{"id":1188,"date":"2003-11-27T23:00:00","date_gmt":"2003-11-27T23:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/2003\/11\/27\/stuarts-guide-to-angkor-wat\/"},"modified":"2003-11-27T23:00:00","modified_gmt":"2003-11-27T23:00:00","slug":"stuarts-guide-to-angkor-wat","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/globetrotters.co.uk\/newsletter\/stuarts-guide-to-angkor-wat.html","title":{"rendered":"Stuart’s Guide to Angkor Wat"},"content":{"rendered":"

Former Globetrotters Committee member Stuart was recently based in Cambodia
\nwhilst working for Voluntary Services Overseas. In this article, he gives
\nus the benefit of his experience and tells us his top tips.<\/p>\n

Transport<\/p>\n

Tuk tuk (seats 2) – $8 a day (sunrise to sunset) for the central temples
\n(Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm), $15 to go to Banteay Srei, they may want
\nand extra $1 to go to Neak Pean but this is a bit cheeky.<\/p>\n

I recommend Kinal as a driver – very gentle person, speaks a bit of
\nEnglish, drives slowly and carefully, has a nice new tuk-tuk. Tel: 012 909
\n730.<\/p>\n

Alternative is to go by moto for about $5-8.<\/p>\n

There are 2 boat options – new Japanese boat or old boat. The new one
\nhas just started and they had a promo deal on for July and Aug of $30 o\/w but
\nthe normal price is $55, which is comparable to flying. It’s about the
\nsame time as the old boat. Guesthouses in Siem Reap can arrange tickets. It has
\nan air-con downstairs with nice seats, free meal and drinks, normal volume
\nfilms and a covered deck with chairs. They also pick you up and take you
\nto\/from the boat at both ends. Additional perks include life jackets and
\nlifeboats, which are not to be found on the old boats.<\/p>\n

The old boats are normally $25 o\/w but they dropped their prices to $10-15
\nin the face of competition from the new one but they may well go back up again
\nonce the promo period is over. Old boats all seem to be quite similar –
\n“bullet boats” or “express boats” or “rambo
\nboats”. Basically a metal cylinder with cramped air-conned interior and
\nVERY loud videos (Khmer comedy or kung fu – bring ear plugs). Trick is to
\nget a seat away from a speaker and not too close to the back (engine noise and
\nindustrial strength aircon). Probably not for claustrophobics as the only 2
\ndoors are small and what would happen in the event of an accident doesn’t
\nbear thinking about.<\/p>\n

Alternatively, sit on the roof – take plenty of sun cream, water and a
\nscarf (2-3000 riel for a kroma – checked Khmer scarf, from any market) to
\ncover body parts that will get roasted\/soaked regardless. Once the thing gets
\ngoing it is very fast and exposed. There is no barrier at the outside edge of
\nthe boat, only a ledge to walk along and a rail at shoulder height to hold
\nonto, so if you need to go to the loo (inside) during the 5-6 hour trip (cf.
\ndrinking lots of water tip above) then don’t fall in on the way as they
\nprobably won’t stop to pick you up. Put valuables in plastic bags to
\navoid them being drenched.<\/p>\n

However, if you want to take photos then the roof is the place to be. There
\nis a Vietnamese floating village just at the Siem Reap boat boarding place
\nwhich is very photogenic. Once in the lake itself the scenery is not great as
\nthe banks are far away. The stretch from Kompong Chhnang to PP is scenic as the
\nbanks are close and there are lots of other boats fishing etc.<\/p>\n

Food & Accom<\/p>\n

I haven’t tried too many places but can recommend Soup Dragon (run by
\nan ex-VSO) and Blue Pumpkin (also does good bakery things). Watch the
\nrestaurants near the temples – they’re much more expensive than
\nelsewhere (as are the drinks stands – buy in Siem Reap and leave them in
\nthe tuk-tuk). I’m not sure but I think some places have 2 menus
\n– one for foreigners and the other for locals. The alternative is
\nto stock up on picnic things in Siem Reap.<\/p>\n

Top tip: you can swim in the very nice pool at the Angkor Village Hotel for
\nfree – just be discrete about it.<\/p>\n

There are loads of places to stay in all price ranges. We stayed at the
\nGreen Garden Home guest house, which is a little out of the centre i.e. a 5-10
\nmin walk to the market. Quiet garden setting with rooms from $10-25.<\/p>\n

Shopping<\/p>\n

Don’t bother buying souvenirs here as they’re much cheaper and
\nbetter quality\/selection in Phnom Penh. One thing you might want to get
\nis the Angkor guide book by Dawn Rooney which gives you the detailed low down
\non each temple. $2-5 for a photocopied version, available everywhere.
\nThere are also 2 little visitors’ guides available in guesthouses which
\nhave up-to-date maps and listings.<\/p>\n

Temples<\/p>\n

This year the Government has introduced photo passes – you get taken
\ninto a little room and have your picture taken (free – or you can take a
\nphoto along if you prefer\/have one to hand) for putting on your pass. $20 for 1
\nday; $40 for 2-3; $60 for 4-7. 3 days is nice and not rushed at all, you
\nprobably need 2 minimum if you want to get to Banteay Srei\/not hang around; it
\nprobably is possible to cover most of the main sights in a day if you happen to
\nbe Japanese. Reserve one of your days for a sunrise\/set visit –
\nrecommended.<\/p>\n

There are loads of temples to see and they’re spread over a huge area
\nbut recommendations are:<\/p>\n