Western Samoa.

David Cooksley.

Stepping off the plane at Faleolo Airport, 24 hours after departing north-eastern British Columbia, with patches of snow still on the ground.

The first thing one notices is the heat and humidity.
The second is the smiling faces and relaxing manner of the Samoans. Samoa consists of two main islands, Upolu and Savai’i .

The people are very conservative, most live in villages along the seashore, and they have an interesting social society. The economy is hurting, as the world copra market has declined. Our foreign currency goes a long way.

The exchange rate was $1 Canadian = $1.85 Tala. I found everything very inexpensive, especially transportation and beer. Accommodation is best at private village fales at various areas along the coast. Ask other travellers at the tourist office in Apia about their location.

After arriving in Samoa change money at the airport bank (there are few banks outside Apia and the airport), walk out to the highway and flag the first bus heading towards the wharf it’s not far - and catch the ferry (1½ hours) to the island of Savai’i.

Savai’I is much larger than Upolu. Few people visit here. It’s an island of magnificent scenery and sparsely populated. The 200km round-the-island road is basically smooth, perfect for mountain bikes. It’s an island that requires a lot of time, especially due to the infrequent transport. Always hitch while waiting for the bus.

The ferry stops at Salelolga wharf on Savai'i. Catch a bus heading up the west coast to the village of Satuitua. Here fales can be rented for 12 Tala. Meals can be arranged. There is a nice beach and a shop where a litre of ice-cold beer is only 3.20 Tala.

Continuing around the Northwest corner of Savai’I requires good hitching. Some beautiful beaches here- Your best bet is to ask the locals you meet along the way about accommodation in their area, otherwise proceed to the north side of the island, to Stevensons Hotel at the village of Manse.

You can pitch a tent, rent a fale, or stay in the hotel. Meals are available in the hotel restaurant. Heading down the cast coast is Siufaga Beach House, near Tuasivi, on another excellent beach. Clean and well managed camping is 10 Tala. or rent a self-contained fale for 90 to 100 Tala. From here it’s only an hour to the ferry back to Upolu.

Upola is the most populated and developed island. Apia, the capital, has nothing special to offer, except the large market by the bus station. A lot of back-packers stay at Olivia Yandall’s Accommodation, 15 Tala. Per person. The bus stops right in front of Olivia’s going to Lalomanu, via the scenic Northeast coast road. Lalomanu has a long beautiful beach, with several fales to rent Cost was 25 Tala. a person including three meals. The local shop sells cold drinks, biscuits, etc. Lots of travellers end up here. Continuing along the south coast, fales are found at Aufunga, at the base of a huge cliff. Also at the village of Salani. All provide meals.

The south coastal road continues back to the north side of Upolu, almost to the airport. A good place to stay near the airport is Satapuala Beach Resort Camping is only 5 Tala. Excellent meals and two fales are available for 15 Tala. If you arrive late at night just set your tent up. It’s an east 1 ½ km walk or hitch from the airport. The manager, Teri, is very helpful and like most Samoans is always smiling.

Niue.

Niue is located in the centre of a triangle bounded by the Cook Islands, Tonga and the Samoas. It is a large, uplifted coral island, 260-sq. Km. Niue is a self-governing state administered by New Zealand. This island is off the tourist and backpacker track. It is easily accessible from Auckland, Apia, Pago and Rarotonga.

Niue does not have long sandy beaches, but high, 15 metre cliffs surrounding the island which contain magnificent chasms and caves, rock pools and rocky outcrops. These are all natural swimming pools, some with fresh water, others fresh and salt water. There are many sandy caves to be found off the road, through the forest and down a track.

These small 2-4m coral sand beaches will be yours alone. The ocean water is incredibly crystal clear. The climate is cooler and dryer than Samoa. Niue is also upscale in prosperity compared to other Polynesian islands, as reflected in the prices here. Most people have small trucks or cars, which make the hitching very easy. Niueans are very honest and friendly. As they pass by, they always wave.

Several guesthouses, small motels and a hotel offer accommodation. I would recommend Koloi Guest House. Clean, quiet, fully equipped house, cost 35 New Zealand dollar for a double. Purchase food at the shop in Alofi, the one and only main centre. For travellers who are scuba divers, this is the place to dive due to the clear water.

There is a diving operation which rents equipment, $3 5 NZ a boat dive, or if you have your own equipment it’s only $10 NZ a shore dive or $25 NZ a boat dive. We had no problem hitching up and down the west coast with our dive gear plus tanks. Don’t worry about leaving things unattended while you’re in the water - nobody will touch them.

The road around the island is 64 Km. The eastern and southern coasts require transport since there is very little traffic to hitch. We rented an 80cc scooter for the day, $18 NZ, seeing all the major caves, walking tracks, reef walking, etc. in this area. The villages on the east side have only a few inhabitants. House after house, schools, churches, other buildings, all stand empty. The rest of the island can be explored by bicycle, hitching and walking.

At the weekend there is always a sporting event, barbecue or dance to attend. You will make lots of friends visiting Niue.

David Cooksley.

Globe September October 1994 vol. 42 No 5