{"id":1494,"date":"2004-01-27T23:00:00","date_gmt":"2004-01-27T23:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/2004\/01\/27\/february-2001-sicily-by-davidsiracusa\/"},"modified":"2018-01-02T16:42:49","modified_gmt":"2018-01-02T16:42:49","slug":"february-2001-sicily-by-davidsiracusa","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/february-2001-sicily-by-davidsiracusa.html","title":{"rendered":"February 2001 &#8211; Sicily by David\n\nSiracusa"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>The latter part of the flight over was terrific, with<br \/>\nsnow on the Gran Sasso first and then, towards the end,<br \/>\nthere was the fabulous spectacle of the Aeolian Islands<br \/>\nwith Stromboli puffing away. Etna, on Sicily itself, was<br \/>\npuffing a bit but nothing to suggest the major eruption it<br \/>\nhad the next winter. We flew past it and into Catania.<\/p>\n<p>I was pleased to find that I could get a bus direct from<br \/>\nthe airport to Siracusa without going into Catania and only<br \/>\nhad about fifty minutes to wait with a view of Etna to<br \/>\nwhile away the time. More of the Sicilian coast than I had<br \/>\nexpected was spoilt by industry and far less by tourism and<br \/>\nto be honest I did not particularly enjoy the bus journey<br \/>\nto Siracusa. Fortunately it was only about an hour. I had<br \/>\nbooked for the first two nights at the Bel-Sit and I had<br \/>\nseen where it was on the small map in the Rough Guide.<br \/>\nWould I be able to recognise it on the ground though and<br \/>\nsave time going to the terminus and back? I was quite proud<br \/>\nof myself as I alighted from the coach, got out my case,<br \/>\nhelped an attractive woman out with hers and watched the<br \/>\nbus leave. My pride lasted all of twenty-three seconds<br \/>\nuntil I discovered that the case was not mine! Somehow my<br \/>\nItalian came up to telling the woman I had helped what had<br \/>\nhappened and I was given a lift in the car picking her up<br \/>\nto pursue the bus. Strangely the conversation with the<br \/>\nwoman driver was in the neutral language of Spanish! There<br \/>\nat its terminus was the bus and there, outside it were my<br \/>\ncase, some very crestfallen passengers who had of course<br \/>\nlost theirs, the driver who looked as though he would<br \/>\nrather be somewhere else &#8211; anywhere else in fact &#8211; and the<br \/>\ninevitable police inspector. Great was the jubilation, as<br \/>\nG.F. Handel said! This ended very well for me with a lift<br \/>\nback up the hill and the first woman escorting me &#8211; and<br \/>\ncarrying my case &#8211; to the Bel-Sit; a bit more than I had<br \/>\ndeserved perhaps!<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/200312-syracuse-greek-theatre.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"250\" height=\"159\" align=\"right\" class=\"pic\" \/> Two areas demand to be visited. These are the old<br \/>\npart of the city at Ortygia, where the bus terminus was,<br \/>\nand the Parco Archeol&oacute;gico. I went down to Ortygia that<br \/>\nsame evening, just too late for the tourist office opening<br \/>\ntimes, and enjoyed a brief stroll round and a good pizza.<br \/>\nIt was quite good enough to call me back the next morning<br \/>\nbut, other than getting the map and literature I wanted<br \/>\nfrom the tourist office, I was just a shade disappointed.<br \/>\nOrtygia is near enough an island and not a very big one; I<br \/>\nhad not realised that the point, which should have given a<br \/>\ngood sea view, was out of bounds to visitors because of the<br \/>\nrequirements of the army. In general the area should<br \/>\nprobably be regarded as a must see by anyone who has not<br \/>\nbeen to any of the beautiful old towns on the Italian<br \/>\nmainland but, unusually, I was as much struck by the<br \/>\ndisplayed poverty of some areas as anything. The cathedral<br \/>\nis very interesting, though scarcely beautiful, from the<br \/>\noutside with bits being part of an earlier Greek temple.<br \/>\nHowever, contrary to my usual view in southern Europe, the<br \/>\ninterior, which contains some strikingly beautiful columns,<br \/>\nprovides a better spectacle. Taken as a whole I preferred<br \/>\nOrtygia at night and the jury was still out on Siracusa as<br \/>\nI took a bus and then a walk to the entrance to the Parco<br \/>\nArcheol&oacute;gico.<\/p>\n<p>The jury did not stay out long, however. This is<br \/>\nterrific and, for a person like me who has never been to<br \/>\nGreece, it was truly magic. I do not mean to belittle the<br \/>\nsights in Sicily by saying this. The Greek remains in<br \/>\nSicily are regarded by experts as being of top order. I did<br \/>\nclassics in the sixth form and I well remember the<br \/>\ncampaigns of Athens and Sparta and the importance of Sicily<br \/>\nin general and Siracusa in particular, in the Peloponnesian<br \/>\nWar. The splendid and vast Greek theatre here dates back to<br \/>\nthe fifth century BC and I found it quite spellbinding.<br \/>\nNear it were the old Latomie del Paradiso, quarries and<br \/>\nlater the prison for Athenian prisoners of war. Paradise<br \/>\nindeed? Even in February the heat would have suggested a<br \/>\nvery different theological area, particularly for those who<br \/>\nhad to work in the quarries. Particularly outstanding in<br \/>\nthe view is the Orecchio di Dionissio [ear of Dionysus,] a<br \/>\nlarge cavern well up the cliff. Not far away is the Roman<br \/>\nAmphitheatre, which became so much used for blood sports<br \/>\nthat another smaller one had to be built back in the town<br \/>\nfor drama.<\/p>\n<p>Siracusa would have repaid a longer visit.<\/p>\n<p>David Cross was a keen walker, particularly on mountains<br \/>\nbefore he developed serious heart problems in 1995. He has<br \/>\nnow adapted his holidays to what he is able to do and we<br \/>\nare presenting his account of 12 days in Sicily over this<br \/>\nand the coming months. Next episode &#8211; Agrigento<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The latter part of the flight over was terrific, with snow on the Gran Sasso first and then, towards the end, there was the fabulous spectacle of the Aeolian Islands&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","css_class_manager_body_classes":"","css_class_manager_use_in_post_loop":false},"categories":[2,3],"tags":[34],"class_list":["post-1494","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-archive","category-main-article","tag-january-2004"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>February 2001 - Sicily by David Siracusa - eNewsletter<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/february-2001-sicily-by-davidsiracusa.html\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"February 2001 - Sicily by David Siracusa - eNewsletter\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"The latter part of the flight over was terrific, with snow on the Gran Sasso first and then, towards the end, there was the fabulous spectacle of the Aeolian Islands...\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/february-2001-sicily-by-davidsiracusa.html\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"eNewsletter\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2004-01-27T23:00:00+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2018-01-02T16:42:49+00:00\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"The Beetle\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"The Beetle\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"4 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/globetrotters.co.uk\\\/newsletter\\\/february-2001-sicily-by-davidsiracusa.html#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/globetrotters.co.uk\\\/newsletter\\\/february-2001-sicily-by-davidsiracusa.html\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"The Beetle\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/globetrotters.co.uk\\\/newsletter\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/d88d8d26b7a5eee19d4a82efb44decf5\"},\"headline\":\"February 2001 &#8211; 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