{"id":1610,"date":"2004-05-27T22:00:00","date_gmt":"2004-05-27T22:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/2004\/05\/27\/sicily-palermo-part-1-by-david-cross\/"},"modified":"2014-12-10T20:18:25","modified_gmt":"2014-12-10T20:18:25","slug":"sicily-palermo-part-1-by-david-cross","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/sicily-palermo-part-1-by-david-cross.html","title":{"rendered":"Sicily:\n Palermo, Part 1 by David Cross"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>All long-distance buses seem to<br \/>\n have termini fairly near the Central Station [trains]. Outside this there is<br \/>\n a massive square where most local buses start and from the other side there<br \/>\n are roads into the centre, of which the Via Roma is the widest. The place<br \/>\n where I stayed is just to the left of the Via Roma [third turn] and is<br \/>\n visible from it. This is the Rosalia Conco d&#8217;Oro, completely<br \/>\n unprepossessing from outside but snug, clean, comfortable and friendly inside<br \/>\n and with a lift to the third floor reception and rooms. Toilets and showers<br \/>\n are shared but I never had to wait.<\/p>\n<p>However short your time here,<br \/>\n there is one thing which is simply NOT TO BE MISSED, the Duomo at Monreale.<br \/>\n This means one of the buses which does not start from the station and it is<br \/>\n necessary to get first to the Piazza del&#8217;Indepenza to catch it. [Bus<br \/>\n #309 from the station.] Words fail me at describing the appeal of this<br \/>\n cathedral and I am happy to quote from the Rough Guide &#8216;the most<br \/>\n extraordinary and extensive area of Christian medieval mosaicwork in the<br \/>\n world, the apex of Sicilian-Norman art.&#8217; I certainly cannot envisage<br \/>\n anything better. To me this is one of the sights of Europe. Although totally<br \/>\n different in style, I should place it in the same quality box as the<br \/>\n Alhambra.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/enews_052004_caclm.jpg\" alt=\"The Cathedral Cloisters at Monreale\" border=\"0\" align=\"left\" class=\"pic\">This Duomo must have been quite<br \/>\n remarkable in the twelfth century for the dazzling speed of its construction.<br \/>\n It is believed that it was done and dusted within twelve years. The reason<br \/>\n for this would appear to have been political rivalry between the king and an<br \/>\n archbishop but it does leave us now with a whole building of a single style.<br \/>\n I regarded this visit as being of great historical interest as I had seen<br \/>\n nothing of this type of Greek and Byzantine workmanship, but I did not expect<br \/>\n it to appeal to me artistically. Talk about being bowled over; the impact of<br \/>\n the view of the interior on entry was like a physical blow. Although I have<br \/>\n seen nothing of its type to equal it, it has left me ready to appreciate a<br \/>\n much wider artistic range of church interiors.<\/p>\n<p>I suppose the crowning glory in<br \/>\n terms of art must be the mighty mosaic of Christ &#8211; &#8216;mighty&#8217;<br \/>\n not used lightly here as the head and shoulders are a good sixty feet high! I<br \/>\n think, however that the ones that moved me once were those of most of the<br \/>\n best known Old Testament accounts which go all around just below the high<br \/>\n windows of the nave. Some real humour is very visible in the sections on the<br \/>\n Creation and Noah&#8217;s Ark. Lastly, on the subject of this cathedral, do<br \/>\n not on any account miss seeing the cloisters. I forget whether the entrance<br \/>\n is on the same wall as that to the cathedral or the wall to the right hand<br \/>\n side as you face it, but it is worth finding.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/enews_052004_orpmos.jpg\" alt=\"The Orpheus Mosaic\" border=\"0\" align=\"left\" class=\"pic\">There are some wonderful<br \/>\n mosaics elsewhere in Palermo as well. The church of La Martorana near the<br \/>\n centre has some of these and is probably one of the first things to see in<br \/>\n Palermo. However do not miss seeing the church next to it as well, the little<br \/>\n twelfth century chapel of San Cataldo. This is innocent of mosaics, very<br \/>\n plain in fact, but its very simplicity gives it a considerable appeal.<br \/>\n Strange to English eyes but rather appealing too, are the bright red domes of<br \/>\n the roof. I have more difficulty in writing about the Palazzo dei Normanni,<br \/>\n now the seat of Sicily&#8217;s autonomous government. Only a limited amount<br \/>\n can be visited here but this includes the Capella Palatina. Here there are mosaics<br \/>\n which should logically have something of the same effect as those at Monreale.<br \/>\n However for me, although I could appreciate the skill and artistry well<br \/>\n enough, they had no such impact. It was not anti-climax because I saw these<br \/>\n before going out to Monreale. In the Capella I was more fascinated by the<br \/>\n lovely Arabic ceiling. Whilst on the subject of churches I shall mention one<br \/>\n that is no longer consecrated but is a striking building. This is San<br \/>\n Giovanni degli Eremiti, not far from the Piazza del&#8217; Independenza and<br \/>\n the Norman palace. The twelfth century church was built on the remains of an<br \/>\n earlier mosque and it is very much an Arabic type of building, well worth a<br \/>\n visit, although its Christian style cloisters also call. The fact that the<br \/>\n garden is now quite wild seems to enhance rather than detract from the beauty<br \/>\n of the building.<\/p>\n<p>David was a keen walker,<br \/>\n particularly on mountains before he developed serious heart problems in 1995.<br \/>\n He has now adapted his holidays to what he is able to do and we are<br \/>\n presenting his account of 12 days in Sicily over this and the coming months.<br \/>\n Next two episodes: Palermo.<\/p>\n<p>Next episode &#8211; Palermo Part 2<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>All long-distance buses seem to have termini fairly near the Central Station [trains]. Outside this there is a massive square where most local buses start and from the other side&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","css_class_manager_body_classes":"","css_class_manager_use_in_post_loop":false},"categories":[2,3],"tags":[54],"class_list":["post-1610","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-archive","category-main-article","tag-may-2004"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Sicily: Palermo, Part 1 by David Cross - eNewsletter<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/sicily-palermo-part-1-by-david-cross.html\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Sicily: Palermo, Part 1 by David Cross - eNewsletter\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"All long-distance buses seem to have termini fairly near the Central Station [trains]. 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