{"id":1352,"date":"2004-04-27T22:00:00","date_gmt":"2004-04-27T22:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/2004\/04\/27\/sicily-caltabellotta-and-selinunte-by-david-cross\/"},"modified":"2015-06-15T18:48:05","modified_gmt":"2015-06-15T18:48:05","slug":"sicily-caltabellotta-and-selinunte-by-david-cross","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/sicily-caltabellotta-and-selinunte-by-david-cross.html","title":{"rendered":"Sicily: Caltabellotta and Selinunte by\n David Cross"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>\n <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/enews_042004-calt-1.jpg\" alt=\"Caltabellotta\" class=\"c5\" align=\"left\" hspace=\"5\" vspace=\"5\" \/>Sciacca is not really on the tourist trail<br \/>\n although it is extremely pleasant and some of the upper town is<br \/>\n really picturesque. There is no really cheap place to stay, though<br \/>\n the Paloma Bianca in Via Figuli was not really dear. The main<br \/>\n appeal of Sciacca for me is the fact that it is an ideal place for<br \/>\n an excellent bus trip to the hill village of Caltabellotta. Sicily<br \/>\n has so much to see [I missed the lovely west coast and most of the<br \/>\n interior, including a terrific Roman villa] that I suspect a lot of<br \/>\n people never make it to any of the smaller towns. Even though I<br \/>\n obviously saw them at the cost of some better known larger places,<br \/>\n Erice in particular, I feel that it is a pity not to sample some<br \/>\n and this is a beaut. From my knowledge of Sicilian hill villages I<br \/>\n would say that somehow they are less picturesque from a distance<br \/>\n but quite as good when inside them as those of the mainland. On the<br \/>\n ride to Caltabellotta it is going up high, rather than heading for<br \/>\n the village, which gives the pleasure and you need to be well up in<br \/>\n the village to see it at its best.\n <\/p>\n<p>\n Having said that, once you go up from the bus terminus to the very<br \/>\n top, you will certainly want to find ways to other parts of the<br \/>\n crest. In one place you can go through a tunnel to see the<br \/>\n magnificent view from the other side &#8211; if you are fully fit you<br \/>\n could actually get this from the castle. The wind that hit me from<br \/>\n the other side as I came out made it feel about fifteen degrees<br \/>\n lower temperature. No doubt this is a considerable exaggeration but<br \/>\n it was a great feeling in the reverse direction! Here there are two<br \/>\n fine churches just below vast rock outcrops, one Norman and one<br \/>\n Gothic. I use &#8216;Norman&#8217;, rather than &#8216;Romanesque,&#8217; as a descriptor<br \/>\n because the Normans did actually get to and settle on Sicily,<br \/>\n unlikely as that may sound. I really go for rooftop views as well<br \/>\n and the town below looks far more stunning to me from up here than<br \/>\n from below.\n <\/p>\n<p>\n <img decoding=\"async\" align=\"right\" vspace=\"5\" hspace=\"5\" class=\"c6\" alt=\"Caltabellotta\" src=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/enews_042004-calt-2.jpg\" \/><br \/>\n This was only my fifth night out of eleven but already lack of time<br \/>\n was forcing me to adjust my plans. I had meant to go right around<br \/>\n the island anti-clockwise and hopefully to do a trip into the Villa<br \/>\n Imperiale inland. I now realised this was far too much to take on<br \/>\n and I abandoned any notion of reaching the west coast or Segesta, a<br \/>\n spectacular site to the west of the island&#8217;s capital, Palermo. This<br \/>\n meant cutting from the south coast to the north at Palermo itself.<br \/>\n I decided on one further southern escapade first &#8211; a trip to the<br \/>\n ancient Greek settlement of Selinunte It was necessary to change at<br \/>\n Castelvetrano from the bus bound for Tr&aacute;pani to the local minibus<br \/>\n to Selinunte and the modern village of Marinellla which is little<br \/>\n more than the accommodation for those going to see Selinunte. It<br \/>\n turned out that the wait in this rather ordinary place<br \/>\n [Castelvetrano] was going to be over an hour and a half, and then<br \/>\n when the bus was quarter of an hour late.\n <\/p>\n<p>\n This afternoon was well up to the standards of the very best parts<br \/>\n of my trip. Not only was the sun shining warmly from a blue sky but<br \/>\n the spring flowers were blossoming in profusion all over the site<br \/>\n and beyond. The site itself is terrific &#8211; as good a set of Greek<br \/>\n remains as that at Agrigento to my mind and I felt that to have<br \/>\n missed it would have been unpardonable. There are three areas of<br \/>\n particular importance: the eastern temples, the Acropolis area and,<br \/>\n some distance away, the Necropolis. I concentrated on the first<br \/>\n two. This in itself covered a considerable area and involved<br \/>\n several kilometres of walking but I am sure the number of people I<br \/>\n saw was not as many as eighteen.\n <\/p>\n<p>\n <img decoding=\"async\" align=\"left\" vspace=\"5\" hspace=\"5\" class=\"c7\" alt=\"Selinunte\" src=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/pictures\/enews_042004-sel.jpg\" \/><br \/>\n The eastern temples were mainly erected in the sixth century BC and<br \/>\n one of them, Temple E as it rather prosaically named, was<br \/>\n reconstructed in the 1950s. Apparently this was and is<br \/>\n controversial but I feel no qualms about it as long as some are<br \/>\n left as they are found. Whatever, it is a magnificent building and<br \/>\n I am sure a full size re-construction must be the best way of<br \/>\n illustrating to children what these temples were like. The<br \/>\n Acropolis area contains another five temples and most of the<br \/>\n ancient living area as well as the remains of the great walls.<br \/>\n These walls, however, are older than the rest of the remains,<br \/>\n having been built after the city had been destroyed once by<br \/>\n Carthage in order to defend the high ground from further<br \/>\n destructions.\n <\/p>\n<p>\n David was a keen walker, particularly on mountains before he<br \/>\n developed serious heart problems in 1995. He has now adapted his<br \/>\n holidays to what he is able to do and we are presenting his account<br \/>\n of 12 days in Sicily over this and the coming months. Next two<br \/>\n episodes: Palermo.\n <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Sciacca is not really on the tourist trail although it is extremely pleasant and some of the upper town is really picturesque. There is no really cheap place to stay,&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","css_class_manager_body_classes":"","css_class_manager_use_in_post_loop":false},"categories":[2,3],"tags":[16],"class_list":["post-1352","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-archive","category-main-article","tag-april-2004"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Sicily: Caltabellotta and Selinunte by David Cross - eNewsletter<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/sicily-caltabellotta-and-selinunte-by-david-cross.html\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Sicily: Caltabellotta and Selinunte by David Cross - eNewsletter\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Sciacca is not really on the tourist trail although it is extremely pleasant and some of the upper town is really picturesque. 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