;Ulysses&#8221; in Trieste. The rich mix of central European<br \/>\n and Eastern Mediterranean culture in Trieste is said to have had<br \/>\n a great influence on his writing.<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/2005\/200508-enews-image009.jpg\" alt=\"Statue of James Joyce\" class=\"pic\" hspace=\"12\" \/>\n <\/p>\n<p>\n Joyce (pictured left) was English tutor to Itali Svevo, the<br \/>\n Italian novelist. Svevo was born in Trieste in 1861, his Mother<br \/>\n was part of a Triestian Jewish family, and his Father was of<br \/>\n German descent. Joyce encouraged and praised Svevo&#039;s work and<br \/>\n Svevo wrote critiques of Joyce&#039;s work.\n <\/p>\n<p>\n Jan Morris wrote the book, &#8220;Trieste and the Meaning of<br \/>\n Nowhere&#8221;. Morris claims this is her final book, a<br \/>\n self-examination based in Trieste. Morris changed gender.&#160;<br \/>\n Jan Morris first visited Trieste at the end of the Second World<br \/>\n War as young Welsh soldier. She describes how the city<br \/>\n &#8220;curiously haunted her&#8221; . She revisited the city as an<br \/>\n elderly woman.\n <\/p>\n<p>\n Morris describes Trieste as &#8220;natural capital of the nation<br \/>\n of nowhere&#8221;. By this she means a home for the so-called<br \/>\n &#8220;Fourth World&#8221;. This is a scattered group with the<br \/>\n common values of humour and understanding, usually exiles in<br \/>\n their own communities but probably numerous enough to form their<br \/>\n own nation.\n <\/p>\n<p>\n I laughed at Clay Risen&#039;s comment in his piece about Trieste<br \/>\n in the Square Table in Spring 2003. He observed that<br \/>\n &#8220;Trieste is the only city in Europe which appears more often<br \/>\n in reflective essays than in guide books of newspaper travel<br \/>\n sections.&#8221;\n <\/p>\n<p>\n <b>Exploring the city<\/b>:&#160; the best way to explore the city<br \/>\n is to walk around. The Piazza dell&#039; Unita d&#039;Italia is the<br \/>\n heart of the city. The square was created towards the end of the<br \/>\n 19th century. It houses the City Hall, with its clock tower<br \/>\n featuring statues of Mikeze and Lakeze, figures from Trieste<br \/>\n folklore; Government House, with its gilded mosaic wall<br \/>\n decorations; and the former Head Office of Lloyd Triestino, built<br \/>\n in Renaissance style by an Austrian architect.\n <\/p>\n<p>\n The Victory Lighthouse lights the Gulf of Trieste and<br \/>\n commemorates the dead of the First World War. It stands almost 70<br \/>\n metres high with a scaled dome containing a statue of winged<br \/>\n Victory. At the base of the column is the anchor of the torpedo<br \/>\n boat Audace, the first Italian ship to enter the harbour in 1918.<br \/>\n The lighthouse took 4 years to complete and was officially opened<br \/>\n in 1927.\n <\/p>\n<p>\n The Old Stock Exchange (see picture right) is a fine example of<br \/>\n neo-classical architecture, resembling a Greek temple. The Old<br \/>\n Stock Exchange stands by the so called Grand Canal. However this<br \/>\n is rather a misnomer as the canal is very short.<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/2005\/200508-enews-image010.jpg\" alt=\"The Old Stock Exchange\" class=\"pic\" hspace=\"12\" \/>\n <\/p>\n<p>\n The Arco di Riccard is a Roman gate to the city thought to date<br \/>\n from 33 AD. It is in Piazzetta di Ricordo in the old city. You<br \/>\n can see the Roman amphitheatre at the foot of San Guisto<br \/>\n hill.&#160; The Verdi Opera Theatre opened in 1801. It is of a<br \/>\n similar style to La Scala in Milan.&#160; The Arco di Riccard is<br \/>\n a Roman gate to the city thought to date from 33 AD. It is in<br \/>\n Piazzetta di Ricordo in the old city. You can see the Roman<br \/>\n amphitheatre at the foot of San Guisto hill.&#160; The Verdi<br \/>\n Opera Theatre opened in 1801. It is of a similar style to La<br \/>\n Scala in Milan.\n <\/p>\n<p>\n <b>Day Trips:<\/b> there are many day trips that can be taken,<br \/>\n including exploring the <b>Carse<\/b>.&#160; The Triestine carse<br \/>\n starts at Montefalcone in the north and stretches down adjacent<br \/>\n to the Slovenian border. The area is known as a paradise for<br \/>\n botanists with a mixture of continental flora and Mediterranean<br \/>\n vegetation. &#160;There is talk of the area achieving national<br \/>\n park status.&#160; The Carsic house in Rupingrande has a<br \/>\n collection of traditional furniture and local costumes.&#160;<br \/>\n During the first week in May the works of local painters are<br \/>\n exhibited during the Majence Festival, in San Dorligo delle<br \/>\n Valle.&#160; The best known event is the Carsic Wedding, every<br \/>\n second year on the last Sunday of August in Monrupino. There are<br \/>\n dances every night of the preceding week. On the wedding day the<br \/>\n bridal procession, all dressed in traditional costume, walk to<br \/>\n the fortress church for the marriage ceremony.\n <\/p>\n<p>\n <b>Grado and Aquiliea<\/b> : Aquiliea was founded in the first<br \/>\n century BC. It occupies a strategic defence location. It became a<br \/>\n Patriarch&#039;s seat and many beautiful churches were built. The<br \/>\n Bascilica is considered to be one of the most important monuments<br \/>\n of early Christianity. There are two museums to visit there.\n <\/p>\n<p>\n Grado was the extreme southern part of the port of Aquileia (see<br \/>\n picture below left). Now it a beautiful island city joined to the<br \/>\n mainland by a causeway. It boasts 20 kms of fine sandy beaches.<br \/>\n Grado was very popular as a spa during the days of the Austrio<br \/>\n Hungarian Empire with its healing sands.<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/2005\/200508-enews-image011.jpg\" alt=\"Muggia is a pretty coastal town just south of Trieste\" class=\"pic\" hspace=\"12\" \/>Grado can be reached by the no 21<br \/>\n bus from Trieste. There is also a boat service during the Summer.\n <\/p>\n<p>\n Muggia: Muggia (see picture below right) &#160;is a pretty<br \/>\n coastal town just south of Trieste, which can be reached by ferry<br \/>\n from Trieste during the summer. The town is of Venetian origin,<br \/>\n surrounded by medieval walls with a 14th century castle and a<br \/>\n pretty port.\n <\/p>\n<p>\n <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/2005\/200508-enews-image012.jpg\" alt=\"The town is of Venetian origin, surrounded by medieval walls with a 14th century castle and a pretty port\" class=\"pic\" hspace=\"12\" \/>The Slovenian border is just a few<br \/>\n kilometres from Trieste. The Lipica Stud and<br \/>\n Riding School is under a half hour drive from Trieste. It was<br \/>\n originally founded in 1580 by Archduke Charles for breeding royal<br \/>\n horses for the Austrian court. Now you can tour the stud farm (6<br \/>\n Euros) or have a riding lesson, starting at 16 euros.\n <\/p>\n<p>\n <b>Croatia<\/b> can be easily reached through by passing through<br \/>\n the narrow strip of coastal Slovenia.&#160; <b>Venice<\/b> can be<br \/>\n reached by direct train from Trieste. The journey takes around<br \/>\n two hours. The train takes you right into the centre of Venice.\n <\/p>\n<p>\n <b>Getting there and around:<\/b> Ryanair flies into Trieste from<br \/>\n London Stansted. The airport is 35 kms west of Trieste but there<br \/>\n is regular public transport on Coach 51 into Trieste.&#160; If<br \/>\n you do decide to hire a car, it is worth checking that you can<br \/>\n take it into Slovenia and Croatia if you are considering day<br \/>\n trips there.&#160; Trieste has a good public transport<br \/>\n network.&#160; There is a &#8220;Trieste by Bus&#8221; city tour in<br \/>\n 13 stops. This is available on Saturdays and Sundays at 2pm from<br \/>\n the end of June to mid October. The two and a half hour trip<br \/>\n allows you to see the city&#039;s main attractions. The cost is<br \/>\n around five euros per person.&#160; You can take the Opicani tram<br \/>\n up to the Carso plateau, 348 metres above sea level. This<br \/>\n funicular tramway was built in 1902. The tram leaves from Piazza<br \/>\n Oberdan in the city centre up Scorolo hill to the plateau above.\n <\/p>\n<p>\n Karen Bryan is an independent travel consultant and writer,<br \/>\n specialising in less well known destinations in Europe. Her<br \/>\n websites are: <a href=\"https:\/\/web.archive.org\/web\/20161223151621\/http:\/\/www.europealacarte.co.uk:80\/\">www.europealacarte.co.uk<\/a>,<br \/>\n www.europe-culture-activity-tours.com&#160;\n <\/p>\n<hr \/>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Trieste is an Adriatic coastal city in north eastern Italy, close to the border with Slovenia. The sea in the Gulf of Trieste is very clear and clean, with limestone&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","css_class_manager_body_classes":"","css_class_manager_use_in_post_loop":false},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1762","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-main-article"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Destination Guide - Trieste by Karen Bryan - eNewsletter<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/destination-guide-trieste-by-karen-bryan.html\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Destination Guide - Trieste by Karen Bryan - eNewsletter\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Trieste is an Adriatic coastal city in north eastern Italy, close to the border with Slovenia. 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