Mtwara (pop:approx.100,000) is the nearest town to Mikindani, in South
\neastern Tanzania. It is the administrative centre of the region, was the
\nsouthern ‘capital’ in Colonial times and serves as the springboard
\nfor travel south into Mozambique. It can be reached by air from Dar es Salaam
\nto Mtwara’s own airport, by sea from Dar es Salaam on the MV Santorini or
\nby road from north, south and west. The approach to Mtwara from Mikindani
\nundulates along a stretch of rural country that eventually goes up a long
\ngradual hill. Along the metalled road are the saltpans, and behind them on the
\nright hand side is a large coconut plantation. Just before the hill begins is
\nthe turning off to the right, which takes you to the airport, and the road to
\nthe Ruvuma River & Mozambique border.<\/p>\n
As the road goes up the hill towards Mtwara it runs along an escarpment
\n– great view over the countryside from there – and comes to a
\nroundabout with a monument to the Mwenge or National Torch. If you turn left
\nyou approach Ligula Hospital, built with British money in the early 1960s
\n– turn right and it takes you to the market area (more of that later).
\nStraight on and on the right you pass a large open area called the Showground,
\nwhich seems to be both the local militia training ground and the HGV driving
\nschool site. Both activities have been seen there – the militia several
\ntimes per week. A rag taggle lot of men, women and some no more that children
\nbut given a panga each, they would probably not be good to meet! I think that
\nbasic training started at about two months ago and they have progressed to the
\nslow march – they seem to spend a lot of time on that activity. The whole
\nplatoon was seen setting off to jog down the main road towards Mikindani
\n– some had dropped out by the time they reached the roundabout! At
\nthis point the road goes down a long straight dusty hill with acacia trees
\neither side plus an occasional mango tree, and occasional office buildings such
\nas the Tanzanian Revenue Authority, the local government departments, the Air
\nTanzania local office and Tanesco offices. 2 storeys seems to be the maximum
\nhere so nothing too big.<\/p>\n
If you continue to the end you come to a T-junction. Opposite is the
\nCatholic church we went to for Joyce’s wedding, turn right and it takes
\nyou to the Port from where the MV Santorini departs to Dar es Salaam –
\nturn left and you get to Shangani – the up market part of the town where
\nthe wealthy residents live and many of the NGO’s have their offices there
\ntoo. Shangani also boasts a good swimming beach. But before you get that far
\nthere are several streets on either side – none of which have good
\nsurfaces. Immediately any expected notion of being in a regional capital is
\ndashed. One is supposed to be a metal road but the surface is dreadful, and
\nthere are 3 of the most vicious ‘sleeping policemen’ you could ever
\nimagine. The rest are just mud\/sand\/dust road surfaces (depending on the
\nseason). Driving along the main shopping street feels more like being at sea it
\nis so undulating both backwards and forwards and side to side! Nothing at all
\nis spent on roads. Mtwara is in 2 parts really – the older part being
\naround the tiny Aga Khan Park, mostly built in the 1950’s &
\n60’s. <\/p>\n
The main shopping street in the Aga Khan Park area is mostly Indian shops
\n– with strings of (very old and dry) mango leaves strung across the door
\nfor good luck. There is the ‘off licence’, the shop where all the
\nLandrover spares come from that also sells hardware and bottled gas, there is
\nanother shop that sells all sorts of imported food Cornflakes, Alpen, Heinz
\ntomato ketchup etc. <\/p>\n
A little further on, in the Chiko Ngola area, is the market and the Bus
\nstation. Just before you turn into the main street that leads to the
\nmarket there is a crossroads. On one corner there is a huge Coca Cola bottle,
\nwhich marks a drinks kiosk! On the opposite corner there is a patch of open
\nground in front of the Mtwara football ground. On this patch of ground the
\ncashew nut co-operative hangs out – waiting for buyers to approach them.
\nThe nuts are sold in 1 kg or ½ kg packs. It is worth pulling up the
\nLandrover on the corner just to see the sight of the most competitive
\nco-operative saleswomen – they are really aggressive and rush over
\nthrusting packs of nuts into the window of the vehicle and pushing each other
\nout of the way! So much for being a co-operative! <\/p>\n
Another feature of Mtwara, in common with many towns and villages throughout
\nTanzania, is the imaginative use of old shipping containers. These are
\nconverted into shops, offices, hairdressing salons and bars. They are fitted
\nout with electricity and some are painted with a brick effect design on the
\nfront. Mtwara reminds me a little of an American West town, sort of
\nneglected, dusty and rather chaotic. The fuel station that we use is on one of
\nthe worst roads – and each time I have been there I have to wait for
\nherds of cattle to be driven along the road before I can leave! It looks just
\nlike an American cattle drive! On one occasion there was also a flock of Guinea
\nfowl wandering along the road. You are likely to find very free ranging
\nchickens, goats and cattle wandering around all the streets – with no
\napparent ownership. It has been known to meet any of these in the Bank car
\npark.<\/p>\n
One of the guide books refers to an ‘endearingly time-warped
\natmosphere’. This Mtwara certainly has despite it trying to portray an
\nair of activity and modern commercialism. There is something very appealing
\nabout it!<\/p>\n