You want to go to – Libya

Libya, sandwiched between Tunisia to the north west, Algeria to the west, Egypt to the east and Niger and Chad to the south is little visited but has a great deal to offer to the traveller: Roman and Greek remains of Leptis Magna and Cyrene, the Sahara desert, Berber fortresses, oases, prehistoric cave paintings, mountains and old towns. To obtain a visa, you must have an invitation from a Libyan which is sent to the Libyan embassy in your country; a travel agent in Libya can usually arrange this. Americans are allowed to enter Libya, but if you have an Israeli stamp in your passport, you will not be granted a visa. Alitalia, Lufthansa, British Airways, Austrian and AirMalta all fly direct to Tripoli. Alternatively, it is possible to take a boat from Malta to Tripoli or fly in to Djerba in neighbouring Tunisia, to the west, and take a shared taxi across the border. Most visitors take the latter routing as it is cheaper.

Arabic is the official language in Libya, but some people in shops and markets speak English and Italian. French is spoken predominantly in the southern regions. If travelling independently, you will be able to get around by shared taxi, which is the usual form of transport. Because of the vast desert in Libya, most places of interest are along the Mediterranean strip or at the edges of the desert. Libya is far richer than its neighbours and has invested in good infrastructure, including roads. The standard of living is comparatively high and the cost of hotels reflects this. It is possible to fly to some of the more distant places. Private tour groups are taken around by private four wheel drive. This trip will take in the best Libya has to offer and can be done either independently or as part of an organised tour.

Arrive at Tripoli, the capital of Libya. The old town dates back to the 4th century: wander around the souk, visit the promenade along the Mediterranean – there are beaches at Tripoli, and get acquainted etc. Spend the night and on Day 2, head west first to Sabratha, 75km west of Tripoli, founded in 9 BC by the Phoenicians and later taken over by the Romans. Sites to see include a fabulously in tact amphitheatre and the temple of Isis, public baths, temples, fountains, mosaics. The museum is a must, and has an extensive exhibition of everything from statues to small coins. There are also some beaches!

Continue on to Leptis Magna, on the Mediterranean coast, about 120km east of Tripoli, a little over an hour's drive from Tripoli. Leptis Magna has the reputation of having the most complete and impressive Roman ruins in all of North Africa. It was originally a Berber settlement until the Phoenicians made it into a trading point and then it became part of the Roman empire in 111 BC. Sites to see include: a preserved amphitheatre, triumphal arches, a market area, an imperial area etc. Stay the night.

On day 3, head for Benghazi east of Tripoli. Benghazi is Libya's second largest city. Visit the museums containing Greek and Phoenician remains. On day 4, head for the ancient Greek town of Cyrene, where you can see excavated Greek remains. Cyrene now called Shah'at was founded in 631 B.C. and became the most important Greek city in North Africa. It was later occupied by the Romans and reached its height under Emperor Augustus. Next go on to neighbouring Appolonia, named after the God, Apollo. The Mediterranean harbour has an acropolis on one of its hills, a theatre, a famous church, baths, old city walls etc. Return to Tripoli to stay the night before heading south to visit the Sahara, troglodyte caves, mountains and oases.

Day 5, head for Jabal Nafuosa where you can see the fortress towns of the Berbers. These are situated between 80 km to 350km south of Tripoli and are on the edge of the Nafuosa Mountains. En route, you can stop at Gharyan, about 100 km south of Tripoli where you can see troglodyte dwellings dug vertically down into the ground. You will have to stay over night in one of these towns and continue on to Ghadames 650km south-west of Tripoli. Ghadames is a beautiful town and a UNESCO World Heritage site. You can visit the sand dunes of the Sahara, take camel rides, and see folk law shows by both the people of Ghadames and also the nomadic Tuareg.

On day 6, continue much further south, to Ghat in the middle of the Sahara, close to the Algerian border. It is an old town close to massive sand dunes of the Sahara – which if you have never seen them before are pretty impressive. From here, one can continue to the Akakus Mountains to see 10,000 year prehistoric cave and rock paintings of elephants, giraffes, rhinoceroses, ostriches and crocodiles. Accommodation this far south, is basic and usually involves in sleeping in tents. It is not possible to visit the Akakus Mountains alone, you will have to take a guide or join an excursion as it is very easy to get lost. The usual trip is about 200 km and runs in a half circle, starting south of Ghat, and ending more than 100 km north of Ghat. The Libyan tourism agency says that on doing this trip, you should realise that you are visiting an area less visited than the South Pole! On day 7 return to Tripoli.